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Discussion Starter #1
hey guys, its my first time changing the oil on my klr that i bought a couple weeks ago. i changed the oil and the oil filter. i let it run for a bit yesterday after i finished. i get on the bike today and it wont turn over plus gives me a buzzing noise from the carburetor area.

what is going on? what could i have possibly done? (drain oil, replace filter, replace oil plug, fill with oil(4cycle 10w-40)

please help.:character00271:
 

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The Carburator is close to the starter motor.

Is it possible the starter motor is the source of the buzz? You could place your hand on the starter motor to feel for vibrations.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
hmm to be honest im not sure. i have it set up to charge the battery right now, as per anothers suggestion. but i would say that there is definitely a buzz and a vibration (perhaps from aft of the carb.)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
i was able to push start it earlier today and it started up. i let it run for a good 20 minutes. it appears to be starting up (with the start button) but still a series of those quick battery clicks just before it turns over completely. should i assume i have a battery problem? im gonna get it checked out tomorrow.

ive narrowed down that the buzzing noise is battery related. correct?
 

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I would say the buzzing noise is the starter relay which is located under the black cover L/H side down near carbi. A dud battery with low volts could not quite have enough power to throw the relay and hold it, instead it "buzzes" back and forth, my WR450 does exactly this if the battery gets low. Or if battery has good voltage the relay its self may be stuffed or battery has a bad earth.
 

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Could be totally coincidental. Same thing happened to me once right after I changed the oil. Pull the battery and check fluid level.
I found mine was really low and even when I filled it up it wouldn't hold a charge.
 

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Have you checked your battery terminals? Are they clean and tight?

Loose or bad terminal connections can make the starter relay "chatter".
 

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I previously suggested a test procedure that would identify, with some certainty, whether your electrical storage and/or generation system (i.e., battery and alternator/rectifier) might be the problem (i.e., JUMP the battery with a known hot battery).

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
pulled the battery, got it checked. was only giving like 2 amp hours. should be giving 14. new battery installed. klr started.

and im back in the game!

thanks for all the help and suggestions.
 

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pulled the battery, got it checked. was only giving like 2 amp hours. should be giving 14. new battery installed. klr started.

and im back in the game!

thanks for all the help and suggestions.
good news....personally think the KLR requires a kick-starter....
 

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good news....personally think the KLR requires a kick-starter....
I heard someone with an aftermarket kicker say it is really really hard to start with the kick when warm, and you have to be superman to kick it cold.
 

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I heard someone with an aftermarket kicker say it is really really hard to start with the kick when warm, and you have to be superman to kick it cold.
KLR600's had kick starters, and--early on, a kick starter was an optional accessory for KLR650's. Kawasaki sold an owner-installed kick starter kit.

With the KACR (Kawasaki Automatic Compression Release), still installed on all KLR650's, I'd think kick-starting a doable do.

Some KLRistas have gone to the effort of installing an obsolete clutch (I think they're '96 models, or older, necessary for the factory kick starter installation) and cannibalized KLR600 kick starter parts for that capability; hadn't heard of any hard starting issues, but--going to the considerable effort to implant a kick starter, they might not want to admit any downside.
 
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