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Yep; as Damocles so eloquently states; it's up to you. Depends on your skill, tools, workspace availability, free time, wants, needs and budget. Nothing you've indicated would bother me in the least; mostly 'cause I would be upgrading the brakes, shock and headlight anyhow. Buying a KLR that needs nothing will probably cost you $3k or so......and there are no guarantees there either unless you pop for a brand new one with warranty.

On the shock; KLR suspension is a passion of mine.....though many will have differing views, I would NOT waste the time to rebuild the stock POS emulsion shock. I would replace the shock with a decent aftermarket deCarbon style shock (Cogent Adventure is the bargain of the century though a Progressive 465 can be had a bit cheaper) and if I couldn't afford one, I'd replace the blown shock with a stock take-off (any year will work, Gen2 will require the corresponding bottom bolt).

When I get my new shop built, I'm going to buy a cheap Gen1 to rebuild.....I have little that needs to be done on my two so now I'm itching for a project...


Cheers,
Dave
 

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You're right, Paul!

Checked fiche; no standpipe on the KLR250!

[Not trying to divert attention from my error.] I notice two drain screws cataloged; a "49-state" 1.0 pitch version, and a 0.75 pitch California number.

"Greens" dominate our world more and more . . . :)
The 1.0 pitch drain screw is used on older models. It has a combination Flat/Phillips drive head.
I don't know exactly when they all went to the 3mm allen drive, .75 pitch screw.
But it can be hard to find a parts screen for an older bike with the proper part number for the old coarse thread screw.


So when I got to do this fuel screw calibration, should I loosen the band clamps and twist the carb to gain access to the screw. maybe remove the throttle linkage? I forgot which hole the screw is in, I posted a picture in the link below, is it the red or green?

https://ibb.co/n9BnS6
The procedure of turning the mixture screw in & out & then setting it at 1/2 way between the minimum leanness and the maximum richness works best with an Extended aftermarket fuel screw, about $20.
For now just set it at 2 turns open.

starting to wonder if i should sell the bike..

1. headlight too dim needs work
2. font brake completely flat
3. I think the clutch is going out
4. rear shock completely blown



1999 klr 650 so far im in about 1300. bought for 950. should i just sell it?
#1, Clean the wire terminals. And, Many KLR headlights are aimed Way to High. They never even got properly adjusted for the skinny A&P kids weight, cause he didn't even attempt to!

#2, Fluid too low? And probably need to clean the gelatin scum of old fluid out of the reservoir, at a bare minimum.

#3, People think there if something wrong with the clutch because it doesn't instantly dis-engage after a cold start and the bike lurches and the engine stalls going into 1st gear the 1st time of the day. NORMAL for a wet clutch.
Try holding the clutch lever squeezed to the bar. Now blip the throttle 3 times. Allow to return to idle. Now it should Snick it into gear, with-out stalling.

#4, Purchase a used KLR650 shock, off e-bay. A Gen 2 rear shock has a stiffer spring and 2015 up has an even stiffer yet spring and a new Gen2 lower clevis mounting bolt, or use washers to properly shim. $100-200 USD.

It will all be worth it when its done.
 

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Yep; as Damocles so eloquently states; it's up to you. Depends on your skill, tools, workspace availability, free time, wants, needs and budget.

When I get my new shop built, I'm going to buy a cheap Gen1 to rebuild.....I have little that needs to be done on my two so now I'm itching for a project...


Cheers,
Dave
Now I know of 2 Gen1 KLR's which would be prime candidates for an oil screen inspection/cleaning, a pressure relief valve lapping and the 100% oil filtration modification.
A mere 2 days work, with overnight intermission for epoxy curing.

The other possible mods are an additional option. ;)
 

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Now I know of 2 Gen1 KLR's which would be prime candidates for an oil screen inspection/cleaning, a pressure relief valve lapping and the 100% oil filtration modification.
A mere 2 days work, with overnight intermission for epoxy curing.

The other possible mods are an additional option. ;)
Haha; I said "little", not "nothing"! .....I will get to that (though I've already checked/cleaned the oil screens) as soon as I have a real shop again!

Cheers,
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #65
The 1.0 pitch drain screw is used on older models. It has a combination Flat/Phillips drive head.
I don't know exactly when they all went to the 3mm allen drive, .75 pitch screw.
But it can be hard to find a parts screen for an older bike with the proper part number for the old coarse thread screw.



The procedure of turning the mixture screw in & out & then setting it at 1/2 way between the minimum leanness and the maximum richness works best with an Extended aftermarket fuel screw, about $20.
For now just set it at 2 turns open.



#1, Clean the wire terminals. And, Many KLR headlights are aimed Way to High. They never even got properly adjusted for the skinny A&P kids weight, cause he didn't even attempt to!

#2, Fluid too low? And probably need to clean the gelatin scum of old fluid out of the reservoir, at a bare minimum.

#3, People think there if something wrong with the clutch because it doesn't instantly dis-engage after a cold start and the bike lurches and the engine stalls going into 1st gear the 1st time of the day. NORMAL for a wet clutch.
Try holding the clutch lever squeezed to the bar. Now blip the throttle 3 times. Allow to return to idle. Now it should Snick it into gear, with-out stalling.

#4, Purchase a used KLR650 shock, off e-bay. A Gen 2 rear shock has a stiffer spring and 2015 up has an even stiffer yet spring and a new Gen2 lower clevis mounting bolt, or use washers to properly shim. $100-200 USD.

It will all be worth it when its done.
great, i can buy a gen2 shock, i just found a 2012 for 200 on ebay, probably pick it up. about the fuel screw though.. if i already feel like its running lean at 2.25 out, isnt screwing it in to 2 going to make it more lean?
 

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Just FYI . . . the fuel screw only dominates mixture at IDLE . . . "Care And Feeding of the CVK 40" (link available from a thread on this website, or just Google the title) tells what does what in the carb fuel mixture department, at different rpm. I assume you've digested, "Carb Overhaul," a thread on this website.

Sounds like you're gonna keep the bike and DIY (do it yourself) rehabilitate the machine.

What, from the parameters mentioned, influenced your decision?
 

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Discussion Starter #67 (Edited)
Just FYI . . . the fuel screw only dominates mixture at IDLE . . . "Care And Feeding of the CVK 40" (link available from a thread on this website, or just Google the title) tells what does what in the carb fuel mixture department, at different rpm. I assume you've digested, "Carb Overhaul," a thread on this website.

Sounds like you're gonna keep the bike and DIY (do it yourself) rehabilitate the machine.

What, from the parameters mentioned, influenced your decision?
the fact that gen2 rear shock can be fitted to a gen1, I remember these days: https://imgur.com/a/SjnCx, plus this will give me a reason to buy a new portable tool set, since i have no garage, i need a proper kit moving up and down to the street from the apartment!

** how come i can never get the pictures to embed in the forum? **
 

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Imagur is a bit wiggy. You need to have a url with a '.jpg' ending, so you have to open the image in a new tab, then copy that url and embed it into the picture tool that is in the "Quick Reply" menu.

 

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Discussion Starter #69
the gift that keeps on giving. went in for the water pump seal change and decided to throw a new clutch in while I was poking around on that side. what I found was an oil screen full of debris that looks pretty got damn serious. pics located here:
http://13.58.200.212/gearhead

what do you all think? the black piece are hard an metallic, not gasket like. I swung by a moto shop to have a tech look at the pieces I collected. He said, it could be chain tensioner guides, balancer slides? but, he said that was a guess.

what kind of trouble am I getting into now?
 

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Did you Not Purchase a water pump shaft Oil Seal with your other parts?

You need to review Tom Schmitz's videos over here,
http://www.klrforum.com/2008-klr650-wrenching-mod-questions/14793-doohickey-got-fixed-gen2-bikes-right-ah-but-spring-spring.html

I think that most of the small hard black rubber 'chips' are from the 'side cushions' of the balancer sprockets. The longer hard black rubber 'strips' could be from the vertical long black steel & rubber slider guide towards the rear.

Any softer silicone rubber could be RTV sealant from a previous inspection or replacement of the OEM doo-hickey, sprockets, guides. But if you don't know the history, your gonna' havta' look for yourself.
 

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Discussion Starter #75
I guess I'm gonna buy the eagle rotor wrench and a fly wheel puller on amazon so I can get in there and see whats going on. If I do get in there am I just barking up a dead tree? or is likely that I can replace the deteriorating parts without tearing the engine apart further? am I in the neighbor hood of a complete rebuild yet?

starting to wonder whats inside the top end that needs attention now considering the condition of things thus far
 

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I've seen the 'metallic hairs' in your pics and can't really think of how they could be recently 'skinned off' of any internal engine parts, without also having fine glitter in the oil filter.

Have you reviewed Toms 'Souperdoo' Doo-Hickey vids?
 

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Discussion Starter #78
I've seen the 'metallic hairs' in your pics and can't really think of how they could be recently 'skinned off' of any internal engine parts, without also having fine glitter in the oil filter.

Have you reviewed Toms 'Souperdoo' Doo-Hickey vids?
Now that you say that, I took a closer look at the oil filter. There was in fact a couple metal glitterish pieces down deep in the crevices
 

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If recent doo-hickey / balancer chain / chain guide damage was the cause of the 3 or 4 'metallic hairs', I would almost expect the oil filter and the oil filter cavity to nearly look like Un-dried Coarse Grained Silver Paint. Not just a couple of odd flakes of glitter (which is actually quite normal, because of transmission & clutch).

Of course I could be mistaken. Trying to be optimistic.
 

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Discussion Starter #80
Well, I decided to put the bike back together. Got the clutch cover back on with all new seals in the water pump and a new clutch/springs. Man the clutch is stiff now! Took it for a spin, absolutely no more coolant leaks. School starting in 2 days and as an engineering student I will sadly not have time to pop the left side engine cover to inspect for damage. I hope that it stays together for awhile until I get the time.

Thank you for all the input. I'll revive the thread if I get back into the engine.
 
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