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Discussion Starter #1
Any veteran pointers on what to check first? it was running great until it just randomly started doing this, this morning. first thing that comes up that the manual says to check, is choke plunger system... but then the manual doesnt follow up with how to actually check it!
 

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Do you leave the "choke" (starting enricher) "ON" after starting, giving the engine some time to warm up?

At what temperature do you experience this phenomenon, and . . . does it happen when the bike engine is warm, or cold only?

Total speculation: You may not be running with choke in mixture-richening mode long enough. Otherwise, with an idling warm engine, just barely nudging the "choke" will kill the engine.

On "checking" the "choke." The mechanism is pretty simple; cable withdraws a plunger from the carb when ON. Definitively checking somewhat difficult; a nut secures the cable to the carb body; you can loosen the nut and observe the action, but . . . awfully hard to re-thread the nut into the carb . . . if you try it, you'll see! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Do you leave the "choke" (starting enricher) "ON" after starting, giving the engine some time to warm up?

At what temperature do you experience this phenomenon, and . . . does it happen when the bike engine is warm, or cold only?

Total speculation: You may not be running with choke in mixture-richening mode long enough. Otherwise, with an idling warm engine, just barely nudging the "choke" will kill the engine.

On "checking" the "choke." The mechanism is pretty simple; cable withdraws a plunger from the carb when ON. Definitively checking somewhat difficult; a nut secures the cable to the carb body; you can loosen the nut and observe the action, but . . . awfully hard to re-thread the nut into the carb . . . if you try it, you'll see! :)
its been operating perfect, unitl now, i dont touch the choke, i know that will kill it, it cant warm up now, because its shutting down after a few sec. its cold, because it doesnt stay on, this isnt intermittent. it has happened and now the bike will not start
 

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Have compression, spark, combustible mixture?

Internet's an imperfect communication medium; don't know whether you put the "choke" ON or not when starting; KLR650 engine's somewhat cold-natured, might need the choke on for awhile to sustain operation.
 

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dopfreerain,
How long have you owned the bike? How many miles have you put on it?

How full is the fuel tank? Maybe need to turn to reserve? Maybe the vacuum hose from top front of carb to fuel tap diaphragm is loose fitting or cracked and leaking off vacuum and can't fully open the fuel valve.

What temp is your location in the mornings?

We really need more info from you.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
its approx 60 degrees in the AM. there is about half take, ive owned the bike for about 2 weeks, and but maybe 150 miles on it.


i posted some videos of trying to start this morning on a cold start, but i cant post the link until i have 15 posts.. im going to load some pictures of the carb so maybe yall can help me identify which hoses are which so i know what everyone is referring to.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
sorry im slow to respond, my bike lives on the curb and i live on the 6th floor of an apartment, lugging tools up and down is pain.
 

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right side - yellow
https://ibb.co/k15gtR
left side - green and red

https://ibb.co/g9pVnm

https://ibb.co/jsPKf6

is yellow circle fuel in from the petcock valve?
1st pic. RH. Yellow.
This is the vacuum hose FROM the carb TO the vacuum diaphragm, 1" square box on the backside of original OEM Automatic (shut-off) fuel tap.
Is this hose connected firmly to the small 3/16" nipple on the back half of the fuel tap?

Dis-connect the big 1/4" hose from the fuel tap. Leave the choke lever completely off (warm/run position).
Depress the starter button for 5 seconds to confirm sufficient fuel flow to the carb.

If not good fuel flow, disconnect the small 3/16" hose from the carb and suck on it with your lips. (or use a substitute longer hose to the 3/16" nipple on the fuel tap) Confirm fuel flow.

Drain carb using drain port screw on bottom RH Side of float bowl. (Could be Phillips/Flat or 3mm Allen head.) Leave open.
Re-connect 1/4" fuel line to fuel tap, suck on 3/16" vacuum hose.
Observe fuel flow to & thru float bowl drain port.

I don't think your carb float bowl is filling with fuel.

2nd pic. LH. Red.
Is Cold Start Enrichener (choke) cable, water grommet & plastic ferrel (nut).
Why did you not leave (choke) pulled full on in video? The engine is not fully warmed yet!

You may have missed getting a Green circle on the 1/4" Black Fuel hose and Nipple on this LH pic?

3rd pic. High LH. Green.
Is the float bowl atmospheric air vent. Other end usually hangs alongside shock absorber spring.
Confirm this hose is Not Plugged or Kinked.
The engine would usually still start and idle with this hose plugged, I think. But would NOT run at slightly higher revs.
 

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Ultimately, ain't nothin' wrong with taking your bike to a commercial shop.

As an analog, what do you do if your CAR won't start? And you've tried every trick you can think of?

Why, a professional mechanic from a service station, dealership, or independent garage might be consulted.

Now, a motorcycle? Similarly, no stigma attached to professional help. Even the Internet isn't always a substitute for the lifetime of study, training, and experience a competent professional mechanic may have available.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
1st pic. RH. Yellow.
This is the vacuum hose FROM the carb TO the vacuum diaphragm, 1" square box on the backside of original OEM Automatic (shut-off) fuel tap.
Is this hose connected firmly to the small 3/16" nipple on the back half of the fuel tap?

Dis-connect the big 1/4" hose from the fuel tap. Leave the choke lever completely off (warm/run position).
Depress the starter button for 5 seconds to confirm sufficient fuel flow to the carb.

If not good fuel flow, disconnect the small 3/16" hose from the carb and suck on it with your lips. (or use a substitute longer hose to the 3/16" nipple on the fuel tap) Confirm fuel flow.

Drain carb using drain port screw on bottom RH Side of float bowl. (Could be Phillips/Flat or 3mm Allen head.) Leave open.
Re-connect 1/4" fuel line to fuel tap, suck on 3/16" vacuum hose.
Observe fuel flow to & thru float bowl drain port.

I don't think your carb float bowl is filling with fuel.

2nd pic. LH. Red.
Is Cold Start Enrichener (choke) cable, water grommet & plastic ferrel (nut).
Why did you not leave (choke) pulled full on in video? The engine is not fully warmed yet!

You may have missed getting a Green circle on the 1/4" Black Fuel hose and Nipple on this LH pic?

3rd pic. High LH. Green.
Is the float bowl atmospheric air vent. Other end usually hangs alongside shock absorber spring.
Confirm this hose is Not Plugged or Kinked.
The engine would usually still start and idle with this hose plugged, I think. But would NOT run at slightly higher revs.
alright update:

first off, thank you for the tips, ive been running through your checklist and im ready to report.

******************** CHECKED **********************************************************


1. I decided to verify that indeed there was a spark, although i never had this suspicion, but it would be crying shame to go through all this and have the plug be the culprit. Bought a new plug, checked gap, pulled the old one out,( oh god, outside rusted to shit, i wonder how old it was ) inside, plug looks pretty solid, normal wear.

2. checked to verify getting spark at new plug; pull plug out connect to side of engine as ground, nice solid spark.

3. check full flow to carb as per your recommendation with 1/4" disconnected. solid fuel flow spitting out, not problems there.

********** Problem ******************************************************


4. drained carb using port drain screw, alot of fuel came out, finally stopped, disconnected 3/16" vacuum hose, sucked on hose, no response. nothing, no fuel coming out of drain port, feel like no suction on hose when sucking on it,
 

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Sounds like obstruction in fuel intake "piping" within carburetor.

From your # 3 above, looks like your petcock is o.k.

Possibly, a hunk of trash from a deteriorating gasket or whatever in the petcock clogged your internal carb piping.

If you want to clean your carb, might look at Tom's videos here:






If you'd like to look into how the carb works, you might Google, "Care and Feeding of the CVK40," or click on the thread on this website hosting the rundown.
 

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dopfreerain,
I sincerely hope that you DIDN'T remove and replace the spark plug with-out first removing the radiator shrouds and fuel tank and then proceeding to clean the dirt and debris from around the spark plug well. Otherwise some of the crud that rusted the exterior of the plug fell straight into the piston and cylinder!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
update: got the carb completely disassembeled and sitting in carb cleaner. float bowl packing came out in pieces, so did that jet needle? packing, the needle that comes out with a spring, and then a tiny metal washer, and then a tiny rubber washer, that rubber washer was also in pieces.

going to need some parts, any suggestions on a rebuild kit?
 
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