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my 2007 only has 3400 miles on it but I'm going to upgrade my Doo-hickey
this fall what is the best one to replace it with?

I don't want to do this again soon ....
 

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mtp1961-

The only one I would use would be the Eagle Manufacturing lever and spring(s). It's well made to close tolerances and is a proven part.

Tom
 

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mtp1961-

The only one I would use would be the Eagle Manufacturing lever and spring(s). It's well made to close tolerances and is a proven part.

Tom
I don't think anyone here will dispute this recomendation. I might add that you may want to look into using the torsion spring that Eagle Mike offers as well. It's a bit more difficult to install but not hard.
 

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my 2007 only has 3400 miles on it but I'm going to upgrade my Doo-hickey
this fall what is the best one to replace it with?

I don't want to do this again soon ....

Eagle Mike yes and get the torsion spring that way you won't ever have to go in again.
 

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Yep, Eagle Mike I replaced mine on my 04 with about the same miles on my bike that you have on yours. My Doo was not broken, however it had been over tightened at the factory and had a burr on it so it would not move. I also had a broken spring. No problems since swapping it out. I now have over 32,000 on the bike.
 

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Eagle the very best bar none.:character00271:
 

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Done the Doo

Just did the Eagle Mike doo-hickey on my 09 as I had an unexpected day off work. I was due an oil and filter change and it made sense to get the Doo done at the same time.

It took longer than it should have done as I had to make three trips in to town, one for a torque wrench, then for a new filter that I forgot the first time and then for extra oil. I should have been better organized!

The rotor bolt was harder to get loose than I expected but no big deal. I had three other problems though.

I fitted the Eagle Mike torsion spring and there was no way I could tension that enough to hook it over the doo-hickey. Eventually, I removed everything and checked the position of the hole I'd drilled in the inner casing. It's supposed to be at 7:00 o'clock but I was maybe more like 7:30 or 8:00 and that is fairly critical. I had to re-drill the hole and that solved the issue. Fortunately there's plenty of metal in that area.

Second problem was re-locating the rotor with the woodruff key in place. If I ever do another Doo, I'll positioned the key slot at 12 o'clock while it's still possible to turn the shaft. In hindsight, that would make it easier to position the rotor assembly and align it with the key.

The stock doo-hickey actually seems adequate although the Eagle Mike version is better quality. The stock spring was okay too. No doubt the torsion spring is an improvement and if you're taking everything apart to fit the torsion spring then it makes sense to replace the doo-hickey at the same time.

Final problem was deciding where to stick the Eagle Mike decal that came with the kit. (I guess that's the doo-sticky.)

Anyway it went on the rear carrier.

So now I've completed the Doo-hickey and the Thermo-bob, so I'm good to go!
 

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Was there slack in the spring? And good on ya, dude.
 

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How about an 08+ ?
Whats the scoop on the doo-hick?
The 08 has a beefed up Doo, but my spring had no tension when I changed it at 3K? Close to that. You want to check it out, and if you got the scrilla put an EM doo in there.
 

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How about an 08+ ?
Whats the scoop on the doo-hick?
Opinions will vary but I'd say it's worth it, if only for peace of mind.

The 08 and later idler shaft lever (doohickey) is quite good quality but not as good as the Eagle Mike version and upgrading to the torsion spring is worth doing anyways.
 

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How about an 08+ ?
Whats the scoop on the doo-hick?
I am not aware of any confirmed balancer lever failures on the Gen II [08 & up] KLR 650's. The springs seem prone to lose tension, and conventional wisdom implies they should be swapped out with after market springs. The torsion type spring currently is the most popular. These springs are available from a number of sources. Here is an interesting article about the later model bike's and the upgraded balancer system.


http://www.topgunmotorcycles.com/2008klr/08_klr_page3.html

I am considering the installation of one of their inspection ports, to better monitor what is going on down there in the balancer region.

Balancer Spring Inspection Port Kit
Applications: Kawasaki KLR650 '87 - 2010

http://www.topgunmotorcycles.com/Product_Pages/klrprod.html

This is an interesting outfit. They offer some tech articles I find informative. They also offer shock service and spring replacement for those looking to improve their suspension. Very helpful on the phone, knowledgeable, willing to help you make the right choices. I think their main focus is setting up rally type bikes, and long distance multi-surface long distance traveler's bikes.

http://www.topgunmotorcycles.com/articles.html
 

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Seems to be good advice from those guys and there's some good background info as well.

They recommend waiting until the warranty expires on a 08 or later bike which might not be a bad idea. The inspection port idea is interesting but probably wouldn't work if you switch to the torsion spring?

I'm happy I did the full doo-hickey even though I'm still inside the warranty period and low kms.
 

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New guy on the board...couple of questions.

First, just got my 06 KLR on Saturday...4500 miles. I'll post pics when I can.

I ordered the Eagle Mike kit this morning...what a great guy to talk with.
I have oil, filter, kit on the way, and a good shop.

What else to I need? Several sites list to "coat" or "oil" all components upon reassembly. What do you guys use? I appreciate the info.
 

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Several sites list to "coat" or "oil" all components upon reassembly. What do you guys use? I appreciate the info.
You don't need no stinkin' oil for these replacement parts IMHO, outdoorgb; however, if you insist, or if your conscience bothers you . . . use regular motor oil.
 

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You don't need no stinkin' oil for these replacement parts IMHO, outdoorgb; however, if you insist, or if your conscience bothers you . . . use regular motor oil.
I appreciate the quick reply... I'll reassemble the components in the same condition they came out. is blue loctite recommended for the case bolts? is blue loctite recommended for the case bolts when I reassemble?
 
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