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Discussion Starter #1
Hi folks, I'm about to put my 650 crankcase halves together an just wondered if theres anything you'd recommend doing before I do?
Its as clean as I can get it, most of the bearings have been replaced (apart from the mains but there fine), the gears seem select ok and I've even polished the centre balancer weight!
Thanks
Ian
 

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Ian,
I've never had the mis-fortune to need to go inside of the main cases of a KLR650.
So I can't think of anything which would Need Modifying. Your transmission is apparently inset to the RH case half.

I always wanted to take my '74 Z1 apart for rebuild and have the transmission gears 'under-cut' for more positive shifting and engagement. Less mis-shifts.

I'm sure you are familiar with my clutch cover oiling modifications by now,
http://www.klrforum.com/1987-2007-wrenching-mods/15458-oil-pressure-how-much-ya-got-42.html
 

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You might consider the PD Westman mods to the oil filter cavity in the clutch cover. Cross drill banjo bolts to 1/8" and install the crankshaft oil gallery restriction. I prefer to install the restrictor into the oil filter cover but if using Paul's method, best to do with clutch cover off.

As for the crankcases, I'm in the process of doing an engine for my bike. I plan to have the oil drain hole welded closed and a boss welded into the side of the crankcase sump on the side of the left rear. I don't like the location of the drain plug or the open hole in the skid plate so will have that welded closed also. Just some thoughts in case might be of interest.

If you haven't installed a thermobob, it's simple to drill the head and water pump to install a bypass hose. I can offer photos as have done a bunch of them.

Another, if you ride in colder weather is a proper crankcase ventilation system. I use the oil filler hole as the location for the inlet hose but plan to drill either the crankcase, side cover or maybe into the head or valve cover. Still working on that project.

Might as well do Tom Schmitz' oil pressure relief valve ball seat lapping while the side cover is off.

If ambitious, please consider bluing the third gear engagement dogs to see if there's any sign that they are not all engaging to the sockets at the same pressure. Third gear dog failure is about the only KLR transmission failure which I see and wondering if one dog comes under pressure before the others?

I strongly recommend replacing or at least closely inspecting the left rear idler shaft bearing. They are the only one for which I see failures and are a complete strip to change. If not caught in time.....
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hi, many thanks for the replies.
I've dug out a brass sparkplug top clip thingy for the crank oil supply, plan to drill the banjo bolts too.
The only ballrace I haven't replaced is the special on the top balancer that has the groove ground into its outer race (think its the same size as a 6204 or 6004 I cant remember...lol) and the mains. So all should be good, I've used new skf energy efficient ones e2 c3 zz rated, There shielded but I've taken one of the shields off, it'll be an interesting experiment, which is what really this engine is gonna be!

Pictures of the thermo bob install would be great if you could, I've got an old head to practice on! I have thought about drilling the thermosat somewere and using the m8 bleed hole as a return pipe to the water pump.

If I can find me engineering blue, I do the third gear and see what it looks like could be interesting.

I still planning to do a big bore, but finding a 96> barrel in the uk seems to be impossible. lol

I taken loads a pics so i'll do a build thread when I get chance if anybody would be interested.

Thanks again.

Ian
 

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Blue Hi-lighted lettering

You might consider the PD Westman mods to the oil filter cavity in the clutch cover. Cross drill banjo bolts to 1/8" and install the crankshaft oil gallery restriction. I prefer to install the restrictor into the oil filter cover but if using Paul's method, best to do with clutch cover off.

As for the crankcases, I'm in the process of doing an engine for my bike. I plan to have the oil drain hole welded closed and a boss welded into the side of the crankcase sump on the side of the left rear. I don't like the location of the drain plug or the open hole in the skid plate so will have that welded closed also. Just some thoughts in case might be of interest.

Might as well do Tom Schmitz' oil pressure relief valve ball seat lapping while the side cover is off.
LOL.
A couple of minutes ago I 'clicked' on (oil pressure relief valve) which was Blue Hi-Lighted, expecting Toms video to pop-up.
This is what I got,

I don't think it will fit Norm! And it probably exceeds Ians budget.

And now it won't display the same thing! :banghead: :banghead:
It was an oil pressure relief valve.
For the Porsche 924/944 series. $489.00 USD! with 'Free Shipping'
 

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Ian,
I may be mistaken, but Normk may have switched over to threading for the allen drive, 1/16" NPT 27 pipe plug, drill orifice to desired to size. (I'm currently at 2.18 mm, #44, well tested.)

It is just safer.

ps, I don't type. Norm responded and left, already.
 

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I'm using 1/4" UNC set screws. They are too hard to conveniently drill without using my carbide bits so I just stand the set screw on top of my vise and use a butane torch to anneal but heating to yellow hot and letting it cool. They drill like butter then. I drill into the crankshaft oil gallery in the oil filter cover.

Knee deep in KLR engines apart in the garage, went to go for a ride for first time in a month and my carb is gummed up in the idle circuit.:frown2:

Now to that.


Ian,
I may be mistaken, but Normk may have switched over to threading for the allen drive, 1/16" NPT 27 pipe plug, drill orifice to desired to size. (I'm currently at 2.18 mm, #44, well tested.)

It is just safer.
 
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