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Discussion Starter #1
Ok guys I apologize in advance for a mundane topic like "Air Filters" although we had a corroded screen topic a month ago which had a lot of legs and remains a mystery. So hear me out, The 2002 has had the air cleaner out say 4 - 5 times. I have 11k on odometer. one of the last times it was a total soak in Dawn soapy water and rinse thoroughly, dry, spritz with oil and re install. It occurred to me today on a hot 50mi romp, that maybe I am due to give the old steed a nice new one.

maybe I am being too fussy? regardless it it not a major investment and afterall she runs like a clock.

You dont feed a race horse stale potato chips.

So any suggestions? KAW Oem? Uni? I have tried K&N in the past but did not think it lived up to the hype, (prove me wrong?) cant think of another aftermarket name at the moment.

ideas appreciated. Line6
 

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Unifilter is generally regarded as the best. I've also used TwinAir and was happy with them. Many people have their preferred methods of cleaning and oiling; I clean mine in gasoline and let them air dry. For Oil, I strongly recommend proper foam filter oil which should be applied for complete coverage - I use PJ1 or Bel-Ray usually and completely soak the filter and squeeze out the excess. I also use white grease on the lip - this may be overkill but it's a habit from my offroad racing days and certainly doesn't hurt.

The K&N has dubious filtration ability, but nonwithstanding that, it flows poorly in the KLR due to the metal end cap as proven by airflow testing....there is no good reason to use one IMO.

I'm anal about air filter prep and maintenance and have destroyed a race bike motor due to accidental dust ingestion...it's one of the more important maintenance items on the KLR. Also always make sure that the clean side airbox drain hose is intact and plugged or your meticulous air cleaner maintenance is all for naught! ;-)

Dave
 

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line6,

Caution! Foam Air Filter Must Be THOROUGHLY OILED After Cleaning!

This means the oil needs to be massaged thru & thru the foam and squeeze out the excess.
Otherwise the talcum powder dust can still sneak past.

Not just "spritzed" on the inner & outer surfaces.

IIRC, Tom Schmitz has suggested that 3 Tablespoons of Foam Filter Oil is usually the near perfect amount for uniform color/coverage.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well, I guess "spritzed" was not a good descriptive verb. I know I got plenty of oil in the foam and I squezzed a lot out, blotted it some with paper towel and then cleaned up oil dripping underneath the bike for a couple days. Thanks for the advice guys, 3 tablespoons sounds about right. I intend to devise a work method with a popcorn bowl so I can uniformly run the foam through the puddle of oil for uniform takeup, that way it tells you how much has soaked up. I still have a bottle of bel ray I think.

dont tell my wife. line6
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Now inspired, I bought a Unifilter online and since the expected arrival date is still a week away, I dove into see how the filter was doing. Not too grimy, but still worthwhile. I used the gasoline and air dry trick then used a good amount of oil, worked it in all around squeezing and blotting with shop towels. Took a half hour to clean the inside of the airbox too. covered the opening to the screen with towel, scraped, and sucked with shop vac. a few shots of brake cleaner to break up the hard grime build up, and then vac'd it out again. Convinced every foam surface was well soaked squeezed and excess blotted, put it in.

Fired it up and it runs just the same. >.. great.

happy to have properly serviced my steed. Thanks for the helpful comments guys, hmmm . . where to ride to today?

line6
 

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FWIW - I clean my filter w a grease cutting detergent, air it dry, then put in a ziplock bag. Add a glug or 3 of oil (apparently about 3 ounces) and squeze it throughout then reassemble.

sre
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Dave, the gas rinse was very effective. I guess most important to me was treating the foam gently - squeezing and not wringing / (tearing action)

Of course on line videos warn against using gas. Growing up in the shop we cleaned parts with gas often. I could see where the wrong foam might not like gas, but hey this is for a motorcycle. I dont intend to soak it for days, just a rinse out.

Have you ever been concerned about using gas? I thought the dumbest thing I saw on video was the kid using hot water. thanks again for the thoughts and advice. Line6
 

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I've used gas for 50+ years. But for the last 45+ I have also further cleaned with warm soapy water, rinsed twice and allowed to 100% air dry before re-oiling.

On real dirt bikes ridden in the sand dunes or gullies it can take 2-4 soapy washes to get all of the sand out of the dual-stage foams.
 

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I add one more step to my filter cleaning. After it has air dried I use the shop vac and work the foam over from the outside to help insure I get as much sand out of the foam as possible prior to re oiling. When you wash the foam you are removing the oil that holds the grit and even though it all appears clean you may have massaged some of that sand right on through the foam to the inside where it could get sucked into the intake even after you apply the oil. I may be over killing the entire procedure, but it only adds a minute or two to the task. Whether or not it is doing anything beneficial, it makes me feel like I have done all I could to help the engine stay fresh longer.
 

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I'll suggest that sticky oil hold the grit. Be it residual grit inside the foam or new grit on the exterior surface. But yes, the vacuum cleaner can't hurt it.
 

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Dave, the gas rinse was very effective. I guess most important to me was treating the foam gently - squeezing and not wringing / (tearing action)

Of course on line videos warn against using gas. Growing up in the shop we cleaned parts with gas often. I could see where the wrong foam might not like gas, but hey this is for a motorcycle. I dont intend to soak it for days, just a rinse out.

Have you ever been concerned about using gas? I thought the dumbest thing I saw on video was the kid using hot water. thanks again for the thoughts and advice. Line6
No, like Paul, I've used gas since the 1970's with no issues whatsoever. I do use several rinses. Good note about avoiding "wringing" the filter.

Once upon a time I decided to try another popular filter cleaning/oiling regime and bought a bunch of No-Toil....I was keeping 3 racebikes going at a time so I thought it might be easier. After destroying a couple filters I went back to gasoline and Bel Ray and have stuck with it ever since. I buy 2-3 filters per bike and rotate them.....I clean and oil several at a time to minimize the effort and mess and then keep clean, oiled filters in zip lock bags ready to go.

Dave
 

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I've used gas for 50+ years. But for the last 45+ I have also further cleaned with warm soapy water, rinsed twice and allowed to 100% air dry before re-oiling.
though I'm comfortable with my 2-3 stage cleaning with gas, your method is undoubtably better - I'm just lazy and don't have the patience to wait. Gasoline drys/evaporates much more quickly

Dave
 

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I've raced many races that were so dusty we had to change filters part way through because the bike wouldn't run properly - it was common to not be able to see the filter surface at all, I chuckle at what some consider to be a dirty filter......of course, my race bikes had filters that had 3-4X the filter surface of the KLR's puny one. The only time I "dusted out" an engine was when one of our KTM200XC's had a warped filter cage which let dust past the filter.....one dusty race and that engine was done.


Dave
 
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