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Discussion Starter #1
my klx isnt charging correctly.
93 or 94 i dont remember. its the black and green one.

its charging almost fully at 1.5k rpms at 14.2/14.3v

when rpms increase it gradually drops to 13.7v/13.8v

this causes my bike to not want to start after a ride.

i tested the regulator, while connected to the bike(unplugged from the stator).

forward bias test shows 0.543 ohms on the three yellow stator wires with no continuity when checked backwards.

same results with reverse bias test.

stator wires do not have continuity with ground and have a resistance rating of .7 between them

while the bike is running all three stator wires put out about 45 acv @ 3k rpms and about 60 acv @ 4/5k rpms

i did a + voltage drop test by testing the outputwire (white wire) of the reg/rec to the +battery terminal and have .07 @5k rpms

i did a - voltage drop test by testing the ground wire (bk/wht) to the - battery terminal and got .1v @ 5k rpms

so as far as i can tell this should all be within spec. i did not have a manual. i am obviously missing something or these reading are not within spec and my understanding of where it should be is off.

is it off? is there something else to check for? any ideas of what to do differntly?

thanks!!!
 

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From everything that I have just read, your Charging System is operating normally. As the output Amperage goes up due to RPM increase, the Voltage may go down.

As the charged state of a battery comes back Up after being partially dis-charged by the starter motor the voltage will attempt to stabilize. The voltage regulator will attempt to keep slightly over-charging, so 13.7-13.8 volts is usually considered 'good'.

A 12 volt battery is in theory capable of 'generating' 13.2 volts. That is 2.2 volts per cell.

But in reality a flooded cell 12 volt battery will only retain about 12.6-12.8 volts, one hour after charging & an AGM maintenance free battery will retain about 12.8-13.0 volts.
A lithium iron battery may retain nearer the 13.2 volts.
 

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BATTERY condition may be an issue, IMHO.

13.7-13.8 volts appear sufficient for charging a battery, to me.

Without gross parasitic circuit loading, battery oughta start the bike after nominal engine run-up.

Modest proposal: Load-test charged battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ive been going thru batteries. This is a good agm battery. The voltage shouldnt go down as the engine revs. It is an issue because my bike wont start. Will die when cranking but as soon as the cylinder turns over when i bump start it it fires immediately. Why would they use such a small battery for such a large thumper?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Why would this charging system work differently then any other chargi g system ive worked on or learned about? Bike should charge at low rpms around 13.5 and at high rpms around 14.5 . And 13.5 is not enough to keep the bike fully charged.
 

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Another MOSFET regulator installation article, https://www.klrforum.com/1987-2007-wrenching-mods/36609-vrrupgrade.html


This was found with the Google Custom Search function on the RH side of screen,
https://www.klrforum.com/gtsearch.php?q=MOSFET Regulaor install
Have you read any of the Hi-Lited Links in my eariler postings? I just re-confirmed that all three of them operate.

A TX9 AGM battery in your KLX650 is not necessarily an undersized battery! Same size used in DR650, XR650, VFR750 V four.

The question remains, what is wrong with your bikes starting system and/or charging system?

Did you purchase that battery in a box? Dry / Un-filled & you had to charge it yourself? Or was it 'supposedly' Filled / Charged / Ready to Install from the retailer?
Either way, I have to find it questionable from 12,000 miles away.

Here is my 1st question.
What was its 'at rest' voltage before you ever put it in the bike?

What is its 'at rest' voltage one hour after charging And one hour after riding?
I've found that an AGM should be initially charged to 15.5 VDC on an old fashioned 1 amp charger for Longest/Strongest life.
Automatic Chargers / Battery Tenders / Maintainers usually turn-down Too Early to achieve the 15.5 VDC.
If an AGM is not brought up to this 15.5 volts on its initial charging, they seem to never achieve full strength & die young. Flooded cells need to be brought up to 14.5 volts for the same reason.

A 'Good' AGM should then Maintain at-least an 'at rest - 1 hr after charging' Minimum of 12.8 volts.
Will your battery pass this simple testing today? Will your battery still be very close to the 12.8 volts after 6-12 hours?


Yes, I will agree that if your charging system would maintain nearer 14.2-14.5 @ 2000-7500 rpm it would be better.
Therefore I supplied the links to threads about the new style MOSFET regulators.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Why are we talking about filling a battery? I mentioned it was an agm. I did a bench test on my reg/rec and that passed. Off the charger it was at 13+ i dont remember exactly and it noted the voltage drop from a day to three days to a week and it dropped a volt or so. I do have a radio wired into the bike. Possible volt draw, but i did a voltage drop test and everything came up honkey dorey. The bike wont start again after a ride. Sometimes wont start from sitting. If im charging as it should, why am i having these issues. Might have another issue causing the bike to not want to start, draining my battery. Idk alot of factors but ive been trying to eliminate them.
 

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Yes and I'm trying to eliminate the probability of an improperly prepared & initially charged battery/batteries!

A Good Battery should not drop more than a tenth or two of a volt in a week, unless either IT or the unit it is installed into has issues.
 

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Started my personal bike a bit ago. Its charging system will also fade .3 - .4 volts between absolute maximum & stabilized fully recharged after initial cold start up.

Lithium Iron battery, static voltage before start, 13.22vdc. Its been about 4-5 weeks since engine last run.

This is the second run today.
Voltage dropped to 11.38 volts ON starter.

13.17 - 13.19volts @ 1100rpm shortly off choke, 70f shop temp.

14.44 - 14.50volts @ 4000rpm sustained fully stabilized / re-charged from start-up. About 5-6 minutes run time.

Decrease rpm towards idle and voltage spiked up to 14.74 as throttled down. Saw 14.88 2 hours ago.

13.17 - 13.19volts @ 1200rpm 190f hot idle.

12.99 - 13.02volts @ 1200rpm 215-220f Fan On hot idle.

Been about 30 minutes since engine turned off. Now 13.28volts.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I monitored the voltage draw within 11 days
10/19 @12.68
10/23 @ 12.53
10/30 @ 12.34

A friend suggested this wasnt bad. But youre saying otherwise?
 

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I'll suggest that you currently have a weak battery. A 'GOOD' AGM battery should be nearer 12.8 - 13.0 volts at rest and should not fade away nearly that quickly.
You have replaced several batteries as I recall.

Are the batteries which you are purchasing all the same brand and from the place?

Are they pre-fill & supposedly fully charged, Ready to Install? What was their voltage at time of installation?

Or are they in a box, with an acid pack? And you have to fill & charge? If so, what kind of charger are you using?

Electrical systems are not my strong suit, I'm hoping others might join the conversation.

I don't know if this @Damocles or @Tom Schmitz is supposed to send a notice to members. I occasionally see my name hi-lited in Blue, but I just happened to stumble into the posting.
 

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Age of battery?

If reasonably new, I'd suspect a parasitic load--ohm meter test, disconnected positive terminal cable to ground might indicate one.

Otherwise, pdwestman's suggestion may be valid; bad battery. Charging voltages appear copacetic with lithium requirements I've read.

Then, again . . . the voltage drop ain't bad, as your friend said; if the bike reliably starts, a non-problem, IMHO.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I just tested the charging system with another battery and got the same results. Its relatively new , an acid battery, that i keep on a trickle charger. So im ruling out the battery.
 

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Why does that matter? The charging system isnt acting as it should with two different batteries and all of my component tests have passed, i mean obviously im missing something but its not what the battery is resting at
 

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Just because you had that second battery on a trickle charger does Not Prove that it was or is a "Good" battery either!
The strength & durability of any battery is highly dependant of its initial filling /saturating & charging. A weak or failing battery may not be allowing your charging system to gain its full potential 14.2 -14.5 volts at 4000+ rpm?

Maybe it is the clutch / kickstand / neutral safety switches causing your non starts? But if connecting a jumper battery or installing a battery which is just off of a battery charger (even if it is also a failing battery) and the starter motor immediately cranks over and the engine starts, I have to Question the battery or batteries.

Accurate charging system testing requires a proven 'Good' battery.
Your bike was originally designed & equipped to use an AGM battery. So to properly test its charging system we should have a proven good AGM battery with Very Near if not slightly Above 12.8 volts. Is your volt meter accurate?
Does your multi-meter have a milliamp scale to test for current flow before connecting the negative cable to the bike? I think I re-read that you have a radio installed.

Can you take all of your 'freshly' maintained/re-charged batteries to a retailer with an appropriate motorcycle sized battery tester/analyzer? Within a day after charging, but at least 1 hour after charging? Even with those fancy testers, the batteries need to be 'at-rest' for at least 1 hour or they will give an in-accurate result!
 

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