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OK, before I ask my questions, let me say this. This is a great site with people more than willing to help people out, amazing (not just saying it because I need some help either..)

I bought a new 2009 Blue KLR and had it shipped to Germany where I am stationed. I installed a Studebaker (I have seen the comments about KLR650.com, was new to this when I bought) exhaust and K&N air filter, the kit came with the jet kit as well. I a getting a lot of backfire when I ride now (decelerating) and I have seen the post about changing the carb air mixture screw to ¾ to 1 full turn out, but this requires drilling into the carb. (finally a question) Will the jet kit do basically the same thing of making it run richer? I am not so keen on drilling into the carb on a new bike little over 1K miles.

Does anybody have any pictures putting in a jet kit? I am fairly mechanically inclined, but am not familiar with all the terms that are in the instruction that came with the jet kit, and pictures would make the process a whole lot easier for the first time on a new bike. I have searched the web and cannot find pictures or a video surprisingly.

Next, I have a bit of wobble in the head of the bike when I am going around 70. I have seen all kinds of stuff from stiffer spring, heavier shock oil to a steering stabilizer and tighten my head nut. Let me describe a bit more. This is nothing violent just a slight wobble at about 70, first I thought it was road imperfections or the tires (had someone tell me to check the wheel balance as well) but I have no idea. Bars move about ¼ to ½ inch maybe, just enough to cause me some concern. Any help would be appriciated
 

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esplorer-

The popping on decel is a result of a too-lean condition in the idle cicuit. A jet kit won't fix that. You will need to remove the plug and set the idle jet screw correctly. See vatrader's post with pictures - best on the net that I've seen.

The K&N filter is considered a poor choice as it is more restrictive than stock. This will tend to richen the mixture slightly.

I have no experience with the Studebaker jet kit (and muffler), preferring the .22 cent mod for a stock set-up or the KLX needle and a smaller jet for a bike with complementary intake and exhaust mods. The procedure is pretty straightforward and can be done with the carb on the bike. See vatrader's post. You would remove the stock jet from the bottom and install the new jet, then rotate the carb and pull the top and the slide, replacing the needle that comes with the kit. Candidly, I would suggest the 22 cent mod be done first. See how you like it. With a new needle and jet the biggest issue is determining that the resulting air/fuel mixture is correct. The 22 cent mod is well proven to bring the mixture into to right range, as it corrects the slightly lean factory ratio. A new jet and needle may require airbox mods to get a bit more air flow to take advantage of the jet and needle combination.

As to the wobble, I would suggest checking the steering bearings for proper adjustment. SLO-KLR has posted up on the proper adjustment. Basically, when the front tire is off the ground, there should be some drag - the front wheel/forks should not flop about easily. The stock tire is a mild knobby, but shouldn't induce headshake. Balance could be an issue - does the front wheel have a weight on one of the spokes indicating that it was balanced?

Tom
 

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I bought a new 2009 Blue KLR and had it shipped to Germany where I am stationed. I installed a Studebaker (I have seen the comments about KLR650.com, was new to this when I bought) exhaust and K&N air filter, the kit came with the jet kit as well. I a getting a lot of backfire when I ride now (decelerating) and I have seen the post about changing the carb air mixture screw to ¾ to 1 full turn out, but this requires drilling into the carb. (finally a question) Will the jet kit do basically the same thing of making it run richer? I am not so keen on drilling into the carb on a new bike little over 1K miles.

Check the exhaust connections, header to cylinder and header to muffler. Air leaks there will cause decel popping. The aftermarket exhaust will lean out the decel (less restriction) also so you should at least look at the pilot circuit.

The air screw is under a cover plug. You drill the cover a bit to get something to pop it out to access the screw. You aren't drilling into the carb. The cover is on because of emission requirements.


Next, I have a bit of wobble in the head of the bike when I am going around 70. I have seen all kinds of stuff from stiffer spring, heavier shock oil to a steering stabilizer and tighten my head nut. Let me describe a bit more. This is nothing violent just a slight wobble at about 70, first I thought it was road imperfections or the tires (had someone tell me to check the wheel balance as well) but I have no idea. Bars move about ¼ to ½ inch maybe, just enough to cause me some concern. Any help would be appriciated

IMHO the front fender on the new model bikes causes the vague wobbly feeling. Some replace it with a supermoto type fender (KTM is popular I used a Cycra) some cut it down a bit. You can take it off and ride it to see if it is the fender causing the wobble.
 

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Thanks for the fast responses.I am going to give vatrader's post a try. Think that since it is new I wil take it to teh dealer and have them check the frnt wheel balance and the head bearing.

What Cycra fender did you use on what year KLR?
 

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Acerbis makes one that is an easy fit, runs about $25, and comes in basic colors that match the blue, red and black for the KLR.

Lockjaw has one and says it really cuts down on the wind deflection. He'll be along shortly to give you the 411.

tom
 

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Thanks for the fast responses.I am going to give vatrader's post a try. Think that since it is new I wil take it to teh dealer and have them check the frnt wheel balance and the head bearing.

What Cycra fender did you use on what year KLR?

This guy on an 08. Had to drill it to mount it. I didn't bother trying to mount the speedo cable guide on it, looked like a lawyer thing to me. No problems with the cable without the guide.

 

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Hi esplorer. On this front end vibration thing...do you have any saddlebags, top case, anything hanging on the rear of this bike? Anything that was not on there from the factory?

What do you guesstimate your geared up weight to be when riding, and what is your rear shock pre-load set at?

I'll help any way I can on the carb upgrades.....I would nudge ya to consider holding off on the jet kit until you try the 22 cent mod. It is a simple,very noticeable improvement that will not require a bunch of fiddling with in the future. The same can not be said for jet kits. Jet kits are required for bored out engines with head improvements. You just need to compensate for the after market exhaust. The amount of perceived gain to future headache is not worth it IMHO. YMMV
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I am going to try your very detailed mod tomorrow. Only thing from the factory hanging off the rear of the bike is my @$$ on occasion.

Geared up weight?? Im about 220 plus clothes, say 250. I increased rear preload by 2 lines off the factory setting.

I appriciate any help I get. thanks.
 

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I am going to try your very detailed mod tomorrow. Only thing from the factory hanging off the rear of the bike is my @$$ on occasion.

Geared up weight?? Im about 220 plus clothes, say 250. I increased rear preload by 2 lines off the factory setting.

I appriciate any help I get. thanks.
You might experiment with the shock pre load. I do not know what factory setting is for the shock, or if what you had was a dealer setting. I know the spring is rated for a Pacific Rim native with bulimia, which may lead to some funny handling until you get it dialed in.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
vatrader,

I tried out you carb stuff, worked like a champ, between that and looking over the exhaust from end to end, (thanks Spec for the idea....found out I was missing a bolt on the header to cylinder, I wonder what the dealer did for the service last week???)it is now down to just a slight burbble on decel and a small pop when I shift at times. completly acceptable for me. My screw was out 2 turns, I went with your 2 1/4 turns out reccomendation.

I keep hearing about an airbox mod as well, do you know where I find find that info? Or better, pictures?

Thanks all for the help.
 

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esplorer-

The K&N filter is considered a poor choice as it is more restrictive than stock. This will tend to richen the mixture slightly.

Tom
Really? I always had K&Ns in all my street bikes; I never entertained the thought of the stock filter as being better. You got me thinking now :confused:
 

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Randog -

This one comes under the heading of "Tribal Knowledge", meaning it is a pretty widely held belief, but there's not necessarily a definitive web site or publication offering iron-clad proof.

Generally, the criticism of the K&N is that, under average conditions, the stock or a Uni flows better. The K&N is reputed to not fit too well in the airbox, sealing poorly against the carburettor. Some have noted that it doesn't filter as well as a stock, meaning it's not too good for off-road use.

Tom
 

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Thanks Tom,

I have notice all those things wrong with the K&N and I have changing it back to stock on my list of lings to do.
 
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