I cut down some "L" brackets from a hardware store and added them so the leg of the "L" is just to the outside of the stock brackets. This allows me to move the chain cover out another 1/8" or so to clear the tire.
2 week old bike.
Humm, I'm going to suggest that the selling dealership Assembly and Preparation kid did not follow the A & P instructions and properly adjust the drive chain!
They (KLR's) all come from the factory adjusted Too Tight and sometimes miss-aligned. (Chances are your headlight is still aimed too high also.)
You should be able to 'just almost touch' the lower run of the drive chain to the rear tip of the rubber chain slider under the swing arm when lifted with your finger tip.
Chain adjusters just barely rearward of mark #2.
There is usually about a 1/4 inch of tire to guard clearance with stock tire.
The black bicycle chain one. Lol. The tire and chain all seem to be adjusted correctly. It's just that black plastic is right up on the tire. Though it didn't stop me from taking a ride earlier. It's 46 here in central Florida ...Love those hand guards.
I have adjusted my chain on the sidestand to looser than
spec and still had it go tight when I sat my 150 lbs on the bike.
Now with the bike being over 6 years old and starting it's next
chain it's pretty easy for my mental service manual to do 2 1/2"
inches of bounce at the bottom center and the axle tapped forward
against the stops. Sitting on the bike gives about an inch and a half of slop.
Suspension is stock on the #5 stiff setting.
BTW, I run no chainguards upper or lower. Lifelong thing. Once ever got
a stick caught in there and tossed off the chain. They look stoopid, get in
the way, and I've never met a person in my life who ever got caught in the
running gear/ drivetrain. Putting that lil' plastic block back on that guides the chain
into the rear sprocket. That's where the stick jammed last fall and it was off
only this summer. Didn't take all that long for a flotsam to find it's way in there.
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