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Discussion Starter #1
So I did the search and found some info & threads about the adjuster ya'll call the doohickey, but one thing I'm unclear on. I read that it was upgraded and improved in 2008, but that there could be some play in where it fits.

It is recommended to still replace it on the newer bikes? and if so, how hard of a job is it for someone who is not really a "mechanic"? Thanks.
 

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Great question!

There has been many answers and posts about this...
There is also loads of video clips and instructional videos available...

However, I personally wouldn't try it if I was not really a mechanic as you stated.

Do some research, decide if it is really needed and good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have a mechanic friend who will probably help me. I really at this point need to determine if it is favorable to replace it on the newer models (2009).
 

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I suppose it is better to be safe than sorry. And most people will tell you to replace them, even on the "newer" 2009 model...
Some of the old ones the lever broke and I believe some of the new ones the little spring is no good. And then some just keeps going and going!

However, I have had 4 KLR's - the old A from 1989, the B (Tengai) from 1991, the C (Europe) from 2000 and even an E from 2011 and I personally have never replaced the doohickey! Maybe I have been just lucky the last 20 years on all 4 of my bikes?

So, it is really up to you. I personally would leave it alone and some would say definitely have it done. Suppose for your peace of mind just replace it.

Hope this helps? Do let us know what you decide...
 

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I just replaced mine (08) since I'm going over the whole bike anyway, and for peace of mind.In retrospect, I probably could have just replaced the (loose) spring, and left the rest alone, but I'd ordered the EM torsion spring kit with tools, so I used it.
I am mechanically adept, but there are enough instructions and videos on the webz that you should be able to take your time and get it done OK with the help of a manual and the right tools. Oh, and some common sense. Probably the hardest part for someone not used to it is removing and replacing the rotor. There are some washers and such to pay attention to, but I used Eagle Mike's instructions, and didn't have any trouble.
 

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I just replaced mine (08) since I'm going over the whole bike anyway, and for peace of mind.In retrospect, I probably could have just replaced the (loose) spring, and left the rest alone, but I'd ordered the EM torsion spring kit with tools, so I used it.
I am mechanically adept, but there are enough instructions and videos on the webz that you should be able to take your time and get it done OK with the help of a manual and the right tools. Oh, and some common sense. Probably the hardest part for someone not used to it is removing and replacing the rotor. There are some washers and such to pay attention to, but I used Eagle Mike's instructions, and didn't have any trouble.
Good answer. For the non-mechanically inclined, it is intimidating. Not hard. If you have a friend to be your second brain, you'll be fine. Go slow, stay organized, don't get frustrated. Find a tech day if you can.

I replaced the doo on my 08, but in hindsight, I might have just done the spring. Although, EM makes nice stuff. Who knows. For me it comes down to how much money you have to play with. When I got my bike, I was getting paid well and bought the doo. Now, I'd just do the spring.
 

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Well, here's my opinion and I think it is correct.

On the gen2 KLRs 2008 and newer the new factory doo is fine. I doesn't break like the old ones did. The spring is also fine. It doesn't break like the old ones did. The spring like all springs does have a certain range of stretch and once it has reached the limit of its range it can no longer adjust the doo. I think that range is between 5 and 10 thousand miles and after that a shorter spring is needed. I don't know where to get a shorter spring because I use the torsion spring which has a really long range. I have one with 100K miles on the torsion spring.

So, I recommend for convenience to to get a doo with a torsion spring so you don't have to go back in to change springs later.

As far as difficulty is concerned, it is not too difficult to unscrew bolts and keep track of them and screw them back in the same holes they came out of. There are some good instructions available telling you about things like making sure you keep track of all the washers and put them back in the right places. The only semi-difficult thing is getting the flywheel/rotor back on the crankshaft with the woodruff key in the grove on the crankshaft. That is not too hard if you peen/dent the side of the woodruff key so it sticks in the groove.

For special tools you will need a rotor holding tool. I made mine, but it cost almost as much as a good one from Eagle Mike. You will also need a torque wrench for 150 foot-pounds and one for inch-pounds. You can usually barrow/rent these from your local auto parts store.

That is it.
 

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Most reasonable comments on this thread, IMHO!

Opinions on the doohickey (and the overall scheme of balancer chain slack adjustment) often take on the character of mandatory religious belief, to some! :) As in, "Salvation DEPENDS upon doohickey replacement absolutely, regardless of generation!" Or, more skeptical, perhaps agnostic, views of aftermarket upgrade.

This thread contains reasonable perceptions and alternatives available for each individual to consider for his own choice; refreshing!

While I know of no Generation 2 doohickey (idler shaft lever) component failures, strong evidence suggests Generation 1 parts sometimes grenaded, and with catastrophic collateral damage.

Eagle Mike (and others) deserve great credit for developing an alternative substantially reducing the probability of this heartbreak.

Just wondering: No easy/reliable way exists to answer the question, but . . . of all the KLR650s manufactured over 25 years of production, and in service worldwide . . . what percentage have aftermarket doohickeys installed?

FULL DISCLOSURE: I have Eagle Mike doohickey and torsion spring installed on my Generation 1.
 

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I have an 08 and was in the same boat. I watched that you tube video doohickey problem revealed and fixed,,starring some guy that sounds like Arnold Schwartzenegger. After watching it a few times I ordered the parts from EM, a friend had the tools. It wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. What is even nicer Eagle Mike has his cell phone number on the instructions, and yes that Saturday morning I had to call once. Nice, nice guy. The doohickey on the 08 is fine, but the spring was slightly slack. I'm glad I did it, but I was really kinda terrorified to teat into the engine, but after it was done, not bad. Just set up a day and go for it. The night before I drained the oil, changed the oil filter and loosened the bolts on the cover so everything could drain that night, and the next morning I set aside the whole day so I could just take my time and not feel..rushed. An hour or two later it was done. Watch the video and see what you think. I bet you can do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks very much folks. Lots of good info here. My bike has 7200 miles, and is an '09. I'm not going to be in a big hurry, but I'll most likely replace the whole piece, along with the spring by the end of summer. I'll watch the vids, and do some more reading up before I jump in. Thx again for the info.
 

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My only regret about doing the EM doo-hickey on my 1987 is, I didn't do the Torsion Spring!
It was a new, semi-unproven Item. My ERROR!! Bang head!!
EM would not sell it, if it was not GOOD! He tested it! I should have trusted him.

I just wish that "Left coast KLRs" would update their install instructions!
READ THE PACKAGING! If IT says, "drill 1/16th inch HOLE at 5:00 position", Do So!
 
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