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2009 KLR650
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q.v., Post # 34 above.

If you'd prefer running a hotter (than stock) nominal operating temperature, a Thermo-Bob, with its higher (than stock) temperature thermostat, might fulfill your objective. As to, "consistent," temperature range, don't know of any damage caused by stock coolant temperature excursion (within manufacturer's design limits). Regardless, Thermo-Bob stabilizes coolant temperature, beyond stock cooling system's capability.
I do have a thermobob, thats where all of my temps where taken. It does stabilize the temp, it no longer runs really cool in the mornings or cold days, the switch is just a small step further, I dont think its good for it to regularly get 30-40F hotter if it sits around and idles, for the same reason it shouldnt sit below 160F without the thermobob. Should you actually let it sit and idle that long, no.
 

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the switch is just a small step further, I dont think its good for it to regularly get 30-40F hotter if it sits around and idles, for the same reason it shouldnt sit below 160F without the thermobob. Should you actually let it sit and idle that long, no.
DON'T let it sit and idle more than a long stop light! The cooling fan is on the LH side of the bike and the Coolant Reservoir is on the RH side. The coolant reservoir nipple is TOO Close to the HOT exhaust header pipe to Survive extended idling because of 'zero' cooling air flow! Look at Tom's Souperdoo pic.

The KLR engine cylinder Head will be just fine if it gets to 240-260F. Air cooled cylinder heads normally operate at 250-400F.
Maybe you ought to simply ADD a Temp Gauge scale?
See here, Coolant Temp Gauges and Overlays Archives - Watt-Man.com
 

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Registered
2009 KLR650
Joined
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169 Posts
DON'T let it sit and idle more than a long stop light! The cooling fan is on the LH side of the bike and the Coolant Reservoir is on the RH side. The coolant reservoir nipple is TOO Close to the HOT exhaust header pipe to Survive extended idling because of 'zero' cooling air flow! Look at Tom's Souperdoo pic.

The KLR engine cylinder Head will be just fine if it gets to 240-260F. Air cooled cylinder heads normally operate at 250-400F.
Maybe you ought to simply ADD a Temp Gauge scale?
See here, Coolant Temp Gauges and Overlays Archives - Watt-Man.com
I have a reservoir heat shield and a trailtech dash. Hopefully that and the switch will prevent accidents like that.
 
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