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Discussion Starter #1
i have been having issues with my shifting, its a 2013 klr650, 6k miles.

my neutral is extremely EASY to find, it's almost like a regular gear gift, whether up or down.


now this may sound like a good thing but sometimes when i'm accelerating specially on dirt, i move my foot to take it to 2nd gear, the bike goes into neutral and i hear the click. it feels like it engaged but the bike is in neutral and neutral light is on

yesterday i had to repeatedly keep on kicking it up to engage.

is this something that can be fixed by changing the oil??.. or am i looking at a big problem?
this does not happen OFTEN.... maybe once or twice in a ride... save 1 out of 50 shifts...

let me know your thoughts
 

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Sounds normal to me. What oil are you running??
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Sounds normal to me. What oil are you running??
i have no clue, i just bought the bike, like a month ago.

its a 2013, he was the the first owner and he said he always maintained it himself.

maybe i should just change the oil and put some castrol 10W40 motorcycle oil...

what do you like to use for oil?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
i need to also check the oil level... ill check it out today
 

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Try Rotella 15-40, This forum talked me into it and I must say, it seem to shift a little better... clutch works real good...

OEM oil is not a option for me, no local dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
you buy this online only?
i asked the old owner he said he uses CASTROL SYNTHETIC.

but he said the false neutral thing is like this since he bought it, so its not an issue, its because it's a CLAW CLUTCH what ever that means :D.
 

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Rotella is available EVERYWHERE, Walmart, auto zone, Napa, maybe even k-mart.
It is diesel oil, but it is JASO cert so it is safe for Japanese bikes/clutches.

I am fairly new to KLR's as-well, was going to run synthetic till I did some research..
I don't think there is a "bad" motorcycle oil, the availability, low cost and reviews of Rotella sold me.
 

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Shifting

i have been having issues with my shifting, its a 2013 klr650, 6k miles.

my neutral is extremely EASY to find, it's almost like a regular gear gift, whether up or down.


now this may sound like a good thing but sometimes when i'm accelerating specially on dirt, i move my foot to take it to 2nd gear, the bike goes into neutral and i hear the click. it feels like it engaged but the bike is in neutral and neutral light is on

yesterday i had to repeatedly keep on kicking it up to engage.

is this something that can be fixed by changing the oil??.. or am i looking at a big problem?
this does not happen OFTEN.... maybe once or twice in a ride... save 1 out of 50 shifts...

let me know your thoughts
Try "pre-loading" the shift lever, and when you pop it into 2d, give it full movement with your foot. I get lazy some times. I forget to give that little extra up-push.
 
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I have two KLRs. One has a shift lever that is slightly bent inward so that it can rub on the case if my shifting motion presses it inward. It will sometimes stop in neutral on the way to second. It seems that 1st to 2nd requires a longer throw than the others.

My other KLR without the bent lever shifts fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I have two KLRs. One has a shift lever that is slightly bent inward so that it can rub on the case if my shifting motion presses it inward. It will sometimes stop in neutral on the way to second. It seems that 1st to 2nd requires a longer throw than the others.

My other KLR without the bent lever shifts fine.
i went to the dealer today and asked the service manager about it, he said it's normal. on klrs the first to second requires a long throw.
specially if you are using offroad boots, which may limit ur leg motion, u will have to give a higher throw.

he said they call this LAZY LEG .. HEHE..

its true though, it mainly happens to me offroad, trying to shift standing or trying to shift in uncomfortable positions on the bike.

now my next big deal is installing the 2" risers i got... i need to figure out if i need new cables or no. i posted anotehr thread for this but i did not get many responses, it seems that not too many people have done it!
 

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I hit neutral consistently when wearing sneakers. Almost never happens with my steel toe boots. This has also been consistent with most past rides.
 

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I had this problem on my first few rides.
It sometimes would repeatedly click back in to neutral when I let out the clutch.
First thing I found was to shift between 3-4K rpm.
2 - Adjusted my shift lever up a bit.
3 -Made sure the oil level was full.
4- Bought a Moose +1" shifter for my big feet.

Havent blown a shift since.
The previous owner used Rottella oil which is still in the case though I
found Kawi oil online for like $17.00 a gallon which I plan to change soon.
 

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Rotella T5 15W-40 'CJ-4' and 'CK-4'

I put Rotella T5 15W-40 'CJ-4' in my bike last year. Bought it on Amazon. Now seeing that there it is out of stock and there is new product T5 15W-40 'CK-4'

Any thoughts?
 

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I put Rotella T5 15W-40 'CJ-4' in my bike last year. Bought it on Amazon. Now seeing that there it is out of stock and there is new product T5 15W-40 'CK-4'

Any thoughts?
Genuine Kawasaki engine oil is one of the best.

But I'll still answer the question.
C*-4 is the diesel engine grading. S* is the gasoline engine grading.
MA/MA2 is suitable for wet clutches (klr), MB is not suitable for wet clutches.

So A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, K, etc = New & Improved.
 

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1) Check the oil immediately, do not pass go and do not collect $200

2) Change the oil now and every 2500 - 3000 miles. I use Kawi oil and I think synthetic is a waste but YMMV

3) 98.732% of all shift complaints originate with the shifter; the position, loose on the shaft, broken weld or hitting the skidplate or engine case.


Cheers,
Dave
 

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....and since you're changing the oil, read;

1) Oil drain plug overtightening: it is relatively common for people to overtighten the oil drain plug.....usually to stop a leak after the gasket/washer has inadvertently fallen into the used oil or left stuck to the bottom of the engine! best case is stripped threads, worst is a cracked case. Make sure the washer is in place and use a torque wrench Note; my manual says 17 ft lbs, Eaglemike recommends 15 ft lbs with his low profile drain plug which is what I use. Some Gen2 manuals specify 21 ft lbs but there has been no change in the plug or case which would affect the drain plug torque and people have stripped their drain plugs at this setting: beware!

- 2) Chain tension: many owners and some shops overtighten the KLR's drive chain; due to the long travel suspension and geometry the KLR needs more slack than other bikes people may be used to. If the chain is too tight you risk damaging the countershaft seal and bearing as well as possibly the wheel bearings along with premature wear of the drive chain and sprockets. Quick check; with the bike on the sidestand, you should be able to touch the chain to the bottom rearmost portion of the chain slipper but not the metal swingarm itself.

- 3) Speedo drive: it is common for people to post problems with their speedo after they've had the front wheel off. If you don't make sure the drive slots in the hub are aligned with the speedo drive tangs you risk bending the drive tangs and worse, breaking the hub. Time consuming to repair, expensive to replace, easy to avoid!

- 4) Oil Level: the factory KLR oil level sight glass is arguably too low....additionally some KLR's burn oil at various rates so it is imperative that the oil level is constantly checked. Luckily the sight glass makes this very easy to do. My suggestion is to keep the oil level at the very top of the sight glass with the bike level and to check it before every ride and at every fuel stop. The first failure from low oil levels is likely to be the cam bores in the head......and used KLR heads are getting difficult to find and are expensive. Keep an eye on that oil level!

- 5) Overtightening of other fasteners; similar to the oil drain plug there are a few other fasteners that cause significant problems if overtightened; the valve cover bolts are one such fastener - the manual calls up 69 inch lbs (NOT ft. lbs!) but Eaglemike suggests 55 in lbs which is a safer value. Another problem fastener is the footpeg mounting bolts; the factory nuts welded in the frame box are very thin with only 3 or 4 threads catching......these often strip out necessitating a repair. To avoid the problem, consider not using accessories that bolt to the bike using these bolts (i.e. centerstands) and torque them properly. I've heard that some manuals show 45NM (33 ft lbs) and some versions show 25 Nm (18 ft lbs)......I will suggest that the 33 ft lbs is a mistake and too much; I go with the 18 to avoid stripping the nuts and because this value falls in line with the recommended torque for generic 8mm fasteners in the manual. Safety wiring the bolt heads is also a wise precaution as loose bolts take the threads out quickly.

- 6) Throwing away the tube when changing the oil filter. People often mistakenly toss the metal tube that is inserted in the oil filter when they throw the old filter in the trash....make sure it's there and put it back in the right way.

- 7) attempting a counterbalance lever (doohickey) adjusting bolt adjustment without first ensuring the lever and spring are both intact and the spring has tension. Failure to do so can introduce a catastrophic amount of play into the counterbalance chain system.

-8) Not checking fasteners for proper torque at least at every oil change. Especially foot pegs and sub-frame bolts. The fasteners that Kawasaki put in place are adequate, but once torque falls below spec vibration can loosen the fastener. A loose fastener will quickly fail if it is under load.
 

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I hit neutral consistently when wearing sneakers. Almost never happens with my steel toe boots. This has also been consistent with most past rides.
Same here! I often miss 2nd when wearing hiking boots, but never miss when wearing my adventure-bike boots.
 
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