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Discussion Starter #1
I tried looking for current suggestions but everything I found seemed to be a little older than 2020.
I’ve got a 1985 klr 600. That needs an oil change and I just want to know which oil is gonna work. I’m not looking to spend a ton, don’t plan to ride often, certainly no hard offroad riding. This is gonna be my go into town for a coffee and post office bike.
I’ve been looking at Delo 400 since it’s cheap and available in the sticks where I live. Will this work for me without burning out the clutch? I also have a Vulcan 1500 and my 2 stroke Yamaha Banshee (I always run tractor oil in the trans on that) so I’m hoping for a one and done kind of oil.
All Suggestions and experiences are appreciated
 

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Well, I am a bit new to the site, and oil threads seem to be right up there with politics in terms of "Please - dont go there" That being said, changing oil is good. new clean oil. use your judgement about weight. not light as this little thumper is a single, not geared tall, and will wail down the freeway at 80mph. lets just say 10w-40 or similar

Now I happen to prefer motorcycle oils which actually state "wet clutch compatible" as that is what the KLR650 is. (some modern sport bikes are dry sump)

I also like synthetic oil as it seems to last long, not break down fast on viscosity, and gives me a better feeling should I need to flog the crap out of my steed. That being said - Amsoil Motorcycle is $11. per quart.

So, my local Fleet farm carries a wet clutch compatible synthetic ATV oil for $5, and it seems to work well. But the additive package may still not be what Amsoil has, so if you have not yet lost consciousness in the boring (and possibly illegal) oil thread, I am cheap so I am currently using two of the synthetic ATV oils and a quart of AMsoil motorcycle oil.

Bike runs good, shifts smoothly, clutch engages nicely. and actually just thinking about it makes me want to fire it up and wail ass down the gravel road. To me the oil change is part of the experience. I regularly view my site glass for level and color. I like the oil to look like a nice craft beer, not a stout. If color gets darker than say a dark brown ale and is getting close to Guinness, it comes out of there. My bike burns no oil. You wouldn't feed a fine athlete potato chips for every meal. I am going to sign off now before I am detected. remember NEWOIL is best. good luck, Line6distortion
 

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just the simple topic of "are automotive oils ok?" could bring out the pitchforks. Many use automotive oils without issue. I have and had no issue. use your judgement and trust your personal preferences will work just fine. Remember NEWOIL is best.
 

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The interested student might google "oil designations" JASO, SF, SF, MA, blah yada da yada. Good interesting engineering stuff. Again, wet clutch compatible works for me. I do not have a working knowledge of such things as I spend too much time performing flawless gourmet cooking, drinking beer and hammering the blues on my Les Paul. But again, there is lots to learn on the subject, and a small chance that some of the learned experts on this site will chime in and set the record straight. . . . . signing out, comrade to Berlin, Line6distortion
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I’m long winded myself so out of respect I force myself to stay awake thru a fellow riders filibusters about riding.
I run Amsoil in my Banshee for my premix. A crazy 80:1 mix that everyone says is suicidal. And I’ve run the Farm and Fleet brand gear oil in the transmission. This has been a winning combo because I don’t mess with the jetting and when I lived in polar Northern Illinois I would Winter ride for hours wide open at -20F and all summer in 90+F and never had even the slightest concern.
I don’t however plan to Use Amsoil in a wet clutch application. I want to be able to change the oil guilt free without thinking of pouring a hundo out at the local recycler.
I’m hoping to find a golden ticket oul that’ll handle the beating my Banshee trans puts out but still can do engines justice in my cruiser and the 600. Maybe wishful thinking.
 

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He's not wrong but many "non-motocycle specific" oils meet the appropriate JASO MA specs. As far as brands go: https://www.blackstone-labs.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Aug-17-ENG.pdf

My personal opinion is that the bike mostly doesn't care what oil you use, only use ENOUGH of it. keep the oil level at the VERY top of the siteglass and consider half way down LOW......check before every ride and at every fill up. Other than that, it should meet the necessary specs and be roughly the right viscosity. .....I change my oil too often (3,000 miles) to bother with fancy synthetics....I mostly use Kawi M4.



Dave
 

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He's not wrong but many "non-motocycle specific" oils meet the appropriate JASO MA specs. As far as brands go: https://www.blackstone-labs.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Aug-17-ENG.pdf

My personal opinion is that the bike mostly doesn't care what oil you use, only use ENOUGH of it. keep the oil level at the VERY top of the siteglass and consider half way down LOW......check before every ride and at every fill up. Other than that, it should meet the necessary specs and be roughly the right viscosity. .....I change my oil too often (3,000 miles) to bother with fancy synthetics....I mostly use Kawi M4.



Dave
Ditto...except I use Rotella T6. Mainly because my Sport Classic, 900SS, Superhawk have no issue with it and I've raced them...So...one brand for all my bikes. Use it in my lawnmower too...
 

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Pretty much what has been said. Any motor vehicle oil will work. "Full of oil" is more important than "what kind of oil".

Currently, in our oil testing thread, Kawasaki 10W-40 seems to be the performance frontrunner. Before switching to Kawasaki oil I used either Delo 400 or Rotella 10W-40 with no issues.

Take a look in the owners manual. Essentially, it says "Put summa dat dere 10dubbayah-ferty erl in dere and have ya some fun. Hyuck-hyuck."
 

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Damned near ANY oil will keep it from blowing up, but probably your best bang for the buck would be factory Kawasaki 10W40. Costs right around $20 per gallon. That's 2 changes worth of pretty good oil. Then there's Rotella for about $14 per gallon at any WalMart. Probably not the best, but meets the Kawasaki specifications.
 

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Isn't this the time in the oil thread where somebody says something that is just plain crude?

I have a bad feeling that this joke has been done before, but I had to slip it in anyway...
 

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Im gonna get spanked again, but hear goes.
9,000 miles 4 oil changes. Right now it has Jon Deer 50+ diesel oil in it, it likes it. I also use rotella T5 or 6, what ever is around from my turck oil change.
I like to see oil in the sight glass wile its on the kick stand, not full but at least half.
I prefer the reusable oil filter. ( be nice ) had 2 other bikes with same one, and never a problem..
 

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"I really get pumped about oil", Tom let slip.
 

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oh no, didn't you guys get the memo to avoid this kind of banter when Tom's awake?

:nono::Damn:


:grin2::grin2::grin2:



Dave
 

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"It's all smooth sailing when I'm a wake", Tom said breezily.
 
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Currently, in our oil testing thread, Kawasaki 10W-40 seems to be the performance frontrunner.
Then, pdwestman's preference is corroborated!

Can you conveniently summarize the magnitude of the performance improvement of the frontrunner, in comparison to the competition? Let us know who's in second (and lesser) place?
 
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