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Discussion Starter #1
Who among us has used the All Balls rear wheel bearing kit, part #25-1056 (KYA30-08A)?
And then had installation interference with the swing arm Width!

I think that the Left Hand bearings must have been .010-.020 inches Wider than the old OEM bearings! I Will Not remove them to measure them, but something is apparently incorrect.
I had to 'spread' the swing arm, to re-install the wheel. Could be a real pain on the trail!

78,323 miles on the OEM bearings and many, many rear tires. The sprocket bearing had just a bit of 'roughness'.

I also replaced rear sprocket, drive chain and rear brake pads.
 

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Paul, I think I have the All Balls rear bearings and some SKF bearings. Would you like me to measure them?

I don't have any OEM, so you'd have to provide that measurement off of your old one.

If you want me to measure it, tell me the bearing number.

Tom
 

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You may want to rethink checking those bearings Paul.
In my professional experience bearings are held to EXTREMELY tight tolerances, in the 2/10000ths range. For a bearing to be 10 to 20/1000ths over width is almost unthinkable. The more plausible explanation for your issue would be if a bearing is not fully seated in the housing, perhaps from debris getting trapped behind/between the bearing and the housing/hub. If this is what has happened the bearing will fail quickly due to the improper spacing between the inner races of the hub bearings. This distance, normally maintained by the hub spacer sleeve, is critical as it maintains the running alignment of the inner and outer bearing races. If there is debris trapped behind the outer race this will have the same effect as having a spacer sleeve that is too short. When you tighten the axel it will put a huge side load on the hub bearings by squishing the two inner bearing races together while the outer races are held further apart by the debris behind one of the outer bearing races.
You can check this condition by removing the wheel and inspecting the hub spacer. It should be held snugly between the two hub bearings with no evident freeplay.
Aside of debris trapped behind a bearing race, a bearing just not fully seated in the housing can produce the same effect.
Best Regards....JustJeff
 

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Sorry Paul, I don't have the AB 6004.

Gotta agree with JJ, too.

Tom
 

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bearing dimensions
1)sprocket...6003......17mmx35mmx10mm wide.....0.3937"
2)middle.....6004.......20mmx42mmx12mm wide.....0.4724"
3)right side....6204....20mmx47mmx14mm wide.....0.5512"

bearing numbers from Toms handy spec sheet for gen2 pdf2
jj
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Paul, I think I have the All Balls rear bearings and some SKF bearings. Would you like me to measure them?

I don't have any OEM, so you'd have to provide that measurement off of your old one.

If you want me to measure it, tell me the bearing number.

Tom
Thank you Tom.
1987 OEM "Nachi Brand".
Sprocket Bearing, 6004NSL, Width, I.R. .4710 inch / O.R. .4710 inch. The circlip in the sprocket hub slipped in with no issues.

L.H. Wheel Bearing, 6003, Width, I.R. .3913 inch / O.R. .3918 inch.

R.H. Wheel Bearing, 6204NSL, Width, I.R. .5496 inch / O.R. .5496 inch.
The circlip on the R.H. bearing slipped in with no issues, so I'll assume 'no-problem'.

JJ,
I'm 99.99% certain that the bearing bores in the sprocket and wheel hubs were clean.

With a circlip on the sprocket hub and on the RH of wheel hub, it would seem the possible problem could be the LH wheel bearing or an un-clean LH bore. NUTS!
 

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Paul,
Though I am surprised at the amount of variance from standard I agree with your logic. Out of curiosity what are you using for a measuring device?
JJ
 

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Paul,

OR=.3932
IR=.3937

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Paul,
Though I am surprised at the amount of variance from standard I agree with your logic. Out of curiosity what are you using for a measuring device?
JJ
JJ,
I'm using a 0-1 inch micrometer. Just now checked with a 1.00 inch standard!
 

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Well the amount of variance noted is not causing your wheel to be wide enough to have to spring your swing arm open to get the wheel in. I have had bearings pick up and gall the bore during installation a time or two. Makes a real mess of things!
JJ
 

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Discussion Starter #11
bearing dimensions
1)sprocket...6003......17mmx35mmx10mm wide.....0.3937"
2)middle.....6004.......20mmx42mmx12mm wide.....0.4724"
3)right side....6204....20mmx47mmx14mm wide.....0.5512"

bearing numbers from Toms handy spec sheet for gen2 pdf2
jj
JJ,
There is an ERROR in your info.
The Sprocket bearing has a LARGER OD than the LH Wheel bearing.

But ir-regardless of couple of thousands of the widths of your bearings and my OEM bearings does not compute to the forcing of installation of ALL BALLS bearings.
 

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I AM sorry Paul. I mixed up the bearing list when I copied it from the spec sheet.
Sprocket(left) bearing 6004....20x42x12 wide....0.4724"
middle bearing 6003....17x35x10 wide....0.3937"
right bearing 6204....20x47x14 wide....0.5512"
Sorry for the confusion!
JJ
 

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Paul,

Let me know if you want me to measure the All Balls set I have (once I saw the big "made in china" stamped on them, I tossed them into my spare parts box and bought a decent set from the local autoparts store instead)

Cheers,
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Paul,

Let me know if you want me to measure the All Balls set I have (once I saw the big "made in china" stamped on them, I tossed them into my spare parts box and bought a decent set from the local autoparts store instead)

Cheers,
Dave
That would be much appreciated, Dave. Thank you in advance.

I remembered your posting or thread on the "made in china" All Balls bearings. I had even brought up their website back then, was it KLM or KML Bearings? Can't remember and I looked at the markings Sunday!

The WPS packaging #22-51056 has nothing about country of origin and neither did the seals on the bearings. I have had this set in my possession since Before your comments were posted. Part of the reason that I hadn't yet installed them.

Normk was almost appalled that I hadn't yet changed them, and that was about a 1,000 miles ago, (I was hoping for an even 80,000mi)! I had only re-lubed the exposed LH bearings a couple of times, never the RH.
 

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That would be much appreciated, Dave. Thank you in advance.

I remembered your posting or thread on the "made in china" All Balls bearings. I had even brought up their website back then, was it KLM or KML Bearings? Can't remember and I looked at the markings Sunday!

The WPS packaging #22-51056 has nothing about country of origin and neither did the seals on the bearings. I have had this set in my possession since Before your comments were posted. Part of the reason that I hadn't yet installed them.

Normk was almost appalled that I hadn't yet changed them, and that was about a 1,000 miles ago, (I was hoping for an even 80,000mi)! I had only re-lubed the exposed LH bearings a couple of times, never the RH.
OK, I'll dig them out and let you know what I find. They are at home so I should be able to find them tonight. It's possible that All Balls sources (or sourced) their bearings from different suppliers, but I distinctly remember large "made in china" lettering right on them. On an aside, I think bearings last a much longer time than many of us give them credit for.....as long as they are good quality and don't get contaminated with water or dirt.

Cheers,
Dave
 

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My All Balls are marked 'KML', so they are sourcing from a Hong Kong company that manufactures in China. There's no 'Made in China' marking on them or the box.

I swear I had a full set around here but can only find half the set. They came in a box of KLR junque that I inherited and got set aside, some obviously more than others.

I have two sets of SKF in the drawer that I will install someday...

Tom
 

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My apologies, I was confused: the set I still have and that are from "Pivot Works" are the ones with made in China stamped on the seals. The All Balls set I had must have been the swingarm and suspension bearings.... which I used. All I have now are the Pivot Works rear wheel bearings and a set of SKF fronts. :-(

FWIW (not much help, I know) the Pivot works bearings measured .393, .471 and .550" wide respectively.

Sorry Paul


Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Not a problem Dave. Thanks for the effort.

I'll probably remove the two LH bearings to measure and have a look. With heat they don't drive too hard.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Well, I pulled the axle this morning. There is currently a little clearance.
So as Jeff suggested, it must have been an Un-seated bearing, which would of had to been the LH wheel bearing. As the other two are captured by circlips.

Only explanation I have for That, would be dropping the steel spacer into the RH side of the hub Before the LH side had cooled down enough!

For those which haven't changed the rear wheel bearings, the LH side should be installed First. Because the flange on the center spacer will not pass thru the small hole on the left.

Anyways, I used the socket on the outer race of the LH wheel bearing again and put it back together. ( I Shoulda' done THAT Sunday evening! Nuts!)

Thanks for the assistance and encouraging words. Even we older/more experienced mechanics occasionally have snafu's!

ps, Its usually the simplest sh*t that we fail to have a second look at!
 

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Well, I pulled the axle this morning. There is currently a little clearance.
So as Jeff suggested, it must have been an Un-seated bearing, which would of had to been the LH wheel bearing. As the other two are captured by circlips..................................!
Just to clear my mind, are you saying that before installing the axle there was negative clearance requiring spreading and after snugging the axle nut and then removing the axle there was "a little clearance" as in snugging the axle nut pressed the bearing in giving a little clearance?
 
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