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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Here's the question of the day..........
This is on my '09 650
Just broke 1300 miles yesterday on trhe first "real" ride of 2011.
I bought it new last Sept, (this will be my 3rd KLR, they are such a good "all @ bike), brought it home, and before it had 100 miles I did the;
1. 22 cent mod (2-#4 washers, 3-1" holes, 1 step bigger main, air screw out 2 1/2 turns slide drilled with the 7/32?? drill), tossed the snorkel, filled the holes with filter foam
2. Doo
3. Thermo Bob kit
4. Cee-Bailey touring windshield
5. Chopped 1" off the kick stand
6. Battery Tender plug
At 1000 miles I threw on a Lexx muffler, (sounds pretty good, barky, but not loud)
Yesterday I went for ride, (I don't take this off road, my KTM and Gas-Gas trial bikes are for that), this is my "@ town bike, shrt trip bike, my commute bike.
Now, it had the "storage gas" in it with the "Stay-bil" in it, some dry gas, carb cleaner, so it not supposed to run great!
It did run, well like a KLR, didn't skip a beat.
I'd like to get a bit better throttle response out of it.
I asked my dealer when I got it if he'd get me a KLX needle and looked at me like I was from Mars!
Does anyone have THAT part number to help me out???
Would a JD kit, (I've used them with great success on my KTM's) help the response???
I'm thinking of dropping in a larger pilot to help that bottom power out, (everyonce in a while if I "blip" the throttle at a light, it'll stall- it's gotta be lean)
So.......................................
KLX needle and .22 or J.D. to help the response??
Joe
The bike is running great! I think I better tinker with it!:49:
 

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KLX N1-TC adjustable needle 16009-11912
KLX needle clip 92037-1401
KLX needle spacer 92143-1667

ronayers.com typically has the lowest prices. I get a 20% discount on Kaw parts from a local dealer, so you may want to check around your neighborhood for similar local discounts. Most web-based sellers sock you with a potent shipping fee.



These items are sourced from a 2005 KLX300, and will function in the 2009 KLR 650 CV40 carburetor.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Groovie!
Now why the hell couldn't my local dealer help me out?????
It's not like he doesn't know me, I've been buying bikes outta there since the early 70's!
I had to explain to him the .22 mods,and all the other good stuff for the KLR!
I take it the spacer goes between the clip and the slide?
 

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Nope. Goes on top.

T
 

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Cynical contrarian comment . . .

ALL CV carburetord [posses the characteristic of "delayed throttle response," to some extent. Low relative ressure ("vacuum") must exist above the diap;hragm to raise the slide, admitting air-and-fuel mixture into the engine . . . the process takes some time.

Unless you add an accelerator pump and mechanical slide mechanism, you will live with an inherent lag in throttle response, be the delay ever so brief!

Of your modifications mentioned, slide drilling is the only one affecting "throttle response," in the literal meaning of the phrase, IMHO.

Messing with the needle contour and jets may provide you more optimum air/fuel ratios at different throttle openings, but . . . ain't gonna affect throttle response (literal scoped meaning), IMHO!

Opinion only; corrections and clarifications welcomed!
 

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Cynical contrarian comment . . .

ALL CV carburetord [posses the characteristic of "delayed throttle response," to some extent. Low relative ressure ("vacuum") must exist above the diap;hragm to raise the slide, admitting air-and-fuel mixture into the engine . . . the process takes some time.

Unless you add an accelerator pump and mechanical slide mechanism, you will live with an inherent lag in throttle response, be the delay ever so brief!

Of your modifications mentioned, slide drilling is the only one affecting "throttle response," in the literal meaning of the phrase, IMHO.

Messing with the needle contour and jets may provide you more optimum air/fuel ratios at different throttle openings, but . . . ain't gonna affect throttle response (literal scoped meaning), IMHO!

Opinion only; corrections and clarifications welcomed!

Yea for sure not to mention the mild cam profiles, conservative head flow, heavy flywheel, etc.

A KLR will never be snappy like the OP's KTM or Gas Gas. Some people throw alot of money at a KLR trying to turn it into something they should have bought in the first place!
 

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KLX N1-TC adjustable needle 16009-11912
KLX needle clip 92037-1401
KLX needle spacer 92143-1667

ronayers.com typically has the lowest prices. I get a 20% discount on Kaw parts from a local dealer, so you may want to check around your neighborhood for similar local discounts. Most web-based sellers sock you with a potent shipping fee.



These items are sourced from a 2005 KLX300, and will function in the 2009 KLR 650 CV40 carburetor.

Question, has anyone installed the KLX setup after running the washers (.22 mod) on the stock needle? Notice any difference? The stock needle does have a weird step/taper at the tip, makes me wonder.
 

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WASHERS (or spacers) with a NOTCHED NEEDLE, are used for the purpose of increasing granularity of adjustment betwen notches, I think . . .

Make sense?

Didn't think so!
 

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Question, has anyone installed the KLX setup after running the washers (.22 mod) on the stock needle? Notice any difference? The stock needle does have a weird step/taper at the tip, makes me wonder.
Yep, I have! It feels much smother at all RPMs, IMO. If you are happy with the .22 mod, you will be that much happier with the KLX needle. I would go with the 142 jet as the needle is much more aggressive. This was suggested by KLR Cary if your running the stock piston or the 685 with the stock head.
 

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A KLR will never be snappy like the OP's KTM or Gas Gas. Some people throw alot of money at a KLR trying to turn it into something they should have bought in the first place!
Spot on!! Some bikes are fast, and some can be made fast cheaply.. The KLR's not one of them.. My KDX200 would RIP after I put a different pipe and silencer on it, and opened up the air box and rejetted.. It was like a new bike, but it still had KDX suspension. :(

Had I just bought a KTM 200EXC in the first place, I woudn't have needed to modify anything, and it would still make 5 more hp than the KDX..

We learn, or we don't..:46:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'm off to order the KLX needle and some brass today. So I'll do a side by side test.
I understand the KLR will never be a spin the tire, pop wheely response bike, but it just feels like this has a bit more "lag"??? than my '07 did.
Like I said, I'm pretty sure I need to rejet with the open air box AND the free flowing exhaust.
As for the KDX as to a KTM 200
Well, I raced both for years here in Pa.
I LOVED the KDX, it was like a jeep, could be made into a therobreed steed with enough $$
I raced a MXC 200 and a EXC 200 in the woods.
They were like a 125 with a attitude, but, if I was doing an enduro, I prefer a KDX for the pure grunt.
Both brands got me many trophies!
I figure the cost of a modified KDX is what you'd pay for a KTM EXC @ the same age, both will take the same abuse, I believe the KDX is cheaper to maintain.
I also raced a Suzuki RMX 250, with a great set up suspension. That was just plain fun!
Joe
If I didn't ride motorcycles..... well I'd be a bored drunk at a golf course!:character00271:
 

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Might not go as far as quoting Strother Martin's classic line from "Cool Hand Luke' ("What we have here is FAILURE to communicate!"), but . . . I think communication is hampered by the absence of a definition of terms.

What terms?

"Throttle response."

Not, in my view, synonymous with power, acceleration, etc.

YMMV!
 

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I think it's all about the "seat of the pants" meter. Last year I was hanging out at the dealership and we got to talking about all the stuff I have done and how Steve, the owner, didn't think it would make any felt difference at all. We took a spin around a long block; him on a newish stock KLR and me on mine. Then we switched bikes and did it again. We could both feel the difference.

Once I stopped cranking on the gas and I got back to my normal commute habits, the MPG was not much different.
 

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I assumed the KLX needle had to be a KLX650 needle, but I guess not. I just happen to have a KLX300 needle here since I put a DJ kit in it.
So if I do no other mods to my bike, just put the X300 needle in it, where would I place the clip? Level with the original 650 clip or equivalent to 2 washers lower?
Thanks
 

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Savage -

Where ever it came from, it should be the NT1B needle.

You should go down one jet size and put the cllp on the second groove from the top.

Seems to be a pretty solid starting place; many find they can do no better than that setting.

T
 

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If desired, cannot the spacer be placed below the circlip, adding partial, but not entirely a full groove's worth, of needle lift?

I thought the spacer's purpose was adding granularity to the needle height adjustment, beyond the grooves alone . . .

If my understanding's all wet, please disabuse me of my error!
 
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