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Discussion Starter #1
Greetings all!

I've been lurking about here for some time, but it feels longer since for the last 2 years my beloved 08 (red) has been in pieces on the basement floor!

To make a long story short as i crested a big f*ck off rock the top of it came out of nowhere, punched through the stock skid, grabbed my oil drain screw and ripped it out. When it was all said and done the bike puked its oil all over the trail, i had to push her 2km out of the bush, and needed the bottom case welded up by a man with more skill than I. Then work happened, i deployed in the summers, and was made a sad everytime i saw her all covered up in the corner.

HOWEVER! She's back together now and, after a whole slew of problems along the way, fires up, runs, stops, turns, etc. To be bluntly honest a great deal of the troubleshooting couldn't have been done without forums like this one and the people that have had problems before me, so thanks to all you!

On to the thing(s) that are driving me nuts though. In spite of starting up fine, warming up fine, idling fine (1400ish warmed up, no choke), when i slow down to come to a stop, the revs die off and the engine cuts out. It's rideable, but i have to keep the clutch in and revs up higher than i remember having to do to keep the engine alive as I come to a stop. I have to give it more revs than i remember to get moving without it sputtering to a stop too.

Maybe related, or a separate thing, but it feels (sounds) like the bike isn't running as smoothly or regularly as it used to. Almost like it's "missing a beat", but regularly, like it's just thumping a tiny bit slower than i feel it should be.

Lastly, there's a ticking sound i can hear from the cylinder that i don't think i could hear before. I asked the guy who took the engine apart to check the valve clearances while he was in there, and he said they were good. I'm a bit hesitant to open up the top end since i just got her together, but if you guys think i should....

I'm sure this is probably at it's heart a fairly simple problem, but i can't figure out what my next step is, or where to look for a solution.

So far (some of this to get it running in the first place) I have drained every scrap of old gas and filled with new stuff, run seafoam through it (neighbours are probably getting tired of the white smoke i leave behind trying to get it through the system!) and cleaned the carb as best i could. None of the vent/vacuum/fuel lines seem to be kinked or clogged.


So there it is, at wits end and open to anything! Not having her on the road is slowly killing me, especially when i feel like i'm so close!
 

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. . . cleaned the carb as best i could.
Disassembled and physically cleaned PILOT JET? As in, inserting wire strand through hole?

Good stickied post on "Overhaul" the carb exists on this website (basically, disassembly and assembly, with illustrations http://www.klrforum.com/how-tos-tech-guides/19026-carb-overhaul.html ); stored as long as the bike was, the dread "ethanol pox" (residue gumming up jets and orifices) seems a possibility; a clogged jet could cause the symptom you mention.

"Better living through chemistry," running SeaFoam through the system, has its limits. Down-and-dirty disassembly and soak in righteous carb cleaner, coupled with some scrubbing, may sometimes be necessary.

Just as an aside, I think 1200 rpm is closer to factory settings than 1400 rpm, IIRC.

Oh. Got a proper bash plate, now? :)

Where ARE my manners? Welcome to the website!
 

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Have you checked your petcock diaphragm for leaks? Remove the vacuum line at the petcock and check for wetness, if moist the diaphragm is leaking and needs to be replaced.
 

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I'm on the same page as Damocles from the symptoms described.

The gumming of a pilot passageway causes what you say is happening.
Once there is sufficient throttle---1/8th to 1/4th the slider is going up
and you are on the needle and main circuit. Also we are running off the
pilot also until some higher rpms and that also explains that it doesn't feel
as powerful as it should be.

The vacuum petcock system is fine as you have good running, and also the
gas tank vent is working. The engine dying at idle is opposite of those being
the problem and they can be eliminated as a source of the problem.

As Operator said a small air leak on the intake side can be the culprit.

Hope ya nail it down quick,
Cheeeeeeeeeeeeeeap
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So work and weather finally permit some wrenching. I'm looking at dissassembling and soaking in pinesol for 24 hours. From what people are saying it seems to be more likely to be the pilot jet/passageway as everything on the intake side looks good and is screwed down right tight to the boot.

Are all the pieces of the carb safe to soak, or should i leave gaskets/diaphragm/floats out of the bath?

Also, So many thanks for the help!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well, FML.

I might have got to the root of the problem...

Looks like the needle jet on the main has taken a walk on me. I have a feeling that the only one to blame for this is me, but F*CK!

Would that be causing the problems i'm having? Partly i ask because it gives me a timeline of when i lost it (today or 4 days ago)

Has anyone had to replace one of these? wondering what cost might be
 

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A modest proposal: Try your dealer, or . . . look it up on the OEM parts fiche/parts-and-price list at Bike Bandit.

The Kawasaki website also has, "View Parts Diagrams;" you can get the part number to then shop for the actual component.

Don't know what nomenclature is used; sometimes, "needle jet" and "collar" are used interchangeably. Mark ye well how it's assembled! :)
 

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For soaking, remove everything that is not metal.

I would expect a missing needle jet to cause the most problems when you start to open the throttle.

I still recommend a thorough cleaning including running compressed air or carb cleaner through the pilot jet and checking that it comes out all the tiny little holes in the throat just under the butterfly. Wear eye protection.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Many thanks to all that chipped in with thier knowledge through this process, she lives again!

Of course there's an exhaust leak because one of the screws has rattled itself loose, but that's nothing a trip to fastenal for an 8x20 won't be able to fix i don't think. Probably should switch the acorn nuts while im in there anyway...they look so corroded i don't trust them to not just rust right to bits.


One parting question, during the transition to my new Protaper bar and grips (love them!) the screws that hold the clutch switch onto the clutch assembly took a walk on me (got knocked onto the gravel driveway by an overhelpful wife and are unfindable). The screw i'm seeing on exploded parts diagrams is a 3x16, but that seems way long for the assembly. If anyone knows the measure on those little b*stards, i'll be in your debt.

Kawi seems, again, unreachable on the telephones out here, and takes 4 days and 3 dollars a screw anyway. I'm hoping to snake it at fastenal with the rest of it.

Cheers and thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
no luck with my moderate size one so far :(.

borrowing a great big jesus contractor one from a friend friday though, so that might turn the tables
 

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I already had the lever and base off so removal was easy. It is 16mm long. I didn't mic it, but 3mm looks right on a ruler.
 
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