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Discussion Starter #1
I have a new 2018 with 4200 miles on it. It has been good so far. Yesterday going down the highway at 5000 rpm the bike just died. Not out of fuel and no electrical at all. No horn, blinkers, nothing. Looked at it this morning. changed the 20 amp fuse below the main fuse, and then I had horn and blinkers and head and tail light. But bike wouldn't start, and no neutral light on the dash with the bike in neutral. Starter wouldn't turn. Pulled in clutch, nothing, lifted kickstand and with clutch pulled in the bike starts and runs, soon as I put the kickstand down, bike dies.
Did the neutral switch take out the fuse. I tried testing it, but my volt meter isn't playing nice on ohms today.
The bike is still under warranty, but I hate to load it and bring it to the dealer.
 

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The green neutral switch wire is in front of and the switch is below the engine sprocket. Have you disturbed the wires in that area, doing a sprocket change?

The fuse in the rubber holster is the Spare! The main fuse is under the RED clip, gotta squeeze both triggers to release the Red Clip, correct?

Check the bundle of wires between the RH edge of the fuel tank & the coolant reservoir bracket. They really should have routed that bundle In-Front of the bracket & Above the horn!

Yes the Gen 2's always die with a Down kickstand. Unless you simply cut the (replaceable stand switch) wires and crimp them together.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The neutral switch wire hasn't been cut or disturbed. Ill try to ohms it again today. I did do more research and the fuse on the bottom is a spare. ( it is very strange that when I pulled the spare out and put a new one in its place, that I got power) The main fuse didn't blow. I don't know it was the spare, then, when checking it out yesterday, I got power to every thing but no neutral light. And needed clutch in and kick stand up to start it. For the clutch bypass I ground down a mini fuse and stuffed it in and taped up both ends. For the kickstand bypass, I stuffed tinfoil in it and tapped up both ends. I went for a 60 mile ride yesterday and no problems. But need to see if neutral light switch is bad or the bulb burnt out. Ill check the bundle of wires that you suggested. Before this incident, I was always able to start the bike with kickstand down and no clutch in with neutral light on.
Thank you for your input. It still worries me that it just died and lost total power and I still cant find a reason why it did that. Neutral switch and or bulb and kickstand switch going at the same time seem odd, and bike just dying going 80 seems odd.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
OK,, so today tested the neutral switch and it reads the same in neutral or in gear, so its probably broken. Today bike wont start but did 60 miles fine yesterday. Horn, blinkers all stuff works but starter wont fire. clutch and kickstand jumped out.
Will a bad neutral switch not let the starter engage??? Starter wont kick in in gear or in neutral.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Just found and answered my own question. After calming down and having a beverage or 2, I retraced yesterdays steps. I found it on my first check. The mini fuse I ground down to jump the clutch out pulled out. So I found something that fits tight and is the same size as the male end of the plug. Bike fires right up.
Ill call the Kawie dealer Tuesday and see if they will warranty a new neutral switch without me bringing the bike in.
Im really good at finding and fixing AC high and secondary voltage problems. BUT this KLR is letting me know who is in charge.
I cant wait to see what I mess up when I do the do.
thanks for help and sorry to waist any ones time.
 

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The mini fuse I ground down to jump the clutch out pulled out. So I found something that fits tight and is the same size as the male end of the plug. Bike fires right up.
Ill call the Kawie dealer Tuesday and see if they will warranty a new neutral switch without me bringing the bike in.
Congratulations on getting your bike running, but . . . l lost lock-on, regarding the explanation of the problem! Just, ME, I reckon! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I still have a problem, I just barley made it home, just now.
First thing was bike died for no reason on highway. Next day I did something (I don't know what), and found bad neutral switch, and kickstand safety went, jumped that stuff out and fine, except no neutral light on the dash. (SO) went for 60 mile ride yesterday, no problems, today it wouldn't start, found my jumper I did,, pulled out, on clutch jumper, made new one, bike started and ran great.
When I put the crash bars on I created a vacume leak for the petcock thing that needs vacume to let fuel flow. that still may be a problem. But wouldn't cause total electrical to shut down, and not have a burnt fuse.
(NOW IM REALLY AT A LOSS) Went for ride, fine for 50 miles, then bike for no reason started cutting out on highway. It seemed to fix itself for a bit when I hit the starter wile rolling in gear. I tried reserve and every thing I could think of. It seemed to run good for 20 miles keeping speed and rpms down, then acted up again. ( I am no mechanic and cant figure out why hitting the starter made it come to life wile in gear coasting with key on )
It is under warranty, but it is probably something I did putting the crash bars on and or the rear bags. I probably pinched a wire or something. bike ran perfect before I touched it, but It only had 600 miles on it till I added stuff. Now has 4,400 ish.
When I relax, ill take seat and gas tank off to see if I pinched wire/s, and pull the petcock out to check the screen, and get rid of the vacume type petcock thingy. ( then ill bring it to the dealer)
Any good klr mechanics near the top west part of MN???
Im at a total loss, and any help would be great.
 

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I would agree about looking for a pinched wire before you take it in to the dealer. If you pinched a wire, they won't be able to warranty the repair. I haven't had my 2018 KLR that long but I have found a few things. It will start and run in neutral with the kick stand down. But will turn off if you put it in gear.
 

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When it comes to potential warranty coverage, the more the owner messes with anything the more the shop will have to double check to see if/how the owner created the problem. If they find the problem to be owner induced all the labor time and repair parts will be Owner Expense!

Have you added any accessories? Have you had the fuel tank off? Have you had the upper fairing off? Have you spliced into any wires, any where, for any reason?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok, thanks to all. ( I need 2 man-up again for the second or third time now )
THE PROBLEMS, WITH 2 PICKS AT THE BOTTOM.
1, when the bike died on the highway. I did not mention that a black wire got pinched and separated, a neutral wire. Its in a pick coming off the batt, with a blue splice in it now. ( That kills all the power if cut or one unplugs the conector. That's why the bike got power after I got it home and spliced it.
2, don't know why the neutral switch and side stand switch went bad at the same time the wire broke.
3, jumped out kickstand and clutch safeties and next day clutch one as stated needed a better jumper.
4, Yesterday, barley made it home on a 100 mile ride. Took it all apart today. Found a kinked vac hose ( in pick below). I did a tank pet cock delete, by taking it apart and removing O ring and grinding 1/2 inch off the part that O ring goes on and put it back on. ( no leaks). ( Wont have a vac/fuel problem again). Before putting seat back on I started bike, ran fine. shut bike off, unplugged the wire I broke, and turned key on and no electrical. Plugged it back in all is well, except need a new neutral switch.
If I was to leave the vac pet cock stuff on, I would get steel braided lines and hose clamps, and not have to worry about a kinked hose.
( going for a ride now ) lets see what I did this time taking it apart and putting it back together. ha ha ...
 

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I still have a problem,

(NOW IM REALLY AT A LOSS) Went for ride, fine for 50 miles, then bike for no reason started cutting out on highway. It seemed to fix itself for a bit when I hit the starter wile rolling in gear.

When I relax, ill take seat and gas tank off to see if I pinched wire/s, and pull the petcock out to check the screen, and get rid of the vacume type petcock thingy. ( then ill bring it to the dealer)
Any good klr mechanics near the top west part of MN???

Im at a total loss, and any help would be great.
Tom Schmitz will have a better understanding of electrical wizardry than I. Maybe we can get his attention?

The starter button would not be able to energize the starter motor while contacting starter button with bike in gear and clutch fully Engaged, but the button might energize the Yellow/Red wire to the TCBI module.
This might be good reason to involve the K Dealership with their access to the KMC USA warranty Hot-line.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I went for a ride this morning made it 10 miles. 78 degrease. Ran great and drove it like I stole it. Bike cutted out again with ALL stuff bypassed petcock n clutch n kickstand. But still have to replace neutral switch.
Barely made it home again. Having to hit the starter button to keep it alive. When back. Went in first gear for 5 mn ride round yard and no problem. Let it idle for 10 mns and stays coolish and fan didnt need to kick on.
I love the klr but its driving me nuts. 2018 with 4500 miles on it now.
 

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lineman1234 that blue crimp connector needs to be upgraded.
It will be a problem at some point down the road.
Either solder and heat shrink or replace it with a heat shrink butt connector.

Terry
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Is it probably that I did something to the electrical system, when the bike died from the broken wire. As, again, the neutral light was working and kickstand switch was working before, and bike never wanted to die wile driving down the road.
Being able ( yesterday) to drive it like I stole it down the highway for 10 miles and no problems. Then problems, seems like I may have damaged something in the charging system, as maybe after the 10 miles the batt was topped off and something wasn't happy, and or gets warm and isn't happy. It was fine in first gear when back, around the farm yard and idled fine and started fine.
The neutral switch and kickstand safety went at the same time after the bike died. ( the first time) So could something have surged or the opposite, get damaged from broken neutral.
 

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I tried to answer this a couple of days ago but I see it did not go through. I have been in a rather rural area with not much in the way of cell bandwidth, Ambleside in the Lake District. I’m now out to the coast at Conwy.

It seems you have several symptoms that come and go and they all came on suddenly. That seems like an intermittent short to me, perhaps affecting the diode matrix.

The y/r wire controls the anti-kickback at low engine rpm. I would think that if that function is going off the reservation that the TCBI is not long for this world. Since those things seldom die I think there must be something else going on.

Neutral switches never die; you don’t need to replace it. It’s connector has likely come loose.

I support @pdwestman’s suggestion that the dealer be contacted and a warranty claim started. Nothing that has happened should have happened and there’s no reason to be chasing after weird shit in a year-old bike.
 
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Discussion Starter #17
It has to be something I caused. As I didn't think nothing of the black wire with yellow stripe, broken under seat, and used it to test the batt, to make sure batt wasn't dead. ( when I was dead on side of road ) So I sent voltage through the blk with yellow stripe wire, so after that neutral swithch and kickstand safety went bad. I tested the neutral light yesterday by grounding out the wire and light came on, so I must have damaged the switch. ( I have a new one on the way) It runs fine for short trips. Did I damage a diod pack and or something/ when I touched that wire to the positive side of battery, 2 times??
It wont be under warranty, because of what I have done.
What makes it able to come to life when it starts to act up and I hit the starter and it works enough to get me home hitting starter when bike dies out. It looses power, as the tack drops to 0 right away.
Thanks for any sugestions.
I was given a name of a bike mechanic that I will contact soon, but want to eliminate want I can first.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
In going over possible causes and what I may have done.
Step one, bike ran as new, no problems, then lost all power going down road.
Step two, wile waiting to be picked up, I took things apart and found I put seat on black wire with yellow stripe, and pinched/broke it.
Step three, I didn't think anything of using the black wire with yellow strip to test the battery by touching it to the positive side, because the other side of it was connected to the neutral. I used the side that goes to the connector.
Step four, when getting it home, I reconnected black wire with yellow stripe, and got power to everything, but starter wouldn't engage. No neutral light on dash, I pulled in clutch, nothing, put up kickstand, bike started and ran, but still no neutral light, put kickstand down, bike died.
I jumped out kickstand and clutch safeties, and went for a ride the first time, 60 miles and stopped at a place, then 10 miles down road bike would loose power, I tried everything, for some reason I hit starter and it came to life and had to keep doing that to get it home. Played with what I could, and took it for a ride and it lasted 10 miles and same dying out and had to keep hitting starter to get home. When home it idles and can drive around farm yard in first and second with no problems.
 

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Neutral switches never die; you don’t need to replace it. It’s connector has likely come loose.

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Just a minor point here. Neutral switches almost never die, but I had one with intermittent loss of continuity to ground from the connector pin while in neutral. A new neutral switch solved the problem. I really dislike intermittent problems and doubt the neutral switch is involved here.

Just short the green neutral switch to ground for a while to see if the problem remains or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks. It has to be that I burnt neutral switch out, as it worked before I caused a problem. grounding the wire connected to the switch lights up the dash light, so switch is bad. I have a new one coming. I went for a 80 mile ride yesterday and no problems.. I have the kickstand and clutch safeties bypassed very well, as I didn't the first time I bypassed them, and the petcock vac system is deleted.
Ill be on the bike all day today, so I hopefully fixed all I did. This klr is a learning experience.
 
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