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Discussion Starter #1
Im wondering with the 705 kit ,pipe can and updated cams this boosts the klr to nearly 50 rwhp. That's almost the same as a heavier versys or vstrom at rear. Think those bikes mid 60 flywheel. So with my weight 195 I should be close to a 220 lb rider and the extra weight of other two style bikes. Or is the klr still a little hp handicapped?
 

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A stone stock KLR650 can get you a speeding ticket in any state in the Union. And a 705 cc kit and its attending labor gets pretty involved. Best to stop at 685 cc & reserve the 692 kit just in-case of a screw-up.

A 685 with properly ported head and Degreed camshafts along with air box mods & a a freer flowing exhaust should satisfy your desire for MORE. Mine is more stock than not.

Read here, https://www.klrchris.com/klr650-small-port-head/
 
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Thanks for post. My nephew is buying the new ktm 790 duke for a long haul to yukon. Although he out weighs me by nearly 30lbs i was hoping to keep his tail light visible. Im used to wrenching on snowmobiles all my life and currently big bored my 2013 summit 800 to a 872.
 

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After reading the smallport article more bore would actually help the big head. I also build cleveland ford engines for a hobby and i will say the flow on these heads even stock is impressive to say the least.
 

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After reading the smallport article more bore would actually help the big head. I also build cleveland ford engines for a hobby and i will say the flow on these heads even stock is impressive to say the least.
Steve.k, I'll suggest that you take the time to read the rest of klr.chris articles.

And a cross-country tour shouldn't be a race. But yeah, I know some roads just beg to be ridden quickly. But its not how fast one can accelerate out of corners that makes those roads fun with touring gear, its how little one slows down for the curves.

Maybe you ought to consider Cogent Dynamics suspension upgrades to control the touring load, rather than horsepower to accelerate the load?
 
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Yes i know what your saying. Im just saying to make the bikes closer. I read pretty much his whole site. I recently talked to fella who did this yukon run with the 685 kit. He was very happy with the bike. He said it. Ran flawlessly and the extra oomph was great to have. He had A daylong seat on his also.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
1800 miles one way up there. Alot is paved. But we plan on touring alot of areas not paved.
 

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I put a 685 on mine...I honestly cannot tell the difference vs. the original 650. Well, one difference is I no longer have to add oil every 100 miles. And, I suppose it's a bit smoother. But as far as oomph goes...well, the KLR is not known for oomph. If I want to go fast, I ride a different bike.

A KLR makes, what, 35 horsepower or something? So, you jazz it up, and maybe get 40 horses. Not enough to notice..

Slow and steady wins the race many times.

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Discussion Starter #11
The 705 mod with cams,porting and pipe dynoed at 56 rear wheel. Thats about 62-64 at flywheel. That would be a noticeable jump id say.
 

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If you are looking for more power, why not go the 719 route? I believe the 705 requires a new cylinder liner so you might as well go big.
 

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I put a 685 on mine...I honestly cannot tell the difference vs. the original 650. Well, one difference is I no longer have to add oil every 100 miles. And, I suppose it's a bit smoother. But as far as oomph goes...well, the KLR is not known for oomph. If I want to go fast, I ride a different bike.

A KLR makes, what, 35 horsepower or something? So, you jazz it up, and maybe get 40 horses. Not enough to notice..

Slow and steady wins the race many times.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
I was pleased with the 685 I put on my 2008 due to the reduction in vibration, but can't say the extra couple of horsepower were noticeable. If you really want to feel lots of power, get a different bike. But, if you just like working on them as I do, go for it.
 

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685 kit plus freed up airbox, slightly cleaned up intake port, opened up stock exhaust, Runs much smoother, and only needs a tiny bit of oil (probably averages 1 ounce per 300 miles) when I run it over 5000 RPM for sustained periods. Somewhat more power, but not anything that would keep a KTM 790 in sight on a long flat straightaway.
With modified windshield & seat, the bike is very comfortable and I could ride 12 hours a day at 75 mph if needed. That’s what puts miles on the clock, not 100 mph with reliability, tires, deer or law enforcement issues.
Suggest you add a 16 tooth countershaft sprocket plus fresh chain and go for it.
 

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Just remembered that several years ago I had also done the MC Mod and all the carb enrichment tricks. The MC Mod did make my 2011 much smoother at lower RPMs. At some point in there, after doing a series of plug checks, I took it to a dyno mostly to check the A/F ratio, and was delighted to see that it was near stoichiometric across the range.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks everyone. Very good repies for sure. I did the windshield mod and very happy. Im going to get the corbin seat redone over winter and soften it up. I like the klr the way it handles i just think with some engine mods which i can do myself over winter it would really perk up bike. Im 200lbs with gear and if you add hard bags i think the ol bike will be lagging a bit. There is some long pulls to yukon for sure. I fully intend on the 16 tooth also.
 

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FWIW, I am in the process now to install a 719cc piston and liner upgrade. I’m going to have RaceTech rebuild my head with 1mm oversize valves, webcams 163 grind camshaft, webcams high performance valve springs with titanium retainers and keepers, 5 way valve seat bring, and full ported head.

I too want some additional power. Mostly so I can safely pass people in cars that cruise at 80 plus not crawl up hills fully loaded.

I want to do this on a dual sport - KLR650 and not an adventurer style motorcycle. Nor do I want a KTM DS as they are really dirt bikes with turn signals - IMO.

My Cogent shocks have already arrived. I’m sure they will improve the suspension, but still ... I want some engine improvements too. From what I’ve found in my research, the combination I’m proposing with some carburetor and exhaust/muffler changes should produce close to 60 hp at the rear wheel.

If I can find a dyno testing place close to the Coachella valley in CA I’ll try and get a before and after run to see what the combination really does. My tear down starts over Thanksgiving and hopefully completes by Christmas.


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FWIW, I am in the process now to install a 719cc piston and liner upgrade. I’m going to have RaceTech rebuild my head with 1mm oversize valves, webcams 163 grind camshaft, webcams high performance valve springs with titanium retainers and keepers, 5 way valve seat bring, and full ported head.

I too want some additional power. Mostly so I can safely pass people in cars that cruise at 80 plus not crawl up hills fully loaded.

I want to do this on a dual sport - KLR650 and not an adventurer style motorcycle. Nor do I want a KTM DS as they are really dirt bikes with turn signals - IMO.

My Cogent shocks have already arrived. I’m sure they will improve the suspension, but still ... I want some engine improvements too. From what I’ve found in my research, the combination I’m proposing with some carburetor and exhaust/muffler changes should produce close to 60 hp at the rear wheel.

If I can find a dyno testing place close to the Coachella valley in CA I’ll try and get a before and after run to see what the combination really does. My tear down starts over Thanksgiving and hopefully completes by Christmas.


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you could go motard

 

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you could go motard

I have! Or that’s where the PO kinda wanted to go. I bought it with a 19” wheel on the front. Then I bought a pair of used wheels off eBay as an off-road set. Standard 21” front & 17” rear.

I have to admit the 19” on the front with the Anakee 3 rubber is nice. Quick response time and no lowering of the shocks needed. If the PO had put a 17” on the front I think the front forks would need to have been dropped about an inch in the triple clamp.


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