[pdwestman]

In pic #1, the second ring (final oil scraper) seems to be 'shinier' on the top half than the bottom half.
Are the identifying markings on the side facing Down?
Or are they facing UP as they are supposed to be?

That second ring is sharpened like a scissor blade/lawn mower blade to scrap-off any oil that sneaks past the oil rings.
If installed up-side down it becomes an 'oil pump' into the combustion chamber.

 

[pdwestman]

I agree, new oil rings, and valve guides.

NEW RING SET & a light hone job to facilitate 'break-in' of those rings.

 

[pdwestman]

A quick question - should I get the sleeve measured to see if it's still round, or is this a waste of time as it's very unlikely?

A proper machine shop could measure the bore with a dial bore gauge to check for clearance, roundness & taper & then a light hone all at the same time.

 

[pdwestman]

A proper machine shop could measure the bore with a dial bore gauge to check for clearance, roundness & taper & then a light hone all at the same time.

I recon that you didn't read post #20.

 

[pdwestman]

Saw that. Would I need to take in the piston, and the boring instructions as supplied with the 685 kit?

I personally would NOT dismount the JE/Schnitz piston. Very stiff/obnoxious pin clips which should NOT be re-used.

If the cylinder bore has less that .004inch of Extra bore Diameter than Schnitz instructions suggested bore size I'd re-ring it and ride it. I'll bet that it has less than .002inches of extra clearance.
You can still see the hone pattern, correct?

 

[pdwestman]

Tom Schmitz tells/told us that this piston from his personal bike was still RUNNING quite well.

Post Page

www.souperdoo.com

Again I'll suggest a light hone & new Rings. Eagle Mike also sells the Thermo-Bob, if you so desire or afford a little extra expense.

 

[pdwestman]

So really I'm stuck with a 685 oil burner, or I get a new sleeve. Or maybe I get it bored again and it won't warp any further?

Not yet!
I'll suggest that you have someone re-measure your cylinder, just to be sure.

If it is actually worn that much, you can still install the EM 692cc kit in any 1996+ cylinder.

 

[pdwestman]

Not yet!
I'll suggest that you have someone (else) re-measure your cylinder, just to be sure.

These guys are doing more to confuse you than help you at this point.

Biggs3118,
I'm trying my best to not add any confusion.

Second, did you replace you valve stem seals? Given your explanation that's what it sounds like to me based on experience. I believe EM sells some 'viton' seals. I'd highly recommend those over the OEM pieces.

Biggs3118,
I tend to agree with you, looking at the total lack of oily carbon build-up on the piston crown.
Possibly over-heated/hardened exhaust valve guide seals allowing what little oil is on the stems to drool into the exhaust port during cool down. Then burning off during initial start-up.

I put a 685 kit in my pig about 35,000km ago, and since day one it burned a bit of oil. Now it's burning quite a lot of oil, big puffs at startup, and when revving.

KDO,
We haven't asked, "How much oil does it actually consume per 1000km"? What brand & grade of oil do you use?

 

[pdwestman]

As I understand it, there's a pop test where you put you finger over the valve seal when removing the value, and listen for the pop.

I believe that your finger will seal on top of the valve seal better than a hardened seal lip will seal on a valve stem.

I would rather feel for 'traction' of the seal lips on the stems. Especially feeling for the difference in grip between old & new valve seals.

 

[pdwestman]

Best to make that inquiry with a competent machine shop in your area. Preferably one involved in high performance racing. There is a reason they are called 'Precision Hones'. But they still require a competent operator.

The thicker sleeve requires clearanceing of the interior of the water jacket to allow enough volume around the jacket and then boring/honing to fit the pistons exact clearance specs.

 

[pdwestman]

I think the issue is the bore being out of round though, it's 7 thou out at the bottom (too narrow). 4.6 thou where the rings get to.

I can not fathom that the piston even fits into the cylinder if the bore is .007 inches to small from side to side.

The front to back piston to cylinder clearance has a normal maximum of .0028 inches of clearance.
Can you turn your piston sideways and insert it into the cylinder bore (without the rings on it)?
Then one can use simple feeler gauges to measure the piston Skirt to cylinder clearance at many different points inside the cylinder bore.
Not quite as accurate as a Good Dial Bore Gauge, but pretty darn close!

 

[pdwestman]

I'll suggest 1 five minute test start/run/cool down to check for coolant or oil leaks and then go ride it.
Accelerate 'briskly', even full throttle, but SHIFT at about 4000 rpm. This 'Loads' the rings to facilitate 'break-in'.
Run it up to 4000rpm in what ever gear the law allows, slow back down, repeat at least 8-10 times.

 

[pdwestman]

It's not pinched, the rubber has gone hard. Last time I used some sealant on it but didn't this time and it's dribbling out oil from quite a few spots. $88 here for a new gasket. Rip off!

I had to replace my old, hardened, leaking 1987 valve cover gasket at about 69,000 miles.

I quit using ANY sealant on good KLR valve cover gaskets a Long Time Ago.
The DZR/KLX400's always need sealant.
I learned that in 2003-2006, the years Suzuki & Kawasaki were trading product.