[jiggseob]

My 08 came to me with a center stand, I don't know if its happy trails or who manufactures it, but the mount for the center stand uses the footpeg bolts. A couple of up/down cycles of the center stand, and the footpeg bolts loosen off. Riding with potentially self-detaching footpegs is not good. Looking at how the center stand works, you hump the bike up and rearward onto the center stand, and as the center stand over-centers, the whole mass of the bike moving rearward hits the stop of the center stand. The force of the 450lbs of bike hitting the center stand stop is transferred to the footpeg mount bolts, that are like 3/4" apart. Those two bolts are adequate to hold me on the footpegs. Add the huge torque force of 450 lbs on the end of the 1-foot lever of the center stand, and those two bolts are loaded WAY beyond their design strength:

So its no surprise that the footpeg mount bolts loosen off, and probably something of a miracle that they have not yet failed.

So my scheme is to brace the center stand forward about six inches to the skidplate mount tabs, and then when the mass of the bike hits the end of travel on the center stand, the torque will be distributed over a much larger lever. This is the start of the brace of the center stand, about six inches forward:

Yes, at this point those two forward braces are just welded-on tabs of 1/8x2" flat-bar, and have very little strength. The two skidplate mounting tabs and the 6mm bolts are not going to take the load, the actual load will be a very strong push-up onto the tubing of the frame.

I add some boxed gussets to the tabs back to the side-to-side frame of the center stand

All of it made from 1/8 x 2" flatbar and 1/8 x 1-1/2 angle steel carved and cut and welded. As you can see, I am not a professional welder, still some spatter cleanup and painting to do, Just checking to make sure it fits.

This all started because I'm going to put lowering links on the rear and drop the forks in the triple clamps on the front. So I had the center stand off to think about shortening it.

A question for those with center stands AND lowering, after lowering does one need to saw the legs off the center stand? I'm already prepared for the cutting/welding of the side-stand to compensate for lowering.

 

[DPelletier]

Well, that should definitely help though I'm not a fan of centerstands, lowering links, reducing ground clearance or adding weight.

From my "Top New KLR Owner Mistakes to avoid" ;

- 5) Overtightening of other fasteners; similar to the oil drain plug there are a few other fasteners that cause significant problems if overtightened; the valve cover bolts are one such fastener - the manual calls up 69 inch lbs (NOT ft. lbs!) but Eaglemike suggests 55 in lbs which is a safer value. Another problem fastener is the footpeg mounting bolts; the factory nuts welded in the frame box are very thin with only 3 or 4 threads catching......these often strip out necessitating a repair. To avoid the problem, consider not using accessories that bolt to the bike using these bolts (i.e. centerstands) and torque them properly...

2 cents,
Dave

 

[pdwestman]

Even a 1/2" too long of legs on a center stand will make them near impossible to deploy. But a longer/better curved 'toe' on the stands feet can help a LOT!
Before your footrest mounting Threads totally fail read this article,

Post Page

www.souperdoo.com

 

[jiggseob]

Thanks for the recommendations.

I pretty much have to lower the bike to make it easier to handle. I'll have see what its like to live with the compromise ride. I will not toss away the stock links in case I have to go back. Maybe its my lack of skill, lack of strength, lack of technique, whatever, but I had a few ugly drops last season, just parking-lot maneuvering where I lose footing and down I go. Enough that when I walk into the shop to go for a ride, I end up taking the Honda Shadow just because its easier. And then missing out on the dirt roads and old railroad trails.

I had seen that stripped footpeg nut fix before, my welding is no where near that good. Now that I've read it again in more detail, I notice the up-size of the bolts, definitely an improvement. My footpeg bolts had self-loosened a couple times last riding season. The mod to the center stand has only cost some scrap steel and a few rods. If I have to drill out the mount nuts and pay a real welder to mig them in that will present the outlay of cash and/or beer. But then they would be more properly sized 10mm bolts.

Shorten the legs on the center stand. Shorten them some more if necessary. Maybe re-lengthen them if lowering does not work-out. Lengthen the centerstand foot lever. That this center stand is being a pain, I may just give up and pitch it.

 

[eamartin]

"A question for those with center stands AND lowering, after lowering does one need to saw the legs off the center stand? I'm already prepared for the cutting/welding of the side-stand to compensate for lowering."
jiggseob, I have always just purchased a lowered centerstand to go with my lowering links. As I get older I find that it helps to roll the rear tire onto a 2 X 4 before activating the centerstand. I don't have to lift the bike so high if the rear tire is already elevated a bit .

 

[Tom Schmitz]

Is lighter.
Is faster.
Is customizable.
Is iconic.
Is available in Kenny Endo Signature Edition.
Is genuine organic.
Is non-GMO.
Is club.
Is 1/2 nunchuck; will swipe right on mahogany. There is no Bruce Lee Signature Edition. He be daid.

Is Stick®©Ⓤ pat. pending.

 

[Rick53]

Glad I saw these posts, was thinking about a centre stand (maybe). Since I have no welding skills I’ll stick with my trail jack. Even though it’s not organic, it’s Canadian.😁

 

[jiggseob]

I do like the Tom S. piece of hickory pick-axe handle for out-of-the-shop needs to raise the rear tire. Could double as a billy-club if you have to suppress an uprising.

Not sure which way I go, cut/shorten the center stand I have or throw away.... The more I think about it, the more I want nothing to do with the trouble of stripped out footpeg nuts.

When my bikes are in my shop I like to have them lined-up and standing up straight, not tilted over. Just let the KLR exist in a tilted state. Get over it.

 

[MTKKLR]

Yes I made the mistake of getting a center stand for my 03. Ruined all four footpeg bolts. Over time they stripped so bad I couldn't even unscrew them. Had to "pull" them out a tap new threads. Constantly lowering and lifting and the bolts taking the majority of the brunt with each time. Need to find something that attaches to the frame.....

 

[PeteK]

I’ve looked at the centerstand stress problem too. I have one on my 2013 Gen2 bike, but at some point in the past a PO did the mod of welding in M10 nuts to replace the weaker OEM M8 tabs. Seems plenty strong and has held up well. It’s easier than creating and welding brackets onto the frame or centerstand.

However, another other option I’ve considered for my Gen1 (which does not currently have a centerstand): shift the arm that you step on to push down the centerstand so that it lays against the ground when deployed. A little cutting and welding would be enough for this mod. At least on hard surfaces, that would prevent the centerstand from over-rotating and putting that impact load on the footpeg brackets. I had a Yamaha XJ-650 with a centerstand from the factory that worked this way. It proved pretty durable too. In fact it was strong enough that when you stepped down hard on that arm, it helped lever the bike up. Old airhead BMWs had a similar kind of stand.

 

[Hvymax]

I've already tapped mine out to 3/8". I get bolts long enough to bottom out and use a washer or 2 to take up the slack. Killing the bolts with a tack weld will keep them from loosening as will safety wire.

 

[Yellowjacket]

I just bought the centerstand from T-Rex and found that the mounting bolts provided are too long and they're digging into the frame. Glad I didn't go too crazy tightening them down because I noticed that they stopped just a little shy of seating with the provided lock washer. I wished I'd found and read this posting before buying because I almost went with the much cheaper enduro stand. Could slightly too long bolts that aren't seated properly be causing some of these issues with blowing out the threads? I'm adding thread locker and a couple of flat washers to space them out where they'll actually seat. (Unless I was sent a Gen1 kit instead of a Gen2.)

 

[DPelletier]

It certainly doesn't help, but no, the factory mounting is just weak and centerstands that mount to them just increase the stress they are under.

 

[Yellowjacket]

Great. Now I'm having doubts about mounting the thing.

 

[PeteK]

Yellowjacket: be sure to search and read other threads about centerstands. Personally, I like them. Since you already bought it, I’d suggest you install it and use it. Your thinking about spacing the bolts out so they seat firmly is correct. Also note the tightening torque, and do not exceed it. Those frame tabs are notorious for stripping if overtorqued.

When you use the centerstand, be gentle with it and it will last. Don’t yank it up on the centerstand hard enough that it slams against its stops. Use the centerstand on level ground!

 

[Yellowjacket]

Thanks for the tips PeteK. I went to the hardware store and got some slightly shorter bolts along with some Loctite thread lock. Very easy to install except for the spring-I used a long flat blade to pull it up and then used a car door spring compressor held open with a chunk of wood to allow me to slip out the flat blade. I found the easiest way to roll it onto the centerstand is to grab the Tusk engine guard with foot on the centerstand pad and sort of roll up onto it. Looking at the tabs holding the nuts for the footrests I see why there's a problem. I have my own sort of torque method by using a 3/8" drive ratchet with my fingers near the socket head holding it and not in my fist as it prevents me from really putting the hurt on. Now it's time to see what next 'add on' catches my eye that I really don't need but will find some impossible scenario that'll justify buying it.

 

[Hvymax]

I just bought the centerstand from T-Rex and found that the mounting bolts provided are too long and they're digging into the frame. Glad I didn't go too crazy tightening them down because I noticed that they stopped just a little shy of seating with the provided lock washer. I wished I'd found and read this posting before buying because I almost went with the much cheaper enduro stand. Could slightly too long bolts that aren't seated properly be causing some of these issues with blowing out the threads? I'm adding thread locker and a couple of flat washers to space them out where they'll actually seat. (Unless I was sent a Gen1 kit instead of a Gen2.)

You could always add a washer or trim the bolts with a grinder.

 

[Yellowjacket]

You could always add a washer or trim the bolts with a grinder.

Oh how I wish I could. I live in an apartment and have no garage. Using the Dremmel in the sink just isn't practical.

 

[DirtWeasel]

I drilled and put Heli coils in my foot peg nuts and then put in slightly longer bolts with blue Loctite on them about 5 years ago. I weigh 250 lbs. and I do a lot of offroad on my KLR. They have not loosened one bit since the upgrade.

 

[Yellowjacket]

I drilled and put Heli coils in my foot peg nuts and then put in slightly longer bolts with blue Loctite on them about 5 years ago. I weigh 250 lbs. and I do a lot of offroad on my KLR. They have not loosened one bit since the upgrade.

Yea I put blue Loctite on mine also. While on the new centerstand I found the aftermarket 'bling' aluminum side bolt was super loose. Added Loctite to it also and I'll probably add a locknut for good measure. Good to hear you're trouble free. Reading other posts with the opinion that the centerstand hangs too low, I'm curious if it's caused you any off road issues.