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Discussion Starter #1
Just wanted to hear what you all use for oiling your OEM air filter, and why you choose it?
 

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The fine pore foam of the OEM air filter was/is intended to use engine oil. I use SAE40 on it, instead of 10W40. Clean up of the dirty air box is easier, because it stays oilier. (I don't bother cleaning the box very often.) It's just gonna' get dirty again, because engine oil creeps, everywhere!

The fine pored OEM air filter actually works longer with my chosen SAE40 than with stickey stuff and is easier to clean than stickey stuff, IMHO.

SAE40 works great on Twin-Air brand foam filters also.
 

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I use Maxima FFT. I bought it for my UNI filter, which is more porous than the stock air filter. I have three stock filters, though, and wound up using it on them, too.

It seems like a good oil that performs pretty well but it does have some downsides.

It is really sticky stuff, so it is both hard to apply and hard to clean. It takes real effort to do either job. Well, kerosene does a pretty quick job of cleaning, but using a detergent is tough. Hard to be green with it. I imagine gas would be quicker still, but I haven't tried that.

The stuff seems to get stickier when exposed to air. It comes out of the bottle OK, but if you try to massage it into the filter and get it evenly spread around it acts like it gets stickier pretty quickly and doesn't want to move. I have to put an ounce or so on a filter and quickly drop it into a bag, squeeze the air out, and then massage the crap out of it. I think it may have a bit of solvent in it that flashes off.

It's a nice pretty blue color, so when it is evenly distributed in the stock filter you can see a light green color on the filter.

You need to use gloves, too, because it doesn't come off of anything it gets onto.

I've done each filter a couple of times and am thinking of just going back to motor oil for the stock filters and using this stuff on the UNI. Or maybe I'll give it to my neighbor and tell him it is the best thing for his KTM. His dog pooped in my yard a couple months ago. Revenge is a dish best served cold.

It's not what I would choose if I had to clean and oil a filter every couple thousand miles. Cleaning and oiling a batch every 10K miles is OK. I just got to that point today ;^(...
 
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Has anyone tried the No Toil air filter oil? Tom, you mentioned in your post that the oil you use is very sticky and a pain to clean. The no toil is non-toxic, biodegradable, and comes with a detergent made specifically for that oil. The oil is thin when applied and becomes "sticky" like the oil you mentioned. Only, I don't think it's as sticky as yours. It is much easier to apply than what you describe (stays fluid longer). It has a red color to it, so it is easy to ensure even application.

The detergent is easy to use also. All you gotta do is put some warm water in a bucket, mix in the specified amount of detergent, submerge the filter, squeeze it while holding it under the water, release you grip and voila! All clean!

I have used this oil on factory filters as well as Uni brand filters on my dirt bikes, quads, 3 wheelers, street bikes, chainsaws, you get the idea. I realize not everyone likes to use this type of system, but I thought I would bring it up since you are already using a similar product.

Antwon
 

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NoToil has always sounded pretty good, but it is one of those things that I have heard cautions about. That has kind of put me off of trying it.

There were complaints of seam separation on filters and hardening of filters. Stories varied as to whether it was the new oil only or both oils. I guess one is red and one is green, the first being petroleum based and the second being a bio-degradable oil.

I also heard that only the No-Toil cleaner would clean the oil out of the filters. Not a show-stopper for me as I don't often clean a filter on the road. I carry extras if I think I'm going to need a fresh filter.

To be fair, I have heard more reports of "never had a problem, been using it for years" than I have heard reports of problems.
 
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Tom,
I have only used the RED biodegradable flavor. I have not experienced any of the issues you mentioned. You are correct about using only the No Toil brand cleaner, but it works very well.
 

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I use aerosol-can air filter oil on my air filter foam.

A confession. Very un-KLRista behavior.

Yet . . ., "An honest confession is good for the soul."

:)

Oh, yes; the question, "Why?" isn't answered. Well, the stuff is purpose-manufactured, and most convenient in application, with the aerosol can valve and plastic delivery tube. The amount and location of filter oil applied can be controlled with some precision and with minimum mess.

While the "store-bought" specialty filter oil is more expensive than plain ol' garden-variety 30 W (or 40 W), how much of this stuff will one use? What is the difference, in cost-per-mile, of the aerosol goop versus motor oil? Projected overall service life cost delta? Not a deal-breaker, I think, for me; YMMV!

Would I insist on carrying a filter oil can on a trip through the Gobi Desert? Maybe not; I might depend upon the lubricant available at the next oasis, in that instance.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
“Specialty” oil filter oil claims aside, has there been any comparisons done as to the effectiveness of them over using engine oil?

I haven’t googled for any, I’m more curious about tests done here on this forum.
 

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Over the years I have had the opportunity to use pretty much all of the options. I settled on Maxima FFT years ago for any bike ridden on the street. The reason being it just laughs at water infiltration and I ride in the rain. Some bikes are more inclined to get moisture in the filter than others, especially if running foam pods. The FFT won't let it through or wash. It also stays put......it doesn't "sag" to the bottom portion of the filter over time. It's good stuff.

Last year I decided to try the green No Toil kit and am using my nieces DR100 filter as the test. I think it works fine if applied correctly......the main thing being let it set for 24 hours before using it. if you don't it will run to the bottom.....if you do it seems fine. I see no dust in the intake and it seems fine with small amounts of moisture but not near what the FFT is.
 

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“Specialty” oil filter oil claims aside, has there been any comparisons done as to the effectiveness of them over using engine oil?

I haven’t googled for any, I’m more curious about tests done here on this forum.
Can't find independent comparative test data, but . . . "non-settling," as a characteristic of the tacky "specialty" oils, may be a tangible, observable marker: Whether air filter oil coats the interior of the air box or not--crankcase oil may be more likely to flow.

Regardless; the praises of Genuine Kawasaki motor oil have been sung on this forum; we should not ignore the prowess of Genuine Kawasaki Air Filter Oil:

https://www.kawasaki.com/accessories/item/kawasaki-performance-air-filter-oil/K61021506

:)
 

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Engine oil may be what the manual states but proper foam filter oil is far superior IMO as it's far more tacky and holds/stops dirt better. I usually use Bel Ray foam filter oil, make sure to get full coverage in and out by saturating and wringing it out.....then I apply white lithium grease on the lip to ensure a proper seal.

......I've tried No Toil (destroyed three filters), engine oil and most everything else you can think of but I've stuck with the above formula for 20 years or so now; it's managed to get me through a couple hundred offroad races without issue.....some of them so dusty you couldn't see 10' in front of you for 4 hours!

JMHO

Dave
 

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NoToil has always sounded pretty good, but it is one of those things that I have heard cautions about. That has kind of put me off of trying it.

There were complaints of seam separation on filters and hardening of filters. Stories varied as to whether it was the new oil only or both oils. I guess one is red and one is green, the first being petroleum based and the second being a bio-degradable oil.

I also heard that only the No-Toil cleaner would clean the oil out of the filters. Not a show-stopper for me as I don't often clean a filter on the road. I carry extras if I think I'm going to need a fresh filter.

To be fair, I have heard more reports of "never had a problem, been using it for years" than I have heard reports of problems.
I had three filters come apart using No Toil so I stopped using it. They all came apart at the seams as the cleaner destroyed the glue. I've heard that they've revised the formula since (that was 10-15 years ago) but I'm kinda a "fool me once..." type of guy and since the Bel Ray (or equivalent) foam filter oils work great, I've not bothered to try it again.

Cheers,
Dave
 

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Just wanted to hear what you all use for oiling your OEM air filter, and why you choose it?
We are already loosing track of the original question, "for oiling your OEM air filter".
Sort of like our complaints against FB.

I never mentioned cleaning of my air filters, so I will.

In the shop, I start by blowing the weed seeds & chunky stuff off with compressed air. Then a wash in solvent or gasoline to break-down the petroleum oil and any petroleum grease on the flange. (On a road trip in the back-country, one could wash twice in gasoline only. Dry it, oil it, re-install it. Burn the gasoline.)

Then I squeeze the foam as tightly as possible and use compressed air to blow 99% of the solvent out of the foam.
Then it is time for a soap & warm water wash, I prefer laundry detergent rather than dishwash. Warning, HOT Water has destroyed many glue seams
In sandy conditions, it can be quite amazing how deeply the grit can penetrate into the Courser or 2 stage foam filters. I usually soap twice on sandy filters.
Then I rinse twice. Squeeze & blow & allow an hour in sunshine & breeze to air dry. Or air dry overnight.

When 100% dry, use enough oil to massage thru & thru and then squeeze out all the excess. (Do not twist!)

Tom Schmitz once measured, I believe 3 tablespoons or 1.5 oz to be nearly perfect, IIRC. Of course that was his 'sticky stuff'. ;)
 

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Ditto on Paul's warning on hot water as well as "squeezing vs. twisting"....my "wringing it out" comment was ill put.

Even with the stock filter I use/used foam filter oil because I believe it's better. My filter cleaning process;

- I clean the filters in gasoline, with 2-3 rounds of fresh gas depending on how dirty it is. Yes gas is flammable and it's bad for your skin (i wear gloves) but it's handy, I already have it in abundance and it dries far more quickly than water. after the final rinse/squeeze, I use some paper towel and squeeze it again.
- I let it sit for 15 - 30 minutes so most of the remaining gasoline evaporates
- I pour on the filter oil and squeeze it into the filter so it's completely covered inside and out
- I apply the white grease to the lip
- I install the filter back on the bike.

.....I have several filters for each bike so I'll usually clean all the spares at once (saves on gas and gloves!) and then put the prepped filters (oil but no grease) into a zip lock bag so they are ready to use.

Cheers,
Dave
 

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That's, Genuine Kawasaki motor oil, right?

:)
Well, Actually it is!
It is in the old owners handbooks. It used to be an SAE30.

But I am down to my last 2 quarts of #K61021-051.
It is/was the SAE40, 2 Cycle, Premium Engine Oil. Which had been used in the KE100 / H2-750 and other oil injected, 2 cycle, dual-sport & street only models dating back to the early & mid 70's when I started working here.
Been using it on foam air filters, since long before 'Specialty Air Filter Oil' was produced.

It became an NLA item 2 years ago! Was quite a bit cheaper than Bel-Ray or others. The KLR way, right? :)
 

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When I clean a foam oiled filter I never just wash it in solvent or a bucket of soapy water. Doing it that way gets the grit on the clean side and no doubt over the next few thousand miles into the cylinder. I "flush" it from the clean side to the dirty side using clean kerosene, let it sit a few minutes to start melting the old oil and releasing the dirt from the foam, then I flush some more from the clean side to dirty. Then after no more dirt is coming out I massage some dawn dish soap on the outside of the foam and then hose it all out again from the clean side out. Air dry and then I use that lucas oil stabilizer for the oiling as it is super sticky and pure petrolium. Another good oil would be bar and chain oil , again for it's tacky properties. As for what we use for the oil, the important thing is to use enough to get all the pores saturated with it and of heavy enough grade to not just run to the bottom with gravity.
 

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In the shop, like to use high volume compressed air to blow the fuzzy, chunky crap off of the outside of foam air filters before even getting them wet with any kind of solvent. (But one doesn't always own or have access to shop air compressor.)

Once the heavy crap is off of the outside and the next step of solvent washing has broken down/removed most of the old filter oil & possibly sealing grease the excess solvent needs to be squeezed out, blotted out or aired out. If one does not have the option of, or the time for a proper soapy water bath, rinsing & drying time then the foam should receive 2 solvent washes. Once the foam air filter has been Thoroughly Re-Oiled the oil Will Prevent any remaining particulates from being sucked out of or thru the foam air filter and into the engine.


I don't get as fussy about absolutely keeping separation of cleaning solvent or soapy water from the Inside of the foam as PaddyD just explained.

The way I see it, is that the solvent wash breaks down the oils & grease. Then a thorough soap & water washing gets the solvent & the last of the particulates out.
If I happen to see much particulates in the bottom of my second clear rinse, the filter will usually get a second soapy washing & another 2 rinses. Then the foam air filter must be 100% dry before re-oiling.
 

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I am happy to see that my routine for air filter cleaning is similar to Pdwestman's because I respect his experience and knowledge.

My system is mainly based on convenience and minimal tools and supplies required. Often I am traveling and cleaning the filter in a motel parking lot or in the woods and I don't want to carry a parts store full of supplies with me for filter maintenance.

I carry a pint/500ml of engine oil with me in a hard Nalgen camping bottle that won't crush in the saddle bag in a tip over not the flimsy container oil is sold in. I use the cheep plastic gloves I retrieved with my Subway sandwich to remove the filter. To clean the filter I siphon some gas into a Subway Sandwich bag with the filter and squeeze it to clean it. If necessary I'll do this twice. I put engine oil on the filter and squeeze it out in the bag. I don't use grease on the edges of the filter because it seems to me that the filter cage has a flat surface that mates to the flat surface in the air box and is squeezed tight by the mounting screw and the filter flange is oiled like the rest of the filter.
 
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