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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have for some time been suffering from MBS (multi-bike syndrome), and as I'm both cheap and lazy, I mostly stick with KLRs. Bike shopping season runs from December - March (too cold and damp for lotta riders, Christmas expenses and tax season, Momma yelling at the old man to get rid of that damn bike he never rides). I mostly keep to the KLRs as I'm lazy and don't want to learn another bikes eccentricities.

Of course, there are likely to be some problems with that $400 February special KLR -sometimes title challenged and even the ignition and gas cap are snafu'd from DPOs who couldn't bother with decent maintenance and care. Although Kawasaki will gladly sell you replacement ignition switches and key cylinder for the tank, these are not cheap (well, not as cheap as I am anyway).

I saw some knockoffs on the ebay and even amzn, but was skeptical. Finally found a review that said the ignition switch was okay, just needed to sort out the wiring a bit.

For a modest sum, I rolled the dice and got new ignition switch from an ebay seller. It was advertised as KLR650 compatible and looked quite similar so what the heck.

Here's what that hard earned $24 US will buy you - the caltric model. Pretty sure it's made in CH.





Opened the caltric and compared that to the OEM.





GOOD: The key positions do seem to be identical to the OEM klr part, the connector plug is the same, and both have 6-wires. And on test fitting, the steering lock works fine.

BAD: Wiring is not correct. The caltric does use the same 6 pin style connector, but the wires are in the wrong position. So I then mapped out the connections using the schematic for the switch, and my handy-dandy multi-meter.

To release the little catch pin on each of the connectors, I used the tip of a small cable tie as a probe to gently lift the catch. I'm sure there's a specilty tool they sell for this, but I've also used a paper clip and even a tooth pick with good success.




Here is the corrected position of the wires.



Reassembled the new switch and gave it a quick test on the project bike.

Presto! Seems to work fine.
Bike starts and runs in ON position, horn and all lights work, etc.
Bike turns off in OFF position, and no start, lights or horn action.
Tail light does come on in PARK mode.

NOTE: A word of caution here. The Brown and White wires on the OEM are larger 12g versus the 14g on the caltric. I've opted for a an accessories relay (40 Amp) which will power the headlight, grip heaters, aux LED lights and a USB charging port. But those using the caltric as a drop in replacement are warned that the replacement is less rugged than the oem. Also, pig-tail of wires on the OEM are about 5 inches long overall, however the caltric wire set is about 15 inches, and will need to be tucked in somewhere. Just an FYI.
 

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Good write up. Let us know how it operates down the road.
 

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klr 650 c
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Just an advice, if You know how to solder it is always better to solder old oem wires with connector on the new contact plate. The china cheese wires are good for few years (depends on weather conditions and heat). I have seen wires in cheese scooter (especially the ones which make a contact with water) turn to white dust? If it was real copper they should at least turn a bit green.
 

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Hummmm,
Many people do not solder well.

So I'll ask 'foo', would it have been possible to interchange the Old contact plate with steering lock onto the New key switch / tumbler assembly, if its wires were/are undamaged?

This would give one the Larger primary wire and the proper orientation of connector pins, correct?
 

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klr 650 c
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Nice idea, probably would work if the chinese made a good copy of contact plate housing and everything fits tightly. I agree with Foo that oem stuff is far more expensive than it should be, but than again quality is way more better. If You are good with Your hands You can solve Your problem cheaper if You dont mind spending the time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yes, dimensionally the caltric lock and cover pieces are virtually the same as the OEM. So I swapped the lock and cover onto the OEM base and wire section and these are a perfect fit. So with the ignition switch reassembled with caltric lock and cover onto OEM base and wire section work perfectly on the Gen-1 bike.

NOTE: The height of the lock/cover section for Gen-1 bikes is shorter than the Gen-2 (taller lock section). So except for the cosmetics of the lock setting lower in its mount on the triple (3/4 in), it should work fine for Gen-2 bikes as well.

I suppose the lock cylinder is virtually identical but haven't disassembled that.
 

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i JUST replaced mine with the CAltric model and it plugged right in. Everything works except it wont start now. I dont quite understand your diagram. Are you saying the Caltric brand messed up the wiring and i have to switch it around? Which ones did you have to change? All of them? Why would everything else work then?
 
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