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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi folks! Looking for assistance if you would please. I have a 2022 KLR...

1. Is there a preferred air filter for this machine? On other bikes I use a K&N yet I have heard that many like Sprint filters for sport bikes.

2. What about oil filters? Does anyone use the reusable metal mesh ones? Are there any dos and don'ts with this machine?

For me, this KLR is a "Brand New Adventure" in every sense of the word, so I am totally without experience here! Thanks!!
 

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Personally I would never use a K&N air filter for any application but that’s a discussion on it’s own.

There are a couple of air filter options such as the UNI or No Toil. I prefer to use the OEM filter. Properly oiled it works just fine. I have an extra so I can make a quick swap and delay the cleaning to another day.

For oil filter I generally use the Hi-Flo. On occasion I buy a Wix as they come packaged with the o-rings. Haven’t purchased for awhile so don’t know if that is still the case. I was given a couple K&N oil filters and it’s hard to see any difference between it at the Hi-Flo and twice the price.

Don’t overthink this, use the KISS principle.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Personally I would never use a K&N air filter for any application but that’s a discussion on it’s own.

There are a couple of air filter options such as the UNI or No Toil. I prefer to use the OEM filter. Properly oiled it works just fine. I have an extra so I can make a quick swap and delay the cleaning to another day.

For oil filter I generally use the Hi-Flo. On occasion I buy a Wix as they come packaged with the o-rings. Haven’t purchased for awhile so don’t know if that is still the case. I was given a couple K&N oil filters and it’s hard to see any difference between it at the Hi-Flo and twice the price.

Don’t overthink this, use the KISS principle.
Thank you, KLR Administrator. A couple of things:
1. Why don't you like the K&N air filters? I want this bike to breathe. I think the latest KLRs are very restricted but I cannot be certain. They worked great on a Mustang and a few Harleys.
2. I have seen reviews and videos of K&N Oil Filters. When they are opened up, they are the exact same thing as other brands, albeit at a higher price!
3. If you wouldn't mind, I'd love to hear about the negative aspects of the K&N Air filter.
4. Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Use the search function, please.
Use the search function, please.
Westman, I used the search function before I asked the question. Among the things I could not find were the following:

1. When searching "metal oil filters" I found discussion about either "metal in the oil filter" or talk about micron sizes but nothing in terms of recommendations yea or nay. When I searched for "reusable oil filters" I did find discussion, but not on the Gen 3 bikes, and since I am not certain if there are engine differences regarding this particular issues (though I know that other engine parameters have changed) I can't afford to do something that will either not benefit or actually hurt my bike. I need to be certain.
2. I got one response regarding the K&N air filter and the poster (an Administrator) preferred the stock filter since he stated that he would never use a K&N air filter in any application.
3. I have found some information with the searches, but perhaps there are other 2022 recommendations from Forum members that I cannot find.
 

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On occasion I buy a Wix as they come packaged with the o-rings. Haven’t purchased for awhile so don’t know if that is still the case.
Wix filters do still come with the O ring. They cost more than the filter alone at my local dealer, but the dealer charges $6 for the O ring, so if you need one, the Wix is a better deal. Last one I bought at NAPA was about $12 IIRC. Filter only at my dealer is $9.
 

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I have found some information with the searches, but perhaps there are other 2022 recommendations from Forum members that I cannot find.
So here is the situation. The Gen 3 model is still relatively new. Just guessing I figure we may have about a dozen people here on the Forum who have this bike. Just guessing again, most, if not all, of those owners are new to the KLR or possibly returning to a KLR. You aren't going to find a lot of discussion and recommendations concerning the new model - YET. It will come but it will take some time. What we need is for those owners to post their findings when trying some aftermarket farkel etc.

As far as the new model is concerned the engine remains basically the same. Your question regarding oil and air filters is not unique to the Gen 3 model. What works in a Gen 1 or 2 in that regard will work in a Gen 3. Thus the encouragement to use the Search function as this has been talked about numerous times.

You likely won't find that much discussion concerning the reusable oil filter. I don't think it's a popular item among KLR owners. The Hi-Flo can be had for a pretty reasonable price especially if you buy in bulk.

Here's a thread that may be of interest. Oil filter -psi drop per brand ?

Lastly and again - you can never go wrong with OEM parts and recommendations in your manual.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
So here is the situation. The Gen 3 model is still relatively new. Just guessing I figure we may have about a dozen people here on the Forum who have this bike. Just guessing again, most, if not all, of those owners are new to the KLR or possibly returning to a KLR. You aren't going to find a lot of discussion and recommendations concerning the new model - YET. It will come but it will take some time. What we need is for those owners to post their findings when trying some aftermarket farkel etc.

As far as the new model is concerned the engine remains basically the same. Your question regarding oil and air filters is not unique to the Gen 3 model. What works in a Gen 1 or 2 in that regard will work in a Gen 3. Thus the encouragement to use the Search function as this has been talked about numerous times.

You likely won't find that much discussion concerning the reusable oil filter. I don't think it's a popular item among KLR owners. The Hi-Flo can be had for a pretty reasonable price especially if you buy in bulk.

Here's a thread that may be of interest. Oil filter -psi drop per brand ?

Lastly and again - you can never go wrong with OEM parts and recommendations in your manual.
KLR4ever, thank you for an excellent and most reasonable response. This is my first KLR. My immediate concern is that with about 70 miles on the bike, within a few rides I will need an oil change.

I never owned a Dual Sport or an Adventure bike, and somehow this one manages to split that category at 60/40 or 70/30. I had dirt bikes as a Kid and mostly Harley Cruisers and Touring Bikes later on. I do have a Yamaha MT-10 Super Naked as well. I seem to love all bikes. I wanted a KLR for a long time, and for all the trash talk about this Gen3, I love it. Sure I wish it had some more steam and a 6th gear, but overall I think it is a work of art, though at 5' 10" this is the tallest bike I ever owned.

I do appreciate your time and your information!

P.S.: I use Hi Flo oil filters for my 1000cc Yamaha 4 cylinder Super Naked as it is highly recommended. I see it's a good choice for this bike as well, although I see nothing yet for anything past the 2020 KLR on their website. Thanks again.
 

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Wouldn't over-think optimization of air and oil filter brands. I doubt any maintenance issue could be traced to variations in filter brand performance, assuming recommended cleaning/changing mileage interval discipline observed.

But, maybe not. Maybe I inflict engine abuse for every mile I ride with the filter brands I have chosen of the moment.

YMMV!
 

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Rated PG-13 Parents Strongly Cautioned. Some material may not be suited for children under age 13. This response is in no way meant to sound or be turse, but if it seems that way to you it's out of my control.

Motorcycles are meant to be ridden. Not fussed over which filter brand blocks 1/1000s more microns than another. I'm sure the motorcycle manufacturers of each brand have their own aftermarket filter recommendations. Unless you’re a Professional Paris to Dakar rally rider for Team Green would it really matter on weight or micron filtering? I'm not sure if ANY manufacturer of ANY aftermarket air/oil filter gives a rat's butt about how well it will protect you from the dirt you'll encounter. They don't have a vested interest in the brand motorcycle you’re riding as does the manufacture of said motor. They want your money just like everyone else. As everyone here knows I'm an OEM rider (of all my MCs). So what, an oil/air filter costs a little more at my Kawasaki Dealership. Is that all wrong? Moreover, I've stated this before, NO I'm not made of money by any stretch of the imagination. Do you think Kawasaki is going to purposefully supply their dealers with subpar filters just so individual's will destroy their bikes in order to get them to come back and purchase another? I think not. Is it all hype regarding the idea to use only OEM? If so, then I'm in. Do yourself a favor and use OEM. Takes the worry out of "which filter should I use"? You take care of your motorcycle with constant oil changes including oil filters and wash and oil your OEM air filter properly and that motorcycle should last you a very long time.

If you live some distance from a Kawasaki dealership then purchase several filters. Don’t piss and mown about how far away your nearest dealership is. If this is offensive, or hard for you (or others here) to hear, then maybe your skin isn't as thick as it should be. It's only a matter of common sense - I guess mine.

Now that I've thoroughly rubbed every reader of this thread the wrong way you can reduce your thoughts of me to be scourged at sundown. Or pin my Avatar to your downstairs dart board to reduce your angry thoughts regarding what a total a**hole I am.
 
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Sounds like you reject the fact, KBear: Kawasaki motorcycle designers, engineers, manufacturers, and marketeers are ALL simply old meanies, who don't want anyone to have any fun!

Thus, for example: Kawasaki specifies broad oil viscosity (based upon ambient temperature) and API standards, precipitating early maintenance failures and consequent misery for Kawasaki riders.

Inside Kawasaki offices and factories, all employees have a hearty laugh with every motorcycle sold, celebrating their little cosmic joke played on customers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Wouldn't over-think optimization of air and oil filter brands. I doubt any maintenance issue could be traced to variations in filter brand performance, assuming recommended cleaning/changing mileage interval discipline observed.

But, maybe not. Maybe I inflict engine abuse for every mile I ride with the filter brands I have chosen of the moment.

YMMV!
Thank you D. Yet my concern is more regarding improving performance. I know that any good oil and any proper filter meeting spec would do well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Rated PG-13 Parents Strongly Cautioned. Some material may not be suited for children under age 13. This response is in no way meant to sound or be turse, but if it seems that way to you it's out of my control.

Motorcycles are meant to be ridden. Not fussed over which filter brand blocks 1/1000s more microns than another. I'm sure the motorcycle manufacturers of each brand have their own aftermarket filter recommendations. Unless you’re a Professional Paris to Dakar rally rider for Team Green would it really matter on weight or micron filtering? I'm not sure if ANY manufacturer of ANY aftermarket air/oil filter gives a rat's butt about how well it will protect you from the dirt you'll encounter. They don't have a vested interest in the brand motorcycle you’re riding as does the manufacture of said motor. They want your money just like everyone else. As everyone here knows I'm an OEM rider (of all my MCs). So what, an oil/air filter costs a little more at my Kawasaki Dealership. Is that all wrong? Moreover, I've stated this before, NO I'm not made of money by any stretch of the imagination. Do you think Kawasaki is going to purposefully supply their dealers with subpar filters just so individual's will destroy their bikes in order to get them to come back and purchase another? I think not. Is it all hype regarding the idea to use only OEM? If so, then I'm in. Do yourself a favor and use OEM. Takes the worry out of "which filter should I use"? You take care of your motorcycle with constant oil changes including oil filters and wash and oil your OEM air filter properly and that motorcycle should last you a very long time.

If you live some distance from a Kawasaki dealership then purchase several filters. Don’t piss and mown about how far away your nearest dealership is. If this is offensive, or hard for you (or others here) to hear, then maybe your skin isn't as thick as it should be. It's only a matter of common sense - I guess mine.

Now that I've thoroughly rubbed every reader of this thread the wrong way you can reduce your thoughts of me to be scourged at sundown. Or pin my Avatar to your down stairs dart board to reduce your angry thoughts regarding what a total a**hole I am.
Not at all KBear. No offense of any kind taken whatsoever. I in fact prefer OEM in almost all areas regarding my vehicles. My question mostly regards a performance increase. I have swapped air out filters in my old KDX400 2 stroke and had VERY substantial power gains with everything else stock. I had the same effect putting K&N air filters on a couple of Harleys. The effect was not psychological due to hearing increased induction roar. I had a 2010 FatBoy that would start running out of steam at about 3,500 RPM. It was as though they left a shop rag stuffed in the intake! The K&N on the otherwise stock bike transformed it entirely!
 

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What would be good for newcomers to the KLR to understand is that there is no low-hanging fruit that will cause a 'transformation' in performance. That's pretty much 'period, end, full stop, go no further'.

With the Gen 1 and Gen 2 bikes, the most transformational changes were to install a freer-flowing exhaust, drill holes in the airbox, and install a KLX needle. All of this could be done for less than a benjie (you just cored out the stock exhaust for increased flow). This would buy you a couple of horsepower.

With the 2022 you are stuck with a lean fuel map, courtesy of the EFI. The analog of the $40 KLX needle to fix the AFR is the $300 Power Commander, so even the easy fix for more power through richer AFR is out of the 'low hanging fruit' realm. But, hey, all y'all wanted EFI. Go see Ryan's video...

Going beyond a couple of horsepower got you into serious money and effort. Things like Wössner 11:1 compression ratio pistons, ported heads, big valves, cam timing, hi-lift cams can run into 20 benjies and net you another 3-4 horsepower. I'll attach as much as I can of KLRChris' work to get to 60 horsepower with a full set of mods and a hi-zoot EFI system; his expenditure was incalculable in terms of dollars and hours.

A stock or UNI filter in the airbox is hard to beat. The OEM, HiFloFiltro, and K&N oil filters are identical. These will work as well as can be expected. The stainless filter is something one might carry on a true around-the-world trip where the availability of a paper filter would be sketchy. It would be better than running no filter.
 

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My question mostly regards a performance increase. I have swapped air out filters in my old KDX400 2 stroke and had VERY substantial power gains with everything else stock. I had the same effect putting K&N air filters on a couple of Harleys. The effect was not psychological due to hearing increased induction roar. I had a 2010 FatBoy that would start running out of steam at about 3,500 RPM. It was as though they left a shop rag stuffed in the intake! The K&N on the otherwise stock bike transformed it entirely!
OK, first off my comments are for 2018 and prior though it likely applies to the Gen3 as well; the K&N's filter poorly.....that may be OK on a street bike, it's far less OK on a dirt bike or dual sport....BUT even if you don't believe me on the filtration quality, the K&N has been proven/flow tested to flow POORLY in the KLR due to the metal end cap and airbox configuration......ergo, there is NO good reason to use a K&N air filter on the KLR. For those wanting additional flow, the airbox IS fairly restrictive and benefits from the "L-mod" or 4-1" holes on the top of the airbox on the dirty side along with a UNI Filter and the jetting MUST be changed or it will run too lean. Popular jetting upgrade is the KLX kit and I also run an MCP kit in my 2000 but I have no idea what the EFI on the Gen3 needs or how much it's able to compensate for increased airflow.

Oil filter? I use OEM but as long as you change the oil regularly, I doubt it matters.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
OK, first off my comments are for 2018 and prior though it likely applies to the Gen3 as well; the K&N's filter poorly.....that may be OK on a street bike, it's far less OK on a dirt bike or dual sport....BUT even if you don't believe me on the filtration quality, the K&N has been proven/flow tested to flow POORLY in the KLR due to the metal end cap and airbox configuration......ergo, there is NO good reason to use a K&N air filter on the KLR. For those wanting additional flow, the airbox IS fairly restrictive and benefits from the "L-mod" or 4-1" holes on the top of the airbox on the clean side along with a UNI Filter and the jetting MUST be changed or it will run too lean. Popular jetting upgrade is the KLX kit and I also run an MCP kit in my 2000 but I have no idea what the EFI on the Gen3 needs or how much it's able to compensate for increased airflow.

Oil filter? I use OEM but as long as you change the oil regularly, I doubt it matters.

Dave
Thanks D. This is PRECISELY the type of feedback / commentary I was looking for. I know that some people are removing the snorkel from the Gen3 and others are removing the small side panel. This may or may not be a good idea. For my application, I would remove the side panel and ride it around for a half hour or so. That way if a lean condition is observed I can simply replace the panel rather than have drilled holes in the box. With the fuel injection we cannot make carb type adjustments and must go the Power Commander type module approach or just leave it alone. Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
What would be good for newcomers to the KLR to understand is that there is no low-hanging fruit that will cause a 'transformation' in performance. That's pretty much 'period, end, full stop, go no further'.

With the Gen 1 and Gen 2 bikes, the most transformational changes were to install a freer-flowing exhaust, drill holes in the airbox, and install a KLX needle. All of this could be done for less than a benjie (you just cored out the stock exhaust for increased flow). This would buy you a couple of horsepower.

With the 2022 you are stuck with a lean fuel map, courtesy of the EFI. The analog of the $40 KLX needle to fix the AFR is the $300 Power Commander, so even the easy fix for more power through richer AFR is out of the 'low hanging fruit' realm. But, hey, all y'all wanted EFI. Go see Ryan's video...

Going beyond a couple of horsepower got you into serious money and effort. Things like Wössner 11:1 compression ratio pistons, ported heads, big valves, cam timing, hi-lift cams can run into 20 benjies and net you another 3-4 horsepower. I'll attach as much as I can of KLRChris' work to get to 60 horsepower with a full set of mods and a hi-zoot EFI system; his expenditure was incalculable in terms of dollars and hours.

A stock or UNI filter in the airbox is hard to beat. The OEM, HiFloFiltro, and K&N oil filters are identical. These will work as well as can be expected. The stainless filter is something one might carry on a true around-the-world trip where the availability of a paper filter would be sketchy. It would be better than running no filter.
Excellent read Tom. Thank you. I have been hearing lots of good about the UNI filter also. Sadly, UNI does not list an air filter for a KLR650 after model year 2020 on their website... Thanks again.
 
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