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Burned Out My Rear Rotor

1214 Views 54 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  pdwestman
Like the title says, I burned out my rear rotor, but I'm not sure how it happened. I read that it can happen when you adjust your brake pedal - something about the rod blocking the flow of fluid - and now I'm paranoid about how I've set up my own brake lever. I've tried adjusting it up and down , but there's no discernable difference in the pedals travel - it moves about 3/8" from top to total stop at the bottom. Also, there's a slight, soft scraping sound of the new rotor rubbing on the new brake pads. Nothing harsh, but there's definitely contact between the pads and the rotor.
I don't think I'm a mechanical idiot (what idiot does...), but I am mechanically inexperienced, and this is my first brake job on a motorcycle, so I'm not sure how things are supposed to work.
I know the brakes need to bed in, but I'm worried that the slight scraping at speed will burn out my new rotor. Long story short, I can't find much information online and haven't ordered my own shop manual yet (4 kids, braces, food, etc. getting in the way of my fun). I've got a long ride coming up for a training class and don't want to screw my brakes up again.
I'd like the be less mechanically ignorant, and so far I love working on this bike, so any help is appreciated.

ETA: the new pads and rotor are both Tusk, if that matters.
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I was thinking about that. I worried that it might be a little janky, but probably would be fine.
The switch is already junky as is...
I used a stainless steel ring and it's now new and improved. Same split rings I use to build fishing lures.
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I was thinking about that. I worried that it might be a little janky, but probably would be fine.

These bikes are janky from the Showroom floor. Ive owned several bikes. Still own several. And ive worked on a ton. These bikes are the rattle trap of the bike world. Supposedly they are reliable. Idk this is my first. Maybe they are Kind of like the old Festiva, a noisy poorly fitted machine that somehow just works. Idk. But of all the bikes I've been on, the klr makes me think "made in China by 11 year olds" more than any other bike.

I like my klr so far. But 2 seconds on an Africa Twin, tenere, or even a 40 year old gs650, Victory, (known for being junk) or my 70s Honda scrambler and the klr just screams cheap.
These bikes are janky from the Showroom floor. Ive owned several bikes. Still own several. And ive worked on a ton. These bikes are the rattle trap of the bike world. Supposedly they are reliable. Idk this is my first. Maybe they are Kind of like the old Festiva, a noisy poorly fitted machine that somehow just works. Idk. But of all the bikes I've been on, the klr makes me think "made in China by 11 year olds" more than any other bike.

I like my klr so far. But 2 seconds on an Africa Twin, tenere, or even a 40 year old gs650, Victory, (known for being junk) or my 70s Honda scrambler and the klr just screams cheap.
That's definitely true. I knew going in that there was some corner cutting. But decided to pick one up because between the $1000 off promo and the military discount, it was $1200 off an already inexpensive bike.

But they do seem to cut corners in some surprising ways, such as having to buy the relay in order to add accessories such as the 12v socket. I could see not adding the socket. The Africa Twin I purchased in 2016 didn't have one either. But the relay was already there :)

I have a buddy who keeps telling me how reliable they are and how he is on #6 through the years and has had no problems with any of them. But it does beg the question a little about why he is on #6 if they last so long?

So, we will see where it goes with this bike. But I am having some trouble with some surprising things like not being able move the shift lever a spline without it making contact with the frame and trying to lower the brake pedal as low as I would like it.

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I guess they're cheap because … they’re cheap …

Gord🤔
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Yes they are inexpensive and lack features that more expensive bikes have.......but they have average Japanese build quality IME which is to say 1000 x better than any bike actually made in China by 11 year olds! :LOL: .....I could be wrong, my latest KLR is only my 47th motorcycle...

To the OP; I'm guessing that maybe you're riding the rear brake without noticing


Dave
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I'm beginning to think I was riding with my big foot on the lever and just didn't realize it
Happens all the time, don't sweat it. Try to stay loose when riding. Anytime you tense up weird things happen.

Best wishes and remember ride hard ride often for life is short.
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I have a buddy who keeps telling me how reliable they are and how he is on #6 through the years and has had no problems with any of them. But it does beg the question a little about why he is on #6 if they last so long?
Also a lot of my xxxx doesn't work threads too. I don't doubt its reliability but id never heard of one till I bought one. Meanwhile when buying vtx I saw MANY with over 100k miles. Lol.

Then you have the "they are super awesome and never need anything" folks telling you buy a new 7500 dollar bike and then take the side cover off and replace bad chain tensioners...fix the cooling system with a new thermobob (I did btw) take off the foot pegs, change the drain plug.....readjust your steering head.... but a better windshield... and seat

But they need nothing... ever. Lol

I'm a yamaha man btw


Yes they are inexpensive and lack features that more expensive bikes have.......but they have average Japanese build quality IME which is to say 1000 x better than any bike actually made in China by 11 year olds! :LOL: .....I could be wrong, my latest KLR is only my 47th motorcycle...

To the OP; I'm guessing that maybe you're riding the rear brake without noticing


Dave
I have 4 Honda (dads old 93 trx300, his old 69 350 scrambler, 04 vtx, 2 suzuki....the kids 91 lt160, and a ds 185, many yamaha.. 2015 grizzly, 16 kodiak, 02 raptor, 85 moto 4 (first year of 4 wheels...no suspension) 21 viking, 06 R6, 2 kaw...a Tecate 250 and the KLr... some im forgetting in my junk piles no doubt and the few ive sold or totaled .... plus I work on them every day for others.....the klr is sub par built for a Japanese bike PURELY based on build material and fit/ finish. My 85 moto4 doesn't vibrate and rattle like my 23 klr. My Raptor is a big rattling single cylinder with about a billion miles and rattles less. I put 20k miles on an R1 that vibrated so bad at high rpm it would blur your vision and numb your ass and it never rattled. The klr is more CF MOTO/benche/Kazuma/ in build than ANY Japanese machine ive seen or owned. Im sure some were poorly made but ive not owned them. Again only speaking about my gen 3

Not saying the were all great either. Some had quirks for sure. Simply speaking from rattles/paint falling off/misrouted cables/ cable clips missing/....Rattles/vibrations. My banshee took about 100 bucks in parts for every 10 gallon of gas.

And the rattles.....

BIL rides a 16 grizzly and an 0something vtwin brute force . Was never really impressed with its build quality either. Ive rode probably 25 Ninja/Vulcan and they were all fine machines so I don't think it's across the kaw lineup.

As far as reliability/mechanical its far better than the Chinese machines ive seen. No doubt about that. Ive seen MANY fail when pretty much brand new. Mostly carb and wiring issues. Then getting parts is pretty impossible. Lol. Build quality doesn't always mean anything for reliability either. I get a lot of well built subaru that are just junk mechanically IMO. BMW/ AUDI VW too

Ive also worked alongside the engineers from Japan (toyoda being one) and Germany off and on for 20 years....the things they focus on are almost more fit/ finish than any other thing. Other countries not so much. If the engineers from toyoda that ive worked with had as many quality complaints that ive seen on here in my 2 months of ownership....I would not be surprised to hear they hara kiri-ed themselves. They are pretty hardcore. Lol

I'm satisfied with my new KLR. Don't get me wrong. But it feels very much chinese/Korea instead of Japan from my experience of working on a million cars and several bike/quad
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The klr is more CF MOTO/benche/Kazuma/ in build than ANY Japanese machine ive seen or owned
While I don't agree with this statement entirely, I can say that the build quality between the original Gen1 bikes and the Gen3 bike is rather grotesque. The Gen1 bikes being of superior quality.

We've seen this trend in more than one industry where cost is going up and in an effort to control cost they cut quality, sometimes a commensurate amount. All while costs continue to go up regardless.

but they(KLR) have average Japanese build quality IME
I concur.
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putting aside the concept that Gen3's aren't built to the same quality as earlier KLR's, I'd suggest reading this when it comes to questioning the reliability and longevity of a stock KLR (only mods were the EM "doo" and a Thermobob). I'll opine that there aren't very many bikes that have the potential longevity of a well maintained KLR and none of them that do are singles;

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putting aside the concept that Gen3's aren't built to the same quality as earlier KLR's, I'd suggest reading this when it comes to questioning the reliability and longevity of a stock KLR (only mods were the EM "doo" and a Thermobob). I'll opine that there aren't very many bikes that have the potential longevity of a well maintained KLR and none of them that do are singles;

Well said.
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Also a lot of my xxxx doesn't work threads too. I don't doubt its reliability but id never heard of one till I bought one. Meanwhile when buying vtx I saw MANY with over 100k miles. Lol.

Then you have the "they are super awesome and never need anything" folks telling you buy a new 7500 dollar bike and then take the side cover off and replace bad chain tensioners...fix the cooling system with a new thermobob (I did btw) take off the foot pegs, change the drain plug.....readjust your steering head.... but a better windshield... and seat

But they need nothing... ever. Lol

I'm a yamaha man btw




I have 4 Honda (dads old 93 trx300, his old 69 350 scrambler, 04 vtx, 2 suzuki....the kids 91 lt160, and a ds 185, many yamaha.. 2015 grizzly, 16 kodiak, 02 raptor, 85 moto 4 (first year of 4 wheels...no suspension) 21 viking, 06 R6, 2 kaw...a Tecate 250 and the KLr... some im forgetting in my junk piles no doubt and the few ive sold or totaled .... plus I work on them every day for others.....the klr is sub par built for a Japanese bike PURELY based on build material and fit/ finish. My 85 moto4 doesn't vibrate and rattle like my 23 klr. My Raptor is a big rattling single cylinder with about a billion miles and rattles less. I put 20k miles on an R1 that vibrated so bad at high rpm it would blur your vision and numb your ass and it never rattled. The klr is more CF MOTO/benche/Kazuma/ in build than ANY Japanese machine ive seen or owned. Im sure some were poorly made but ive not owned them. Again only speaking about my gen 3

Not saying the were all great either. Some had quirks for sure. Simply speaking from rattles/paint falling off/misrouted cables/ cable clips missing/....Rattles/vibrations. My banshee took about 100 bucks in parts for every 10 gallon of gas.

And the rattles.....

BIL rides a 16 grizzly and an 0something vtwin brute force . Was never really impressed with its build quality either. Ive rode probably 25 Ninja/Vulcan and they were all fine machines so I don't think it's across the kaw lineup.

As far as reliability/mechanical its far better than the Chinese machines ive seen. No doubt about that. Ive seen MANY fail when pretty much brand new. Mostly carb and wiring issues. Then getting parts is pretty impossible. Lol. Build quality doesn't always mean anything for reliability either. I get a lot of well built subaru that are just junk mechanically IMO. BMW/ AUDI VW too

Ive also worked alongside the engineers from Japan (toyoda being one) and Germany off and on for 20 years....the things they focus on are almost more fit/ finish than any other thing. Other countries not so much. If the engineers from toyoda that ive worked with had as many quality complaints that ive seen on here in my 2 months of ownership....I would not be surprised to hear they hara kiri-ed themselves. They are pretty hardcore. Lol

I'm satisfied with my new KLR. Don't get me wrong. But it feels very much chinese/Korea instead of Japan from my experience of working on a million cars and several bike/quad
I don't have the energy to get into a protracted debate so just a couple of points;

- 1) you don't NEED to do any modifications to a KLR other than perhaps the gen1 balance lever replacement. KLR's are inexpensive dual purpose bikes and since everybody's usage, experience, expectations and budgets are different, mods to make them more "mission specific" are prolific. Nothing wrong with that IMO. If I spent a KTM690R amount of money, I'd be less happy about the mods required to make my KLR's work as I want them to.

- 2) Again, after 48 years of riding, 47 motorcycles and 30 years of racing offroad, in MY experience the KLR's are pretty middle of the road for Japanese build quality which is better than bikes built almost anywhere else. I will say that I think Honda has better "fit and finish" in a general view compared to the other Japanese bikes.....Suzuki, Yamaha and Kawi have been very similar from what I've seenover the years. Every actual Chinese built bike I've seen or worked on has been vastly inferior to any Japanese bike.... you couldn't give me one. Some of the worst "fit and finish" issues I've seen were on Gas Gas, Beta and even early KTM's.


Cheers,
Dave
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putting aside the concept that Gen3's aren't built to the same quality as earlier KLR's, I'd suggest reading this when it comes to questioning the reliability and longevity of a stock KLR (only mods were the EM "doo" and a Thermobob). I'll opine that there aren't very many bikes that have the potential longevity of a well maintained KLR and none of them that do are singles;




Again, after 48 years of riding, 47 motorcycles and 30 years of racing offroad, in MY experience the KLR's are pretty middle of the road for Japanese build quality which is better than bikes built almost anywhere else. I will say that I think Honda has better "fit and finish" in a general view compared to the other Japanese bikes..

We aren't disagreeing on much. Lol. I just finished 50 miles on my klr. 85% dirt and fire roads because I'm trying to get better there. My 30+ years if riding was street and track. I rode 3 or 4 wheels on dirt. I bought the klr for simplicity and to be a daily. I don't doubt its reliability. I bought one when I could have bought any bike. I sat on several triumph, Honda, KTM, and Yamaha . Even a tenere (and tracer)..my riding/ shooting acquaintance owns a yamaha dealership. Lol. I jumped ship from pretty much entirely Yamaha/Honda for the KLR. I researched...sit on some...and chose the KLR. It wasn't lack of options or funds.

So I'm not just thrashing the KLR. Simply saying no expense was put into materials or finish/exposed cables etc. Lol. And it makes noises that ive not heard in 30+ years of riding everything from singles to 6 cylinder bikes (and even one v8).

And I wear a full face helmet and flunk every yearly hearing test I get at work. So it's just a noisy beast. Lol

My victory has 30k miles. More than most bikes. And it's admittedly trash and always was. 3 generations of transmissions 2 generation of display and yep....it broke a valve like the early ones did. But I own a shop and get free labor so I just fix it and move on. Lol. Fit and finish is great too. Pleasure to ride but I'll never trust one. Lol. My R1 had 20k and never a bolt turned. Had 10k on an r6 I crashed. And both of those seen HARD track use.

Id bet 90% of bikes that never see 50k miles are crashed or just never ridden enough. Not necessarily broke down. Especially since efi

To the OP. Admittedly im a sportbike guy. I use next to no rear brake. BUT after my 50 miles of dirt and a little pavement today where I am trying to get more experience... my rear rotor was 86 degrees on my gen3. If your getting that hot something is wrong or your riding it.
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Yes they are inexpensive and lack features that more expensive bikes have.......but they have average Japanese build quality IME which is to say 1000 x better than any bike actually made in China by 11 year olds! :LOL: .....I could be wrong, my latest KLR is only my 47th motorcycle...

To the OP; I'm guessing that maybe you're riding the rear brake without noticing

That's my deduction as well, as it also explains a couple of experiences while riding. It's a wonder I can feel anything in my riding boots, but I'd rather have unbroken feet and ankles and learn to ride better.


Dave
Happens all the time, don't sweat it. Try to stay loose when riding. Anytime you tense up weird things happen.

Best wishes and remember ride hard ride often for life is short.
Thank for the kind words.

To all yous guys saying the KLR is cheap and crappy, why'd you buy one? There's nearly 40 years of history and it's quality - or lack thereof - is well known, lamented, and celebrated. KLRista's are famously frugal and committed DIY'ers. I bought mine knowing full well it wasn't a Tenere, Africa Twin, BMW, etc. bc I wanted a bike to learn to wrench on, that wouldn't cause my wife or kids to be put out by a huge payment, and that would allow me to learn without the bike shooting out from under me. This thread was about me being mildly idiotic and needing some advice about rear brakes. Why it turned into a gripe fest is beyond me (other than, "the internet"), but maybe just enjoy the bike for what it is or get something else. "Comparison is the thief of joy." - Teddy Roosevelt.
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Comparison is the thief of joy." - Teddy Roosevelt.
That’s a great quote. “Thread drift” is very common on here, but in the mix of all that’s said, one usually gets their issues addressed. It just comes with the territory😉😎
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That’s a great quote. “Thread drift” is very common on here, but in the mix of all that’s said, one usually gets their issues addressed. It just comes with the territory😉😎

Not just drifts on here. Anywhere. Even in person. Lol

I did put an actual laser thermo measured temp though to make up for my drifting. I try to be helpful. Lol
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That’s a great quote. “Thread drift” is very common on here, but in the mix of all that’s said, one usually gets their issues addressed. It just comes with the territory😉😎
Not just drifts on here. Anywhere. Even in person. Lol

I did put an actual laser thermo measured temp though to make up for my drifting. I try to be helpful. Lol
I've lurked in enough forums to see that stuff happen, which is why I don't contribute too much. I try not to say anything unless I have something to add - making up for all the yapping I did as a younger man. I don't mind thread drift, its a natural part of conversation and usually a welcome one, but when it comes out of left field and for no apparent good reason, it just boggles me.
I'll suggest that most of you newer owners need to read the sticker on or near the steering neck.
"Made in Thailand".

But even so the apparent lack of Proper dealer set-up that I've been reading on these pages nowadays seems to be totally appalling.
And some of the specs in the owners & service manuals are just plain wrong.
Oil Quantity / Chain Slack / Tire Pressures / Torque Specs
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But even so the apparent lack of Proper dealer set-up that I've been reading on these pages nowadays seems to be totally appalling.

Not just the dealership but the Thailand assembly as well. Not that it is a Thailand problem. I see American and Japanese cars on my lift all day and see stupid assembly mistakes a lot. Lines and wires and hoses beside their clips, missing rivets and bolts etc.


Took my factory 15 lb muffler off a while ago for my new 7 lb yoshi. The muffler bolts were tight and marked by someone....the 6mm muffler clamp could be turned out by hand. Lol. One of the 4mm side cover bolts was all but out too. The other two were stupid tight. One I had to use an impact screwdriver to get to turn. I guess the two 12mm through bolts held the muffler firmly enough that the clamp didn't. Those two do look to be stainless at least.

But just on mine we have the head bearing too tight, chain way off by a full mark. Half the cables out of the holder on the left of the triple tree, and a never tightened exhaust clamp.

Oil level was good btw.
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Aren't KLRs are assembled in Thailand not Taiwan?
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To all yous guys saying the KLR is cheap and crappy, why'd you buy one?

The first option. Cheap. And I didn't say crappy. Just terrible fit/ finish/materials on non-structural parts. If I thought it were crappy, I would have bought something else

I just needed a slow beater that was half comfortable and capable of 20-30 percent gravel roads for a daily. I have several other bike for other uses.

And by gravel roads I mean steep and washed out terrible gravel roads. I bottomed out a 70s f250 sitting on 35s in one of our state "roads" one time...they are that bad. Lol .

As far as speed...I come from Supersport 600 and liter bikes (street AND track and strip use as well) and the slowest road bike ive ever owned is my 1500 Victory.. The very first bike I ever rode on road was an early 2000s R1. My first purchased bike was an R6 . I really don't find the klr to be all that lethargic. I feel like I could ride with my big vtx or my Supersports anywhere. Obviously not RACE with them or run the 1/4, but as far as street riding, even spirited riding I can accelerate up to 70 on any steep hill pretty quick. I don't see all the issue. I ride across deals and shady semi regularly and I don't get left behind. Its no doubt in a whole different world, power wise, but on the street I don't see it much. I believe braking is a weaker point for twisty street riding than power

If I intend to run above 70 for long.. I take a different bike. I'm also in decent shape and don't haul around 300lb on my bike. If I need payload I take something with 4 wheels.
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