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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everybody!

I have bought an old 85 KLR 600 cheap a couple months ago, in pretty fair shape. Two days ago i took it to the mechanic for carb cleaning and tuning and final chain adjustment, i went to pick it up today, and, he starts it up it kinda starts but dies quickly (due to being cold and not giving enough choke) after a many tries it wont start at all. Than we hear this knock, he said it went out of timing and hitting the valve i can turn the engine over but it stops when it hits the valve. He didn't charge me for the carb work and than i took the bike home took off the top and the side the timing chain does seem to be loose but other than that i dont see anything wrong with it.

Anyone could suggest what i should do?
I will provide pictures later!

Thx
Desperate to ride.
 

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Evilman,
Bikes don’t kinda bend valves…… If the bike was out of time then the bike will hit the valve first time around……… These guys are awesome, keep adding details and they will help you find the problem….
 

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Discussion Starter #3
He was trying to start the bike for a long time than got flooded took the plug out and went at it again! Could have that retard the timing?

It is for sure a valve is blocking the piston to go a full cycle! I took the top off and side cover off didnt see anything other than a fairly loose chain !

Could the chain tensioner got loose?

Any help welcome!
 

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Cam chain / timing chain tensioner failure is common on the 600. So is chain wear, increasing the possibility for the engine to jump time. And bend valves.





At this point, I'd be pulling the tensioner out and checking that it is all intact and working. They are prone to fail, and many of the older ones were cobbled to function as manual adjusters, rather than spring tensioned adjusters. Your's may have been replaced with an after market component, and require manual adjustment. Or be shot and need replacement. i contend this is where frequent oil changes are evident. Oil that has "broke down", no longer offering the needed protection it was designed to provide, will allow excessive wear in the timing / cam drive system. The Mojave ATV's are notorious for cam system issues, which uses a similarly designed engine. Not all that unusual for a low mile engine to need a replacement timing chain, if it has not been well maintained.

On the flip side, someone will pipe up and claim they only change oil every 10,000 miles, replacing with used oil from the county hazmat recycling tank, and they never had a timing problem, so that couldn't be it.

One step at a time. Check your tensioner.

BTW, if you need anything for that bike, there is a complete, running when stripped, KLR 600 being parted out on EBAY right now. Email seller for additional information on other parts he has.

http://motors.shop.ebay.com/fishheadracing/m.html
 

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When you took the head off, did the piston have a hole in it? Is the valve bent?
If no on both….
Why not put the head back on and retime the bike… then crank the bike over slowly by hand with the plug out to see if there is any interferences
 

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It was running ok when you took it to the mechanic? Seems kind of weird that it would act like this after a carb adjustment and a tuneup... I wonder if he didn't adjust the doohickey (or try to) and possibly it was broken, so a piece of it fell off and might be locking the engine up? I'd have a look at that as well as the cam timing.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok Here are some pictures.
I found that little spring came off the KACR unit Kawasaki automatic compression relese!
I cannot tur it to ful cycle i think the exhaust valve not letting the piston come up all the way to the top!

Should i replace that spring?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
OK
I worked on it today and i have discovered that the exhaust valves are both broken! Bummer i need to take the engine apart!

Is it possible that i get away only taking the head off?
And do i have to remove the engine in order to take the head off?

thx
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
85 KLR 600 broke the valves!

Finally figured out what is wrong with my bike. The SOB broke both exhaust valves!

Some pictures of the crime in the second post.


I have a couple questions

1st Can i still use my piston and head with this minor damage as it appears on the pictures?

2nd Can i get away getting only two new exhaust valves or i need to get new intakes too?

3rd do i need new head gasket or can i just reuse the old one?

thx
 

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Reply to this post until you have 15 and you can post pics.
 

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*Disclaimer: Although sincere, all comments are from the WAG* department. I'm here, the bike is there. I can't see the cylinder walls, the timing chain, the timing marks, the valve seats, seals, guides, piston skirts or connecting rod.

Looks like you might of got lucky with the piston. I would suggest new exhaust valves, head gasket. Intake valves should be OK, just tidy them up a bit. Big thing you need to do is find out why these valves broke. It jumped time, poltergeist, etc.

Obviously, the exhaust valves were open when they got crunched, so the valve seats in the head should be OK. Meaning I don't pick up on the need for any machine work.

This outfit has valves about 20 bucks cheaper than anywhere else I looked:

http://www.motogrid.com/pages/parts/viewbybrand/9/kawasaki.aspx

They get $32.00 for the head gasket.

I'm sure this is a parts drop shipper, meaning that they probably don't stock the parts on their shelves. You may want to get them to confirm availability before you bet the farm on them.

Needing to repair the valves is the obvious. Why they broke, not so much. Need to know for sure why that happened.


*WAG: wild ass guess

****
 

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Pull the left side motor cover and fly wheel, I'm sure you will find what caused the problem there....!!
The Doo Hickey broke!

Kurt
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks for the help guys!
So that minor damage wont affect the performance, right?
The only problem is that i don't have a flywheel puller and have no idea from where i can get one for this bike.

The KACR Decompressior spring came off!
 

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Thanks for the help guys!
So that minor damage wont affect the performance, right?
The only problem is that i don't have a flywheel puller and have no idea from where i can get one for this bike.

The KACR Decompressior spring came off!
You might get away with using the piston as it sit's.

I'm sure the Doo hickey broke and you will fine a broken spring and lever behind the fly wheel assemble.
This part is the weak point of the KLR motor. This is the reason everyone that buys a KLR replaces right away. This includes the New KLR's

You can get a fly wheel puller from any Bike dealer.

I could type everything out but it would take me a month of Sundays, so if you want to call me feel free.

Kurt
Cell: 916.995.0038
 

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I would fix the valves put her back together and run it……. These Big bore Kawasaki’s are amazing what they will take and keep running
 

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Thanks for the help guys!
So that minor damage wont affect the performance, right?
The only problem is that i don't have a flywheel puller and have no idea from where i can get one for this bike.

The KACR Decompressior spring came off!

The puller is a 22mm X 1.5 RH thread. Available at bike shops for around 10 bucks. They can be a crap shoot as far as quality.

I use a 22mm truck wheel stud with a 19mm nut welded to the top of it. 3 bucks at any truck repair shop, some truck stops, motor home repair / dealer... NAPA near by? Part # 13-1592 is a M22 x 1.5 thread pitch truck lug stud. These wheel studs are designed to be torqued to 475-500 foot pounds. You strip one of those out, I got a future for you crushing manhole covers.

Put a glop of grease in the threaded flywheel hole. I use a metric four way car wheel wrench to break 'em free. Sometimes I get 'em torqued up to where my tongue is turning a light blue, and hold off a minute. Often the flywheel will release from that pressure on their own. Impact wrenches don't give me that feeling that I'm working "with" the flywheel. More like I'm attacking it. I guarantee you won't strip that wheel stud. Not so sure about the rotor/ flywheel.

Easy does it.

Real bad news is you'll need an off-set wrench. A cheap 1 1/4 or 32mm wrench, heated and bent to fit works just fine.



KLR's. A fitting place to use the phrase Adapt. Improvise. Overcome.
 
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