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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I love the Shinko 705s as well. I've had them on my bike for probably 5000 miles and just replaced them with another set of 705s. I've done a lot of commuting and highway riding. They seemed to handle way more smoothly than the stock tires on roads. I've taken them down quite a few dirt roads and they handle that really well. But I haven't done any really intense trail riding with these. They're also pretty affordable, which is a bonus. I bought the tubeless tires for my bike and just put the tubes in them. It works well for me but I was a little paranoid when purchasing them the first time.

I thought these youtube video did a nice comparison between the different off road tires and explaining the tread patterns:
A little longer but also had some good info.
Thanks Rusty!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 · (Edited)
Those were great videos. I am thinking for me, a 50/50 is probably the right mix, and I am leaning toward the Kenda k270s. Now on my mtn bike tubeless is the best. What is the feeling on tubeless in a 50/50?

Scratch that, just read a few more reviews. Back to the drawing board.. Maybe the Michelins...
 

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Hi, Jaimesix; I wasn't trying to pick on your comment but I believe (and still do) that even though increasing tire pressure may have "closed the path of least resistance" in your case that it was not the root cause of the instability. I use knobbies at 22-24psi front and 20-22 rear and have taken corners on the highway at 75-80mph with one hand on the bars without a hint of wobble.

My "wobble post";

Way too many people think that addressing the symptoms by dealing with handguards, fenders, fork braces, etc. are the answer rather than dealing with the real issue which is related to suspension setup and loading. I'm not convinced that the KLR is any more susceptible to instability than any other bike with long travel, lightly damped suspension and the Owner's have a propensity for severe and uneven loading.

There are some problems that need to be checked;

- bad/lose head bearings

- condition of wheel bearings and suspension bushings

- wheel and tire condition and appropriate tire pressures.

.....beyond that, It's settings;

- proper sag settings and adequate damping

- proper bike loading

- avoiding inappropriately un-aerodynamic loads



addressing the symptoms rather than the cause can help but IMO shouldn't be done until all the aforementioned items are checked and corrected if necessary. Nonetheless these can help stability;

- fork brace

- smaller fender or lowered fender (I use a polisport as I hate both the supermoto and low mounted fenders)

- consider tank bags instead of putting everything in huge panniers which affects both weight loading and aerodynamics.



My 2001 had some high speed issues that went away as soon as the sag was set properly....and after my Cogent suspension was installed, both my KLR's have been rock steady.....even with full knobbies and low tire pressures (20 - 22PSI). Lastly, as others have mentioned, the rider also plays a part; keep a relaxed light grip on the bars and don't tighten up. Changing your position (move forward/lean forward) can help too.



2 cents,

Dave
I hear you Dave. But I can assure you all variables have been checked in and eliminated.

Perhaps you would need install an 804 up front and ride it at 18 psi, see what happens.

Another factor to consider is I used my Excell set of wheels, both a tad wider than stock (keep my stock wheels for off road use with D606 rubber) , the front being 1.85 versus 1.60 stock up front. Front tire size same as stock, 90-90-21.

Wobble happened at highway speed, no load at all, just cruising, and it appeared under two different scenarios, (1) new unbroken front tire and (2) inadvertently riding on a Shinko 804 at low pressure, both corrected when (1) tire broke in and in the other case (2) upon pressure corrected.

If I had issues with bearings or other, doubt breaking a tire in on one case, or raising psi on the other would magically take care of other issues supposedly latent. 2 separate cases, both involve tires as the elicit factor, both corrected.

In the video that I just saw above, the guy talking about tires mentioned one of those brands he presented creating wobble in some bikes, so tires could create wobble as mentioned by that guy.

In my case, it is a KLR, with a new front Shinko 804 on a slightly wider front wheel,1.85 X 21, running low, think it was 17-18 psi.

The first time it happened, happened on the stock wheel, with a brand new tire (can not remember the brand, will check my photos) that only did that for a few hundred miles until broken in.

No pun intended, just presenting my evidence.

👍👍👍
 

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I am thinking for me, a 50/50 is probably the right mix, and I am leaning toward the Kenda k270s.
I wouldn't consider a Kenda 270 a 50/50 tire. It's likely been mentioned, but a tried and true setup on a KLR is a Dunlop 606 on the rear and a Pirelli MT21 on the front.
 
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I keep hoping that Dunlop will make the D605 tire in a 5.10-17 size. The currently available 4.60-17 will fit great,
due to the narrower than ideal 2.50-17 KLR rim.
 

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I'm just about to take off a pair of 804/805's that have 7500 miles on them. I've never had more than 25 psi in the front and I don't get wobbles, but I very rarely ride without side and top boxes on. I also have cogent suspension front and rear. I primarily ride bdr type of terrain, nothing too extreme since I have a lightweight dualsport and a dirt bike for that.
 

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Different conditions. I was riding if I remember well at 17-18 psi, bellow my threshold of "low pressure" at 22 that I used to have in mind , verified, with the stock rubber.

Once I went over to another brand , that changed. And when going over to Shinko 804/805, another change.

Having a wider wheel in front, 1.85 versus stock 1.60 probably adds to the issue exacerbating what would need be less psi on a 1.60 wide wheel with a 90-90-21 tire. Before that I had the stock wheel which is 1.60 with same size tire, 90-90-21, so in the name of science it would be a good test, all other variables same, to compare a Shinko 804 on a 1.85 in. wheel at 17 psi, at 75mph ➕, versus a Shinko 805 at 17 psi, on a stock size 1.60 in. wheel

My bike has about 8K so it is not a worn out one, and in my case the only variable changing was the tire and pressure, once corrected , it never replicated, no more.

Had it been an issue with forks being lose, triple clamp grip or bearings, etc, the issue would had continued past the remedy, the inflation of the low tire, or in case of the first incident as mentioned, beyond tire breaking in.

In any event, in a couple months I will install my cogent suspensión as well, an opportunity to improve the suspension further.
 

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I bought a set of Bridgestone Battleax AX41s and I really like them. Great for off road but perform very well on the street as well. The only issue I see is durability; looks like I may only get about 3k from the rear. The front is wearing about half that rate.
 

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Hi all,

I have the stock tires on my 2022 KLR650.

I am looking for recommendations on a better set of tires for dirt but also still handle well on the highways/city streets. Maybe something more aggressive than stock but not completely dirt specific.

So far I have heard of:
Dunlop 606
Tusk?
Hi Chris, obviously depends on what you want to spend. For about $60-70, the Shinko 705 an 80/20 lasted me 7,500 miles on the rear and still plenty of tread left on the front after the same mileage and they were used on & off road
 

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I like the Shinko 244 front and back. I have tried a lot of tires on the KLR over the past 15+ years and these work for me. A 50/50 like the K270 but the front is more stable in my mind. The price is good. It would be rare for me to get the milages mentioned here on any rear tire out there so getting 2,000 is good for me. I run hard and ride a lot of dirt and highway that gets me there so something like a 705 doesn't fit my needs on a dirt oriented bike. My $.02. Good luck
 

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Hi all,

I have the stock tires on my 2022 KLR650.

I am looking for recommendations on a better set of tires for dirt but also still handle well on the highways/city streets. Maybe something more aggressive than stock but not completely dirt specific.

So far I have heard of:
Dunlop 606
Tusk?
Do not go past Mitas E07 130/80x17 Rear, 120/70×21 Front. Long lasting, handle tar/pavement and dirt, have a good load rating. I've used them on both my KLR's, my XC Triumph 800 and my MotoGuzzi 750. Wind, Rain, Snow or the baking Australian sun does not fade them ... good luck with whatever you decide!
 

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Do not go past Mitas E07 130/80x17 Rear, 120/70×21 Front.
I think you better Re-Check your front tire SIZE!

Seems that either Mitas doesn't make a 120/70x21 Front tire or Revzilla doesn't sell that size in the USA!
 

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It’s a klr big surprise
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Hi all,

I have the stock tires on my 2022 KLR650.

I am looking for recommendations on a better set of tires for dirt but also still handle well on the highways/city streets. Maybe something more aggressive than stock but not completely dirt specific.

So far I have heard of:
Dunlop 606
Tusk?
If you’re close to San Fe NM come over and I’ll swap your stock tires for slightly used 606. There’s lots of tire options but best tires already the ones that you have on the bike.
 

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2013 KLR 650/692, 2017 HD Electraglide Ultra
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I got a second set of wheels. That way I can swap between more street-oriented, and more dirt-oriented tires easily. Set up a Craigslist search. You’re likely to find a pair of wheels for $200 or less sometime over the winter. They might even have good tires on them.
 
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