Kawasaki KLR Forum banner

1 - 20 of 44 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Apparently there's a knock-off header for Gen 1 KLR's on ebay. :surprise:
Has anyone tried one of these? If not, I'm half tempted to report back to everyone what the fitment and build quality is like.
They're shiny, but shiny isn't always good. I had ebay headers on my Legacy wagon when I had it. They looked nice and the welds were done very well, but I had to cut and lengthen the crossover by about 1.5 inches.

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,563 Posts
I have zero experience with that part or aftermarket headers for KLR's period....though I have had in other applications. I'd be concerned about the fitment, sealing surfaces and finish. Since the Gen2 header is a quality, tubular, SS pce, I'd personally buy a used one of those LONG before some Chinese knock off.

remember that a leak at the header to silencer junction can destroy the airbox......and a hole in the airbox (dirty side) can and will destroy an engine.

2 cents,
Dave
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I have zero experience with that part or aftermarket headers for KLR's period....though I have had in other applications. I'd be concerned about the fitment, sealing surfaces and finish. Since the Gen2 header is a quality, tubular, SS pce, I'd personally buy a used one of those LONG before some Chinese knock off.

remember that a leak at the header to silencer junction can destroy the airbox......and a hole in the airbox (dirty side) can and will destroy an engine.

2 cents,
Dave
As I mentioned before, I'd definitely be concerned about the fitment. But I loved my FMF PowerBomb to FMF PowerCore4 on my DRZ400; however, FMF is a super reputable company. No sealing issues or fitment problems.
I even loved my DG slip-on for my YFZ450.
It's so cheap that I'd be tempted to just try it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,563 Posts
Yeah, FMF is fine.....DG is OK.....most chinese crap = crap. If you buy it, let us know; I'm too jaded to even try after buying one too many substandard, ebay, chinese knockoff garbage parts.....been there, done that, got the T shirt. I'd say I'd never do it again, but the stuff is so prevalent, I'm sure I will have no choice at some point. :-(


Dave
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Yeah, FMF is fine.....DG is OK.....most chinese crap = crap. If you buy it, let us know; I'm too jaded to even try after buying one too many substandard, ebay, chinese knockoff garbage parts.....been there, done that, got the T shirt. I'd say I'd never do it again, but the stuff is so prevalent, I'm sure I will have no choice at some point. :-(


Dave
For scientific purposes, I'll buy one at some point. I'd like to do some testing with one of those "test pipes" and see how it works.
I'd actually be curious how that and one of those Danmoto slip-ons work. There isn't any silencers or spark arrestors on them. Super high-flow exhaust?
I do plan on getting a pumper carb and jetting the thing since I feel like our CVK40's are a bit antiquated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,923 Posts
Daniel Kavcak, you suggest some esoteric modifications of minimal effect, e.g., trick header, upside-down forks, even a replacement carburetor for the "outdated" CVK40.

Just wonderin' . . . what goals/purposes have you in mind? What is your schedule and budget for these (to me) functionally trivial mods?

Nothing wrong with dreaming; just wondering at your actual intent to implement the mods you mention.

If you should modify your bike, by all means share the "before" and "after" performance change with the forum membership.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,563 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,044 Posts
I have zero experience with that part or aftermarket headers for KLR's period....though I have had in other applications. I'd be concerned about the fitment, sealing surfaces and finish.

remember that a leak at the header to silencer junction can destroy the airbox......and a hole in the airbox (dirty side) can and will destroy an engine.

2 cents,
Dave
I believe that Dave actually intended to say,
"a hole in the airbox (clean side) can and will destroy an engine."

As in after the filter foam. Or between filter and carb.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Daniel Kavcak, you suggest some esoteric modifications of minimal effect, e.g., trick header, upside-down forks, even a replacement carburetor for the "outdated" CVK40.

Just wonderin' . . . what goals/purposes have you in mind? What is your schedule and budget for these (to me) functionally trivial mods?

Nothing wrong with dreaming; just wondering at your actual intent to implement the mods you mention.

If you should modify your bike, by all means share the "before" and "after" performance change with the forum membership.
I don't necessarily have a budget honestly, however as I told Dave in the other thread, the bike was only $800, so I'm not necessarily sure how feasible all of it together would be versus expensive it is.

But as of now, I'm addressing the braking with some stainless lines since my lines are totally toast. They push rusty fluid out, even after bleeding half a bottle of DOT4 through the master cylinders.

After that, it's fair game for whatever comes first. I didn't necessarily do a ton of research on these bikes since I knew how loved they were by their owners, so I didn't account for how...uh...pedestrian they are.

I'm used to 400 and 450 thumpers (grew up on ATV's and dirtbikes) and 250 two-strokes, so I'm used to the responsiveness of those. Granted, these have a nice shove at low RPM's, I want to try and figure out if we can figure out a way to make them a little more snappy and responsive all over. I knew there are a slew of braking and engine modifications, but I'm moreso curious if we can gain a better mid to high RPM range without heavily modifying the valve clearances, boring the block, cams, etc.

Then again, I could just be an idiot and need to get used to the bike. Perhaps it will grow on me more.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
[
I believe that Dave actually intended to say,
"a hole in the airbox (clean side) can and will destroy an engine."

As in after the filter foam. Or between filter and carb.
I've seen that happen with a VW I worked on. Guy had a hole in his intake tube (running a KO4, or larger turbo than stock) on his MK4 Golf GTi and sucked a ton of crap into his turbo. The impeller ended up spraying what looked like gravel and mud into the intake valves and locked the cams up.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,563 Posts
I knew there are a slew of braking and engine modifications, but I'm moreso curious if we can gain a better mid to high RPM range without heavily modifying the valve clearances, boring the block, cams, etc.

.
There isn't a bunch of power to be had with the KLR (it has other strengths). The basic mods are:

- really cheap; 22 cend mod and pull the snorkle
- better? KLX kit (eaglemike) and pull the snorkle
- next step - L mod, unifilter, aftermarket silencer......consider the Gen2 header as well

these things will net you 2-4hp. After this you are going with a Big Bore kit (EM's 685 is the most popular) which will get you another 3hp-ish.

After that you are looking at porting, cams, increased compression, etc. but the value proposition quickly goes out the window.

Other than a couple one-off custom BB/stroker setups, the upper limit is around 40 - 45hp.....which is why most people either accept the KLR for what it is and do the easy mods and perhaps change the gearing......or buy a KTM, V-Strom, etc.

Dave
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,923 Posts
Am I the only forum member offended/turned off by the spam popping up on posts nowadays?

Or am I the only forum member whose account is plagued by spam ads popping up on forum posts?
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
8,911 Posts
You should only get the ads if you are not logged in. I will forward your issue to the Help Desk.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,044 Posts
I'm moreso curious if we can gain a better mid to high RPM range without heavily modifying the valve clearances, boring the block, cams, etc.

Then again, I could just be an idiot and need to get used to the bike. Perhaps it will grow on me more.
Can you use a dial indicator and a degree wheel?
Our member, "rebar" has posted that properly timed cams has smoothed and enhanced his power delivery more than all of his other mods, dollar for dollar. He has posted his comment on several forums.

After returning your old cam sprockets for the core refund I think they are priced well. $235 minus $90 core = $145 usd
They are a whole lot more precision quality than a header pipe.

https://www.klrchris.com/klr650-adjustable-cam-gear/

klrchris' personal bike is pushing the kind of hp which you desire.
There is a lot of good reading on his site.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,923 Posts
"Properly timed cams?"

With index/witness marks coincident at TDC (between compression and power strokes), how does one "properly" time a cam on a KLR650?

Jump a sprocket tooth with the cam chain?

Buy a set of adjustable cam chain sprockets?

Degree wheel and dial indicator unnecessary as far as I can see for the average bear with a stock KLR, but . . . reckon I'm unaware of KLR speed tuners' secrets . . .
 
1 - 20 of 44 Posts
Top