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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone. Haven't been on the forums for a while and stoked that spring is finally here!

So, the problem: I was getting my 2012 Klr 650 set up after it was sitting all winter long and I was doing a full tear down of the carb to get it all cleaned up. I haven't messed with this carb since buying the klr new in 2012, so, there was the metal cap on the air/fuel mixture screw that I had drilled and then screwed a small screw into. Then as I grabbed the screw with some pliers and attempted to pull the metal cap off, pulling the carb the other way with my other hand... Yep the carb landed on the ground 5 ft away and broke the bottom plastic elbow barb (I think this is holds a vacuum tube??). It is the bottom of the two plastic barbs that has the coaster enricher in between them.

While doing this teardown, I had a youtube vid that was assisting me and on the carb in that video, those two plastic elbow barbs were removable (after removing the metal bracket on the coaster enricher). Well there is no bracket on my carburator and apperently after contacting the dealer for a replacement elbow barb they said that those plastic elbows are part of the carb itself and are not replaceable. This may be well known to many of you on this forum, but, my search didn't bring up anything.

What do I do now?? Is there a common fix to this with some aftermarket elbows?
This is really pissing me off that Kawasaki would build these plastic elbows into the carb. Theres got to be more guys out there that have screwed this up like me. :banghead:

Without any of your guys ideas I'm thinking of finding a similar brass elbow and tig welding it to the small brass looking fitting that is currently still there (forgot to mention that the plastic busted off a brass fitting that holds the plastic attached to the carb.)

Appreciate anyone who can help! -Tyler.
 

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outdoort,
OMG! Why did KEIHIN Carburators (A Honda subsidiary by the WAY), switch to the Permanently molded on carb-dip safe, Fuel line(bottom one) and vent hose fittings, like used on the smaller carbs which are used on Kawasaki ATV's! OMG!!!!!

According to the parts screen, this change took place in the 2010 model year, which You just caught Me off-guard with. Thanks for the 'heads-up'.

Now to fix it. I do not think you can tig weld brass, even to brass!
But you can Solder brass to brass. Which I have successfully done to several of the ATV carbs.
First I'd saw off the excess threads of a brass elbow of the proper size. (Not much space between the KLR carb and the electrics)
Then file the mating surfaces, clean and 'Bright'. Using a small flame of Propane Torch, I'd tin both surfaces.
Now with an extra pair of hands, have someone holding an awl or center punch, balance and press the elbow onto the brass fitting of the carb.
Heat the BODY of the Brass ELBOW, until the solder flows.
Be certain the person holding the elbow REMAINS holding til the solder cools.

Its a little tricky, but it can be Done! Good Luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
outdoort,
OMG! Why did KEIHIN Carburators (A Honda subsidiary by the WAY), switch to the Permanently molded on carb-dip safe, Fuel line(bottom one) and vent hose fittings, like used on the smaller carbs which are used on Kawasaki ATV's! OMG!!!!!

According to the parts screen, this change took place in the 2010 model year, which You just caught Me off-guard with. Thanks for the 'heads-up'.

Now to fix it. I do not think you can tig weld brass, even to brass!
But you can Solder brass to brass. Which I have successfully done to several of the ATV carbs.
First I'd saw off the excess threads of a brass elbow of the proper size. (Not much space between the KLR carb and the electrics)
Then file the mating surfaces, clean and 'Bright'. Using a small flame of Propane Torch, I'd tin both surfaces.
Now with an extra pair of hands, have someone holding an awl or center punch, balance and press the elbow onto the brass fitting of the carb.
Heat the BODY of the Brass ELBOW, until the solder flows.
Be certain the person holding the elbow REMAINS holding til the solder cools.

Its a little tricky, but it can be Done! Good Luck.
Thanks man. Ya way to cheap out Kawasaki! Brass can be tig welded, its just hard to do cuz of the zinc in it. I might remove the old nipple that had the plastic fitting on it and try using some aluminum bronze filler and tig that together.
I really just don't want to have to deal with that right now though. Welding cast aluminum to bronze :banghead: nothing says nightmare more for a weld lol.
Brazing is another option (like your solder idea). I was just hoping someone to pop in and be like "theres aftermarket replacement full brass nipples that you can buy and friction press in".
 

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outdoort-

There is a guy who commented on the first of my videos (CVK40 Carb Overhaul Video #1). He goes by 'Angelo's Workbench' on YouTube ( https://www.youtube.com/user/angeloz1073 )

He and I were having a short discussion on the new carbs, especially the elbows. Here's what he had to say:

"...Other than that and the plastic elbow differences our carbs are indentical. I found out about pressed in elbows googling Harley Davidson guys working on their CV carbs. A lot of them break off the plastic elbows and press in brass counterparts to be rid of the plastic."

You might want to go to his YouTube channel and message him to see if he has any particulars about where to get the brass elbows that the Harley guys are using.

I have seen them on a website that has parts for the Sportster carb, but I don't know if that is what he is talking about. They are here.

This seems to be how you do it.

It might be the path of least resistance...

Tom
 

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"It might be the path of least resistance," Tom said easily.
 

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I was going to suggest to get a 1/4" brass elbow from a hard hardware store, file to fit and JB Weld to stay. Those elbows for the CV carb at the Harley Sportster site look like they would work fine.

I pulled the fuel line off the inlet elbow on my 2011 a couple of days ago and was pleased to find there is a tiny little final fuel filter that fits in the elbow to catch any bits of petcock diaphragm or fuel line that break loose.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thank you all for all your responses; Tom Schmitz, You gave me exactly what I needed. Within your link the article mentioned that Harley Davidson dealers have both the oem plastic and brass elbows for those older cv 40 carburetors on the sporsters.

Harley Davidson of Somerset Pa. hooked it up and had two of these brass elbows in stock for 12 dollars each. I decided to remove the other plastic elbow and press a brass one in too. I got them installed this evening and it went well. I actually think after doing this, that this is a mod that should probably be done if your bike has a newer carb like mine (or carry a spare). I wouldn't want to be clearing a carb in the middle of nowhere and drop the carb only to break the plastic elbow and be stranded.

Only thing about the harley D. elbows is that the male end that gets pressed into the carb is a little longer than the Kawi. plastic bottom elbow, and a little bit more longer compared to the top Kawasaki elbow.

In Tom Schmitz link, the how to mentioned taping the brass fitting after breaking the plastic over it and using a long 1/4 bolt and washer setup to pull the pressed brass fitting out.
I didn't do this, I just put the brass fitting in a vice and grabbed ahold of the carb (made sure I had a good grip this time) and just twisted and pulled the carb off the fitting. This worked well for both and I didn't even break the plastic on the top plastic elbow. I did have the carb submerged in pine sol for about two days now before doing it this evening so I don't know if that assisted in ease of removal.

Heres some pics of what I did. The brass elbows stick out a little more that oem but its not a lot. They are very secure in the carb too. It was a nice tight fit and you cant pull or twist them by hand after there in.

046.jpg
045.jpg
048.jpg
038.jpg
035.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Oh and also I didn't actually use a press to get these brass elbows in. I just used a hammer and a 2x4 wood. It was real easy just in case someone is wondering.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hey guys, additional question. I want to put this thing back together but I noticed the boot that goes between the airbox and the carb is loose where it attaches to the airbox. Its not bad, but the factory sealent is coming off near the top.
So, what should I do about this? I don't really have anything on hand to seal this up. Go buy some silicone, Rtv, Shoe glue? Whatever you use, it will have to flex from removing and installing the carb (thats why I thought shoe glue).
 

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outdoort-

I'm glad to hear that you got the issue resolved! I think it'll go in the "Common Mods" thread.

That airbox to boot joint needs to be sealed up. Paul can probably tell you what to use. Shoe Goo might work, as might roofing sealant, but I'm sure there's a proper sealant that you can get for it. It does need to remain flexible; I'd worry about silicone sticking to it well enough.

Tom
 

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outdoort and Tom S.,
Actually, 'Shoe-goo' may be as good as anything. Nothing in the books about it.
But, how does one SEAL around the 'entire' circumference of the air duct, with-out removal of the rear sub-frame and air box assembly??

My only other suggestion is 'Mercury Marine, Quicksilver, Bellows Adhesive, #92-86166Q 1'.
So similar to 3M Weather-Strip Adhesive (contact-cement), other than color, it ain't funny.

Maybe this is one of the ITEMS that 'Sunken-man' had issues with?
I do wish he would start a Thread!!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ya I think the reason the factory glue/sealant came loose was from my removal of the carb and the pull I put on it trying to remove it. Keep in mind that this is only my second time removing the carb.

This evening what I did was there was a local wholesale auto shop that had : 3m weatherstrip adhesive part # 08008. I figured this would work well so I gave it a try this evening. I ended up having to remove the boot from the air box. No removal of the subframe or the airbox (that would have been a big pain in the ass).

Tip for removal and install of the boot: push in on one side of the boot around the airbox seal and let it fold in on itself, then pull out from airbox. A hulk handed pull from the airbox alone didn't work for me.
I put a nice bead of the 3m adhesive in the groove that the airbox plastic inserts into around the boot and folded a part of the boot in with my thumb and squeezed it with my right pointer and middle finger and gently manuvered it throught the subframe and into the airbox within the groove of the boot.

I do still believe that shoe glue may work well ( in the auto world a trick that's I've heard to be common is to use shoe glue to glue a door window to the rubber friction plate that pushes the window up and down within the door. This is cuz the shoe glue is designed to be flexible).
 

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Discussion Starter #14
outdoort-

I'm glad to hear that you got the issue resolved! I think it'll go in the "Common Mods" thread.

That airbox to boot joint needs to be sealed up. Paul can probably tell you what to use. Shoe Goo might work, as might roofing sealant, but I'm sure there's a proper sealant that you can get for it. It does need to remain flexible; I'd worry about silicone sticking to it well enough.

Tom
Glad my thread is helpful Tom! And thanks again for your suggestion and link as that is where my solution stemmed from.
 
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