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Picking up my 2008 KLR on Oct 27.
Looking for some good advise on breaking it in.
I've had several new bikes, but this will be my first thumper.
Cheers
 

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Give this a read and then make the determination yourself, I myself did this and my buddy swears my bike feels a bit strong than his, and I have no oil use issues.....This IS the way I did all my car engines when I rebuilt them, without one problem. I now have 5000 miles on my bike since May.


Here is the link:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
 

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yep, same way I break in the air cooled Porsche engines I build as well.
 

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Controversial is definately the right word for his post. However, his whole concept is easily dismissed by common sense, don't even need technical info. No regulation is going to allow vehicle manufacturers to create a product that requires breaking the law in order to break in the engine. They aren't going to allow a company to tell grandma to go out and run her new Mercury hard for it's break in period. They also aren't going to allow these companies to require every owner to put their new car on a dyno to break it in. "Here are your keys and a ticket for the dyno tomorrow".... YEAH RIGHT!

Engines are made so people can simply get in and drive it off the lot and operate it normally from day one.

The guy is probably correct about his max HP stuff, but I doubt it's enough HP to matter in a normal car. I can see high performance and race engines going through this process, but not your standard every day engines.

Yep, common sense wins out against that break-in procedure.
 

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Well, I can tell you personal experience that you don't need to break the law in order to break an engine in, just run it "above average" the first 20 miles or so, like the article says, your trying to get the rings to seat properly. Sure, cars are drive off the lot ready, but bike engines as a whole, aren't run in the same way car engines are, several from the lot are pulled and run to test for various quality issues and that's about it, the rest are spanking new. The engines I build aren't what you would call hi performance by todays standards. I rebuild classic Porsche engines that have anywhere from 36 to about 250 HP depending on the year and model. I had a run of bad luck with rings not seating properly and sought the advice of another engine builder, he basically told me the same thing, take it out and run it moderately hard for about 20 miles at various speeds. That was 10 years ago, never had a premature engine failure yet, not even on my own bikes, cars and quads that I've rebuilt the engines in.

Now you can break in as per the manufacturers recommendations, or not. You may not have one bit of trouble with oil consumption or other problems, then again you just might. I broke mine in the above mentioned way and my last big road trip to Moab, where my average speed out was 76mph {over 1975 miles} I used about 3oz of oil. My bike has about 23000 trouble free miles on it now { well except for the broken doo at 10k}

Manufactures play it safe and take a happy medium with things, they can't rely on joe consumer to do it right so they develop what they feel is the happy "safe" way to do it. It isn't wrong, but it sure could be better.

In the end you need to do what you think is the right thing, you get the info, mull it over and do what the data you gathered tells you, or not.

Have fun, ride safe.
 

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I am curious to see what the rebuttal will be.
I assume you mean me?

I don't really have one, I stand by my original post. This guys break in procedure requires... let's call it "odd driving"... and just isn't going to fly with the big dogs in charge of regulations. I already agreed that the guy is probably right about HP, but overall it just doesn't matter in everyday vehicles for everyday people. This guys technique is best left to people who are obsessed with every HP they can muster even if it means only getting to 60mph 1.5 seconds faster.
 

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What about AFTER the first 20 miles?

OK. So I broke my bike in the way you guys said. Now, I am over the 20 mile mark. Now what? Do you keep riding it a little hard? The manual says break in period is the first 1000 miles. When is the break in complete?
 

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I am assuming since it is the 20 mile mark you broke it in hard? Not the OEM way? If so, ride it like your going to ride it from now on. :) Change the oil at 50, 500, then 1000, then do your normal oil changes from that point on. This is of course just a suggestion. Not everyone like to change the oil that quickly on a new bike, but I think it is prudent to get out the small particulates that will definately appear during the break in period.
 

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Fwiw

The 08 is a different beast.

I've now broken in my bike twice. Same way both times even with the same oil so don't cry that river. I did the motoman's breakin for 50 miles and then rode like I would every day. I ride 50-60 miles a day commuting on the interstate at 70+ mph.

The difference are the 'new rings for improved oil consumption' for the 08's. I put Hastings rings in and after 500+ miles I used noone (I also had the piston coated). Before I was using at a rate of 1qt every 800 miles on backroads for my official leak down test at the dealer. Unofficially I used 1qt every 500 miles on interstate.

Check the parts numbers for the oem rings. They have changed 3 times since the bike hit the market, then look at the piston part numbers. I'm not saying all the 08's burn oil. I believe it is a crap shoot on what parts you get and plus how you use the bike.
 

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Hey guys,
Im buying my 08 KLR650 this week and I am confused as to how I should break it in. Ive read both the manufacturers and the hard breakin method... I am just looking for some guidance. I am very mechanical but only with cars, im not that familliar with bikes.
Thanks
 

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To be honest it all boils down to what your more comfortable doing? I prefer the ride it like your going to ride it theory, but others will argue the factory break in is best. I've done both and had no problems either way. My 07 does burn some oil between changes, but it has done that since day one. The oil burning issue seems to be a luck of the draw when you get the bike. It either will or won't burn oil.
 

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Just had to chime in, here's my 2c.
I did my best to educate myself on the break-in controversy and was leaning toward the hard break-in when I bought my 2007. The bulk of my mechanical experience is with much larger engines some of which were specifically built for racing. The theory I have had in all cases is if it's going to fly apart let's have it happen in the first few minutes here with the tool box open not 100 yds down the quarter mile or when I'm proudly showing it off for the first time. Still somewhat undecided when about to leave the dealership one of the sales staff who is a long time KLR owner said "let it warm up then ride it like you stole it". That's all I needed and I did just that. Being my first KLR I don't have much to compare it to, but it burns less than 1/2 quart of oil between oil changes at roughly 3000 mile intervals. I am also very happy with the power, starting etc. One reason I was hesitant to follow Kawasaki's break-in instructions were the inconsistencies and lack of important information in the manual like when you should adjust the balancer (motor running instead of off) and the fact that it took them 21 years to address the obvious engine problem (doohinky) and still didn't get it right (loose spring). In short I am sure if you follow the manufacturer's recommended break-in regime your bike will run just fine throughout and for years after the warranty period, it just may argueably run better and longer if you beat it like it owes you money for the first few miles. Nuf said.
:character0007:
 

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KLR break-in

I agree, and that's just what I ended up doing. Like you, I have had no oil issues, and it seems to have worked fine.
 
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