I'm confused. What would be the purpose of dual radiators, whether in a series or parallel?
If the standard radiator is of adequate efficiency, it would seem to me that adding more components would just add more potential points of failure.
Has anybody tried to install a better fan on the existing radiator? I wonder if you could make any gains that way? I guess you couldn't make it much larger, but perhaps one with more efficient blades spinning at a higher rate to draw more air through the radiator at low speeds?
I'm guessing it's not feasible or effective since I've never heard of anybody doing it.
Speaking from ignorance since I don't have a gen1, if the main concern is low speed high load operation - climbing a long steep rocky grade- you might consider mounting a second fan on the front of the radiator.
Has anyone had overheating problems with the KLR650 stock cooling system, in typical service? I have not; temperature gauge needle stays out of the red zone, no matter what the ambient temperature or load I've experienced. Just wondering at the problems others have faced.My bike doesn't seem to be much bothered heat and climbing so more of an exercise than requirement. The 195 F 'stat and by pass seems to have improved the cooling significantly but maybe there's an ideal candidate for a rad and fan waiting to be measured.
That's the part I don't get, iride4u.As noted by others changing the thermostat temperature can help. Adding a bypass . . . can also help, . . .
I think when Normk said "The 195 F 'stat and by pass seems to have improved the cooling significantly", he was referring to the quality of the cooling system rather than the quantity.That's the part I don't get, iride4u.
Don't see how a thermostat opening at a higher temperature enhances cooling capacity of existing water pump, radiator, and fan.
And, after the thermostat opens, radiator bypass doesn't, well, bypass--all coolant is channeled to radiator.
Again, I accept a radiator bypass and higher-temperature thermostat stabilizes coolant temperature more fully, and at a higher nominal operating temperature. Yet, seems to me the job of dissipating those BTUs is left up to the unchanged water pump, radiator, and fan (and air circulation from motion).
Good points, GoMotor!While the bypass still bypasses a little around the radiator with the t-stat fully open, the physically larger thermostat likely allows a little better flow and the total cooling capacity should be very close to stock.
I don't think I made myself clear. I do think the small flow through the bypass will reduce the cooling capacity, but very slightly. I don't think heat rejected through the bypass hose is significant. I do assume the larger thermostat in the Thermo-Bob housing has a bit larger wide-open opening then the smaller OEM thermostat allowing a little higher flow, but that is only an assumption.Good points, GoMotor!
Surely, some minimal flow might exist in the bypass plumbing when the thermostat is open. However, recirculating the hot coolant back into the engine without benefit of heat-exchanging in the radiator would do little to enhance cooling capacity, IMHO, although the bypass plumbing itself may offer some heat-exchanging effect.
As to the larger diameter of the Thermo-Bob thermostat, the device is placed "downstream" of the previously-existing restrictions in the cooling system; thus, I doubt significant flow increase would result.
A Thermo-Bob or alternate higher-temperature thermostat and radiator bypass may indeed offer greater cooling capacity; I just don't fully grasp the operational concept.