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Discussion Starter #1
On the way home tonight ,sat at the lights and the bike stopped running , I hit the start button it rolled over ok but would not go.
Checked the fuel and there was plenty there, pulled off the vacuum hose then the fuel hose, no fuel came out.
Shook the bike back and forward ,hit the start button it hunted then fired up and ran in a fashion then stopped , tried again and it started with the throttle open closed the the throttle and it sputtered with a bit of black smoke out of the exhaust then died (repeat)
Eventually it ran enough to get me home if I held it at 2000 revs at the lights

It is a 2000 with 8000 miles on the clock

Any help will be appreciated

Thanks
 

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Tiptoes -

Some simple things to start with:

You could have a venting issue with the tank, meaning the tank vents that are in the cap are stuck and not allowing the tank to vent. That will build a vacuum in the tank and not let the gas out. You can check for that by running with the filler cap open. If it runs OK with the filler cap open, you may need to attend to the vents.

The petcock is vacuum operated and the vacuum valve may have gone south. You can test for that by disconnecting the fuel hose and directing it into a container, then apply a vacuum to the petcock's vacuum line. That is best done with a separate length of hose that you can suck on. If gas doesn't flow from the petcock in a good solid stream, suspect the petcock. Either rebuild or replace. If a replacement is needed, consider a non-vacuum petcock like the Raptor 660.

The carburetor's inlet valve may be stuck or sticky. This is harder to diagnose without some way to provide constant vacuum to the petcock, but what you should try and do is open the drain at the bottom of the carb and see that fuel comes out. If it doesn't, rap on the side of the carb bowl with a screwdriver handle; that may allow the valve to open and fuel to flow. The fix there is to remove the bowl and float assembly and refresh the valve needle.

If the above seem all OK, you may have an ignition issue.

T
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Tom
Just one thing I did notice or heard was the gas tank squealing when I went into the garage the night before.
 

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OK, those would be the tank vents.

Let me find a good thread for you to look at.

OK, here's the best write-up I've seen on repairing the vent seals, it's over at .net.

This one simply shows how to remove them, it's over on klrworld.

Before digging into them, you'll probably want to take a ride with the cap open to see if it cures the problem.

T
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Opened the cap ,bike stated up and ran for 30-45 secs ,then stopped
Removed the fuel hose from the petcock, removed the vacuum from the carb sucked on it and gas flowed freely.
Installed everything back , started the bike up ran 30secs and stopped

So is it new petcock I need
 

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No, it sounds like the petcock is good and the problem is down stream from there.

Without doing anything else (now that she's stopped running), try these steps:

Unscrew the drain screw (2 or 3 turns; no need to remove it completely) on the bottom of the carb. A bowl's worth of fuel should run out. If no fuel comes out or if it dribbles rather slowly, the inlet valve is wonky.

If fuel does flow out, suck on the petcock's vacuum tube; more fuel should flow out. If it works that way, it's not the inlet valve.

Also, make sure the carburetor vent line has not become clogged. On a 2000, it's the clear line that runs from a plastic elbow on the carb and down the back of the frame, exiting near the front of the swing arm.

T
 

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Yeah, I found that when I was looking for pictures of the cap dis-assembly so that I could take mine apart and make the lock and latch work smoother.

The author is a good wrench who I first ran into over on the Yahoo Groups DSN_KLR650. He's solid.

T
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Undone the drain screw and fuel ran out freely after 1 turn ,I did not check the vacuum hose , and the clear plastic tube looked ok
Also in my original post I said I saw black smoke come of the exhaust just as the bike spluttered to a halt ,well I noticed the pipe was quite thick in soot ,it has always been a nice light brown ?
 

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Thanks Tom
Just one thing I did notice or heard was the gas tank squealing when I went into the garage the night before.
If the tank "Squeals" does this mean there is something wrong with the cap vents and needs to be looked into? I hear mine regularly with the change of temperature (expansion and contraction) and thought nothing of it. Should I investigate?
 

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If the tank "Squeals" does this mean there is something wrong with the cap vents and needs to be looked into? I hear mine regularly with the change of temperature (expansion and contraction) and thought nothing of it. Should I investigate?
Mine does it all the time, especially with the black tank out in the sun, "The Kawasaki Teakettle." I haven't experienced any problems.
 

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Thaylin and planalp -

The squealing sounds mean the vents are working, but I'm not sure if they are supposed to squeal or if that means they're a bit blocked. Mine have never squealed.

If the bike runs as well with the cap off as it does on, it means the vents are working well enough.

Tiptoes - well, we're down to brass tacks, aren't we? You can now be sure that you've got gas all the way into the carburetor bowl and available for pick-up.

If the problem is fuel related you are now at the point where you need to get into the carburetor. The sure-fire way to deal with this is to remove the carburetor, tear it down completely, and give it a good soak in a cleaner, blow out the orifices, jets, and passageways, and reassemble.

Since this was a sudden onset, one possibility is that a bit of crud worked its way into the carb and is blocking something. You could tilt the carb, remove the bowl, and pop the jet assembly and needle jet out and clean them. Watch out for the needle jet - once you remove the jet assembly it will stick in there until you turn your back, then it falls out and rolls under the workbench. Your bike will run like crap without it.

How comfortable are you with carb work? With this carb you need to be especially careful when removing and replacing the diaphragm.

One other thing to check is all of your electrical connections associated with the ignition system. Since you're going to have the tank off, check them all before removing the carburetor. Look for loos grounds, loose or broken connectors, etc. There's a possibility that this may be an intermittent electrical issue. Doesn't seem likely, since you can keep it running at 2000 rpm and since it starts and dies, starts and dies.

T
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The only work I have done is the 22 mod, drilled the slide and turned out the screw 2 1/2 turns
I might not get to the carb until the w/ end
Can I blow out the jets with the air you get in a can the stuff for computers
Could it be the idle jet as it will run with revs
 

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Tiptoes -

I like the air in the can. It's clean and has that tubey thing to get into tight places.

If it is a small piece of crud it could well be in the idle circuit.

T
 

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Simple answer just soak her and then rebuild it with what you have in it now. Search the pinesol solution as it works wonders. I'm half done my 4 barrel on the Willys and it's been sitting with yellow piss in it for 5 years...it's like new where it's been cleaned in pinesol. After the pinesol I squirt carb cleaner spray through each air/fuel passage to make 1000% sure all of the washed out pinesol is gone and then blow each with compressed air. It work well. Cheap too. Soft on the hands as well and it smells better than carb cleaner.
It takes 24 hours to a complete job from what I have found, with a shake during the middle sometime to just get fresh pinesol to the worst areas. Even an old tooth brush if caked in crud.
 

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Simple answer just soak her and then rebuild it with what you have in it now. Search the pinesol solution as it works wonders. I'm half done my 4 barrel on the Willys and it's been sitting with yellow piss in it for 5 years...it's like new where it's been cleaned in pinesol. After the pinesol I squirt carb cleaner spray through each air/fuel passage to make 1000% sure all of the washed out pinesol is gone and then blow each with compressed air. It work well. Cheap too. Soft on the hands as well and it smells better than carb cleaner.
It takes 24 hours to a complete job from what I have found, with a shake during the middle sometime to just get fresh pinesol to the worst areas. Even an old tooth brush if caked in crud.

Gotta ask, do you have the Pinesol concession for Canada? :biglaugh:
 

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yes i do.....I get a buck for each gallon I sell....?????

If you don't like it or haven't tried it....why not?
 
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