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Hello Members,
I have a 2013 650 KLR, only mod so far is a Two Brothers can.
Currently looking for a good aftermarket carb choice.
I am aware of the cheaper fixes, but the missus gave permission to spend.

Something to compliment the exhaust, and help with the low to mid range lean issues.

Please review and assistance is very much appreciated.

Thanks, Brad
 

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Here is a link to my experience:
http://rbemr.blogspot.com/2013/03/to-carb-or-not-to-carb-no-not-beemer-klr.html

The key take from a Mikuni VM38 is its ease of accessibility for tuning/maintenance. Takes away all the pain of a CVK. The drivability is increased due to better throttle response. Good mod for the price. Arrowhead Motorsports kit really is pretty much plug n play. Although I did my own from scratch, Fred's kit from Arrowhead is a good buy for the money. I've had exchanges with other that have bought the Arrowhead kit and they are happy. Can't touch a CVK for the price. No more choke plastic thing problem, no more diaphragm to fight, easily tunable with tons of parts easily available.
 

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Wansfel. Forgot about your Mikuni mod and didn't review fully the link I put up to the other thread. I'm on my phone and it's painful.

Do you know what is all included in Arrowheads kit? The picture on their site only shows the carb.

I would like to see a report covering the install and results of the Arrowhead kit. Bschmitty here's your opportunity.

.
 

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The Arrowhead kit includes a new single pull throttle and cable. Several jets are included which Fred based on my results posted in my blog. A standard VM38 is too long in the snouts to fit the standard rubber on the KLR so Fred has them trimmed. He also installs a vacuum port for the petcock (and a block of cap for those that bypass the vacuum petcock). As I say, pretty much plug-n-play.

I happened to be in Moab a week ago on a three week trip (motorhome/jeep) and dropped in to say hi to Fred and got to see the kit on-site. He mentioned he sold one to a bloke in Australia whose buddy ordered a second kit as soon as they had installed the first.

Here is a redacted PM from the one buyer who contacted me directly. He mentions the starting which is a little different due to the of choke mechanism. I find it requires application of the choke in all cold starts, but fires quickly then you have to shut off the choke and keep the throttle up for just a few seconds when it settles in with no other input:
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Hello again Ron. Well the carb is running well. I've put about 1000 miles on it so far and can say that it is definitely an improvement over stock. I did have a bit of interference with the starter and the carb bottom and had to trim the nut at the bottom of the bowl to keep clearance. But other than that, not a bad install at all. I ended up with a bit different jetting than it came with. I'm currently running as follows...

260 main
#30 pilot
needle set on the 2nd slot
air screw 1 3/4 out
I do have my snorkel removed and 8 half inch holes drilled in the top of the airbox.
I'm at about 850' and don't really run higher than 2200' unless I'm in New Hampshire and then a max of 5000'

My only trouble has been a bit of difficulty in starting. It will start with choke on and run cleanly for about 15 seconds before burbling badly. I shut off the choke and it will stall. It will not start without choke from cold which I understand, but it will start from cold with no choke and just a slight amount of throttle added. Once started and held at just over idle speed of 1400RPM for maybe 20 seconds, it will hold idle with no problems.

Other than that issue, it runs great. Re-starts fine after running. Solid throttle response through all gears from the bottom to the top of the RPM range. Much better low end pull and I'd say certainly smoother there as well. Rolling on the throttle even as low as 1800RPM in 4th or 5th pulls straight away without chugging. I like it.

I'm not sure about the starting issue...thought maybe changing to a #25 pilot might help as I think I may be a little rich at idle as indicated by the choke starting scenario I mentioned. But my jetting and tuning skills aren't great yet so I'm sort of just guessing at that.

I just wanted to give you an update and once again thank you for all the great info you've provided. As you said, it prolly is one of the better mods out there for the KLR. I look forward to putting many miles on this setup this year between commuting and camping.

Gxxx
 

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Something to compliment the exhaust, and help with the low to mid range lean issues.
Your call, certainly, but . . . I think you can "complement the exhaust" by jetting the Keihin CVK40 on the bike; also, shimming the needle (or replacing it with a KLX needle) can address "low to mid-range lean issues."

An aftermarket slide and/or pumper carb offers faster throttle response, but cannot improve optimum air/fuel ratios of a properly jetted and tuned CVK40, AFAIK.

Or maybe it can; maybe it has less restriction and thus improved performance.
 

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Your call, certainly, but . . . I think you can "complement the exhaust" by jetting the Keihin CVK40 on the bike; also, shimming the needle (or replacing it with a KLX needle) can address "low to mid-range lean issues."

An aftermarket slide and/or pumper carb offers faster throttle response, but cannot improve optimum air/fuel ratios of a properly jetted and tuned CVK40, AFAIK.

Or maybe it can; maybe it has less restriction and thus improved performance.
Going to follow your advice.
KLX needle, and re-jet.
makes sense, and less expensive.

Thanks, Brad...
 

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Going to follow your advice.
KLX needle, and re-jet.
makes sense, and less expensive.

Thanks, Brad...
You're welcome, Brad!

Of course, you can save even more money; one # 4 washer vs. a KLX needle! :)

If you go to the KLX needle, check out what others say about the proper main jet size.
 
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