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First time KLR owner, first time owner of bike with a foam filter. Got a bottle of Lucas Foam Filter Oil, got a plastic bag, made sure the new filter is well oiled(got a new Uni to keep in rotation). Looks like I over-oiled or under-squeezed it the airbox drain tube had some come out on the floor, took it out, squeezed some more, put back in, overnight roughly a spoon full more oil came out on the floor. Am I just under-squeezing it? Any harm in leaving it in to drain extra by itself or do I need to pull it out again and squeeze it much harder?
 

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I've not used Lucas Foam Filter Oil so it might not be a viscous as Bel-Ray or PJ-1 but generally speaking, it will sort itself out and drain (as you've seen). You need good coverage but no so much that it would drip a significant amount.

Dave
 

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I think that I remember Tom Schmitz aka Souperdoo saying that 3 tablespoonfuls (is that 1.5 ounces) is about the perfect oil amount to massage thru & thru for even color.

I wad the foam filters into the smallest ball I can & then squeeze the bejesus out of them, between my knees. Squeezing out all I can. But if I can't squeeze at least a couple drips OUT between my fingers, I add a little more & repeat.

OH, and by the way, there normally is not a hose attached to the 'dirty side' air box drain nipple. It usually just drips on the inner fender and then onto the swingarm.
The cleanside air box drain hose (with cap at bottom) is attached about 2 inches ahead of the air filter mounting surface. Be certain that hose is Capped to prevent sucking dust UP it.
Near impossible for air filter oil to get passed the divider and into the cleanside box.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I think that I remember Tom Schmitz aka Souperdoo saying that 3 tablespoonfuls (is that 1.5 ounces) is about the perfect oil amount to massage thru & thru for even color.

I wad the foam filters into the smallest ball I can & then squeeze the bejesus out of them, between my knees. Squeezing out all I can. But if I can't squeeze at least a couple drips OUT between my fingers, I add a little more & repeat.

OH, and by the way, there normally is not a hose attached to the 'dirty side' air box drain nipple. It usually just drips on the inner fender and then onto the swingarm.
The cleanside air box drain hose (with cap at bottom) is attached about 2 inches ahead of the air filter mounting surface. Be certain that hose is Capped to prevent sucking dust UP it.
Near impossible for air filter oil to get passed the divider and into the cleanside box.
Yes, the drain nipple the oil is coming out is not capped, it's running down the swingarm and onto the floor.
I easily used twice as much as you and didn't squeeze out nearly enough out of being paranoid not to leave it too dry. Any harm in letting the excess drip out on it's own?
 

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Any harm in letting the excess drip out on it's own?
It is only a little oilier mess on the LH side which probably has a fair bit of chain lube grunge anyways. No harm done.

'More than necessary' air filter oil is definitely better than 'Not Enough'.
 
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Over the years I have oiled many filters with filter oil.
I just pour some on the filter and start squeezing the filter in a ball and add a little more till the oil squeezes between my fingers.
I know some brands are thicker than others.
 

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First time KLR owner, first time owner of bike with a foam filter. Got a bottle of Lucas Foam Filter Oil, got a plastic bag, made sure the new filter is well oiled(got a new Uni to keep in rotation). Looks like I over-oiled or under-squeezed it the airbox drain tube had some come out on the floor, took it out, squeezed some more, put back in, overnight roughly a spoon full more oil came out on the floor. Am I just under-squeezing it? Any harm in leaving it in to drain extra by itself or do I need to pull it out again and squeeze it much harder?

I saturate mine with oil, squeeze the heck out of it then hang it over a small drip pan overnight. By then the oil is tacky and not dripping anymore and I finish installing it.

Cheers
KC
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I would rather see an over oiled foam filter vs under for obvious reasons. You could try using straight Lucas oil stabilizer or STP oil treatment. That stuff is sticky and won't run. Lately I have been using chainsaw bar oil which is really tacky and does a great job of catching the dirt and is really cheap compared to a "dedicated" foam filter oil which is just a cheap non detergent oil with tackifiers added to make it sticky..
 

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You could divert the excess oil to the chain, and increase your chain lube intervals to every other month! :eek:
 

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My friend has a Norton with a chain oiler.
 

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I have a Honda CB 750 that has an adjustable oiler at the countershaft. If you can live with the mess your chain will last forever on that one. Bleeds engine oil through the center of the shaft onto the sprocket..
 

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…and gives you an oil change every 1000 miles or so!
 

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I have a Honda CB 750 that has an adjustable oiler at the countershaft. If you can live with the mess your chain will last forever on that one. Bleeds engine oil through the center of the shaft onto the sprocket..
The 1973 & 74 Kawasaki Z1 900's used an oil injection pump like for 2 stroke bikes, mounted into the sprocket cover, driven by a roll pin thru the hollow transmission shaft. SAE90 gear oil in a quart tank under the LH side panel made a real baked on stinky mess of the 2 LH exhaust pipes, swingarm, chain guard, rear wheel, rear fender, tail light & turn signal.

Thank goodness that o-ring sealed chains were installed on the 1975 and up models.

I wouldn't use a Scott-Oiler automatic chain lubricator on any bike even if someone gave me one.
 
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