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08 KLR stock stock stock with doo-hickey.
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was riding with a buddy, his sportster battery totally gave up, and he needed a boost. I had cables. And tools to get to my battery.

Panniers off. Pannier bars off. Side panels off. Seat off. And then to get the clips on the battery.... We did get it going, everything back together, then it stalled. Take it all apart and do it over. Send the sportster riding home while I re-assemble my KLR and get home.

Couldn't it just be easy to hook up a boost?

I have some Anderson connectors kicking around, having scrounged about ten of them from UPS battery modules headed to scrap. So I put in six or eight inches of cable, and an Anderson connector, and now I can connect my booster in seconds with no disassembly. Simply grab my cables from the trunk.
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Now that this is set-up and tested by boost-starting my lawn tractor, I'm hoping Murphy's law applies; that with this setup my need to get or give a battery boost will be diminished.

I am not fussy with the spring-clamp type booster cable clamps. I would like to find something more positive, like a 50x big-sized test hook like on my oscilloscope probes. A test-hook would also have the benefit of being much more compact in the tool tube.

I have a fistfull of Anderson connectors left, I may now build a lighter socket and maybe even a usb charger source.
 

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As that would most likely not be fused, just make sure there is no way that the positive cable can rub through anywhere.
Turn your KLR into a welder!
 

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08 KLR stock stock stock with doo-hickey.
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Good point. Yes, the cable to the Anderson connector is unfused, just like the positive cable from the battery to the solenoid. My added-on positive cable goes along the top and over the side of the battery and down. There are no rub/pinch points, so far. But when the battery comes out for winter storage, and I inspect and verify the integrity of insulation of the positive cable to solenoid, I also have to check the cable to this Anderson Connector.
 

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I used to carry a set of motorcycle booster cables. Sold those when I bought a hand held booster pack. Beauty of the pack is it also has a flash light and can charge my phone or anything with a USB cable.
 
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Some owners have installed a Single positive Terminal into the long black plastic panel which covers the high amp starter relay. The single 8ga cable can be attached to the starter relay, rather than add more clutter on top of the battery.
Then connect ground cable to the sub-frame bolt.
 

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That is an excellent idea. I have a small air compressor and was going to wire a plug in for it.
 

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Some owners have installed a Single positive Terminal into the long black plastic panel which covers the high amp starter relay.
That is how I have done mine. Slid and taped some fuel line over the exposed part so there won't be any shorts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I need to explore more, if the hot-side of the solenoid is under that plastic cover, that indeed would have been the ideal place to connect, rather than the top of the battery.

The anderson type connectors I use are rated for 50 amps, which would be a continuous sustained load rating. Wiring my high-current ammeter in series with the lawn tractor when testing the KLR ability to boost, I observed 200 amps for a second or two as the 16hp kohler groaned over. The connector and cables did not get hot and the lawn tractor turned over and started with a boost from the KLR.

The Anderson connectors have the advantage of being non-gendered and polarized, and reasonably protected from accidental contact. So I can hook up my air compressor or heated vest or cable to sportster or whatever, and I can't hook it up backwards and I really have to be creative to accidentally short to ground with a passing wrench.

Yes, disassembling to the top of the battery is a pain. A little bar of copper coming off the hot-side solenoid terminal under that plastic cover will be a future rainy-day project for my KLR.
 

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For the few times, if ever, for boosting, those 50A andersons will be fine. You can also get a rubber cover for the anderson plug which will keep crap out. And, you can also get them that can be flush mounted instead of hanging off a cable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Curious enough the Anderson connectors on the computer server UPS batteries have the rubber weather covers. Like if your server room is getting "weather" you've got bigger problems... The Anderson connector weather covers are odd in design, they cover the plug-in end, but the wire-in end is open to intrusion of dirt, water, and crud of all description. Note my installation, permatex ultra-black squirted - a bit sloppy - into the back of the connector sealing the wires to the connector. Very little crud getting in there. Considering that my exposed connector end is facing down, I was going to see how effective gravity is at keeping it clean.
 

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Curious enough the Anderson connectors on the computer server UPS batteries have the rubber weather covers. Like if your server room is getting "weather" you've got bigger problems... The Anderson connector weather covers are odd in design, they cover the plug-in end, but the wire-in end is open to intrusion of dirt, water, and crud of all description. Note my installation, permatex ultra-black squirted - a bit sloppy - into the back of the connector sealing the wires to the connector. Very little crud getting in there. Considering that my exposed connector end is facing down, I was going to see how effective gravity is at keeping it clean.
I do the same and use the boot. I put tape around the housing, fill it with sealer at the wire end, wait for the sealer to start curing then pull the tape off, with the excess sealer. Nice and neat.
 

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I do the same and use the boot. I put tape around the housing, fill it with sealer at the wire end, wait for the sealer to start curing then pull the tape off, with the excess sealer. Nice and neat.
As a side note, the different color housings only mate with the same color. So a grey plug won't mate with your red and so forth.
 

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Soooo....... did he even try to jump it the old fashion way? I've always just put it in 2nd or 3rd gear held the clutch in and got a running start and "jumped" on the seat as I let the clutch out, then immediately pull the clutch back in when it fires so it won't stall. I had a 1200 Sportster a few yeas ago with an electrical system that was so unreliable I sold it because I got sick of resisting the urge to piss on it or light it on fire every time I walked by it. (I also never got used to riding in the "chaise lounge" position.) Despite being a 1200 it is a low enough compression engine that it jumped relatively easily. The KLR is harder to jump but is doable with a friend or on a downhill slope. One thing to be careful of with bikes that are left on a trickle charger/maintainer is to periodically check the fluid in the battery as even on a trickle charger the battery acid will evaporate over time and render the battery useless when you least expect it.

Just my 2cents.
KC
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