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Discussion Starter #1
Greetings, 1st post.

I got a klr 2005 that's was running smoothly apparently a year ago and bought it hoping easy fix. Nope.

Tank was ........ so I cleaned it out the usual way, carb was ......
so I cleaned all jets and everything else . Petcock was badddd so I bought the new one w one fuel port.

Everything hooked up and she turned over but gas wasn't entering carb. So I took it apart again (accidentally broke plastic of choke port but looks ok...) And cleaned two tiny holes out near we're gas enters above float bowl.

Also covered vaccum port (top) and connected Ted and blue line leaving gas tank together.

Tries to start now and it turned over once and then now nothing! Only a click or two near the starter solenoid when I try and click it.

What could have happened?

All lights are on. I've tried to look near starter for another fuse but I don't see anything like ppl say.

Any suggestions? Very frustrated right now!

Thanks
Psykeclops✓
 

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Dang, dog. You're literally dropping f-bombs on your first post.

If it was cranking before but now stopped cranking, you might have killed the battery. The lights might still be on, even though the voltage isn't enough to crank it.
 

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Dang, dog. You're literally dropping f-bombs on your first post.
Ya no kidding. Please clean up the language. Old forum software filtered that I believe. Will check into it.
 

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A modest proposal: Squirt some STARTING FLUID into the carb when you crank it. If it won't crank, jump the battery with a known hot automobile battery. If it starts on starting fluid, but won't run on gasoline, you have a combustible mixture (as in, carb) problem. Have fire extinguisher handy.

As to cleaning the carb, excellent videos ("Carb Overhaul") are accessible from this website.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Sorry for language.

Thanks for reply. Battery has been charged overnight on tender to full charge (green light). I'll try starter fluid but would that help even if not cranking?

I just don't understand how this klr went from cranking to now just clicking after all I did was clean the carb.

Could there be some master fuse I blew somewhere? I checked the one on the right hand side near coolant tank and also the two fuses near battery.

Starter relay?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Also, there is now no spark when testing the spark plug when before there was. I have many brand new spark plugs. But would it even spark in the test if the engine is turning over? (Only solenoid clicks x2)
 

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Is the battery new or near new? Spark plugs won't spark well with a weak battery btw. Umm, no, starter fluid will not do anything if the engine will not turn over. If you decide to jump it using a car battery, don't start the car please. Cleaning a carb is not a simple job, and since the bike has been sitting a year, it needs a thorough and proper cleaning. As Damocles said..research a bit.

Do one thing at a time.
 

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Sorry for language.

Thanks for reply. Battery has been charged overnight on tender to full charge (green light). I'll try starter fluid but would that help even if not cranking?

I just don't understand how this klr went from cranking to now just clicking after all I did was clean the carb.

Could there be some master fuse I blew somewhere? I checked the one on the right hand side near coolant tank and also the two fuses near battery.

Starter relay?
It's fine with the language before, but keep it clean — the site is public.

You say the battery has been charged. I'm assuming you tried starting it again after the charge, and it still won't turn over. Is this true? Have you charged the battery and are you still seeing the lights etc. on, the solenoid still cicking and the engine still failing to turn over?
 

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The low ampere starter button relay controls the HIGH Ampere relay. One can trade the fan motor low amp relay with the low amp starter relay.

The fan relay is over near the coolant reservoir (above & to the left, tucked in near steering neck), and that was the fan fuse that you tested on the RH side.

A bad relay usually only clicks once per touch of button, but may not distribute power thru the output circuit. If you are getting Multiple clicking from the relay with only one touch of the button the battery is bad or has poor connections.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Where is the low amp starter relay? Or what do you mean by trading? Trading fuses?

Yes to all above, the battery is fully charged on trickle charger, lights are on, solenoid gives one strong click per button press. And it used to turn over and used to have spark.

I have cleaned many carbs before and got both jets and did a good job, could a carb cleaning even affect the "turning over"?

After I cleaned the carb it turned over just once and then went to this silent clicking situation.

Stumped. I have been googling these klr forums nonstop.
 

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Where is the low amp starter relay? Or what do you mean by trading? Trading fuses?

Yes to all above, the battery is fully charged on trickle charger, lights are on, solenoid gives one strong click per button press. And it used to turn over and used to have spark.

I have cleaned many carbs before and got both jets and did a good job, could a carb cleaning even affect the "turning over"?

After I cleaned the carb it turned over just once and then went to this silent clicking situation.

Stumped. I have been googling these klr forums nonstop.
In principle, unless something else happened, cleaning the carb would not affect the 'turning over,' because all you need to turn the engine over is properly working electronics and a good starter. Obviously there are quite a few links in this chain, though. PdW is describing one link: the starter relay. He said that if the relay only clicks once per touch of button, that indicates it's probably bad. If it had been clicking more than once, that would have indicated that the relay was good and you'd need to start thinking about the battery or the battery connections. Since you're getting one click, I'm gathering that PdW's suggestion would be to swap the LOW AMP starter relay with the same part from the fan. He tells us the fan relay is by the fuse you checked. Note this would be a diagnostic thing, as you'd need to replace the fan relay you cannibalized for the starter.

I'm hesitant to start giving you advice about the location of the starter relay because it sounds like PdW is saying there are two relays associated with the starter — a low amp one and a high amp one. This is not something I knew, and I'm not sure I understand what he's saying. But, I'm sure he'll be along tomorrow or perhaps sooner, to drop that knowledge, right @pdwestman ?
 

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Since PdW mentioned battery connections, I'll also ask whether you are sure the terminals were tightened after you reconnected the battery when you reinstalled your carb.
 

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AS THe others have said, make sure you have a good battery. Get it tested at local McParts store. Try jumper cables from a car battery. If that doesn’t work then check the connections from the battery to the solenoid (high amp relay) and to the starter are clean and tight.
And one other important thing: check the ground cables are also clean and tight. Make sure the start button is working by checking with a meter. IF it still doesn’t crank, then you have a bad solenoid or starter. Use a heavy wire to jump from one side of the solenoid to the other. If it then cranks, you have a bad solenoid or starter button circuit.

Disclaimer: I don’t know if your bike has a separate solenoid. I think it does. Someone else will jump in to correct me.
 

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KLRs have a relay to operate the relay, as @pdwestman pointed out.

I prefer that the device that handles the large current of the starter not be called a solenoid, but rather use the term "starter relay". In the traditional sense, a starter solenoid is a contraption that thrusts a Bendix drive into engagement with the starter ring gear. It can be confusing to newcomers. In this case, it is just a big-ass relay that takes a bit more power than the starter switch can handle, so there is a relay to run the relay.
26262
 
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Easy to bypass the Starter Circuit Relay.
1) Make a short jumper using 3 in of 12-14g wire, and two 1/4 in male spade terminals
2) Find Starter Circuit Relay (in rubber boot, left side below Starter Relay)
3) Remove Starter Circuit Relay from boot and unplug from electrical connector
4) Insert jumper between the Black wire and one of the Yellow/Red wires
5) Test starter circuit with Key in ON position, Off/Run switch set to Run, and press Start button: Starter Motor should spin

While this can be used to test the circuit, I have actually done this mod and left it in place for ~50k miles with no ill effects.
Some riders may be concerned that the Start button/switch will wear prematurely. So far, that has not been an issue.

WARNING: With this mod, the bike will start with transmission in gear, with side stand down, with clutch in or out.
Failure to exercise due caution may result in injury or death. Because motorcycles are dangerous.



 

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Re “ solenoid”. Of course, you’re right about the terminology. Old habits die hard.

I’ll reemphasize to check the ground connections.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So the lower starter relay in the boot is good. I replaced it with the fan one to same effect. I bridged between black and yellow/red wires to same effect. The higher up solenoid/relay will spark of I bridge the two terminals with pliers. Does that mean it is operating or faulty?

Cleaned a bunch of electrical connections everywhere and used dialectric grease to no effect

Same clicking noise when I try to start it
 

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If it is multiple clickings with only once holding the button engaged, I again suggest bad/weak/poorly connected battery.

IF it is one single click, use a plastic or wood handle to thump on the end of the starter motor (near exhaust pipe) while holding the starter button. This is testing for worn-out starter brushes.

Is there any chance that the carburetor flooded & is hydro-locking the cylinder? Remove the large plastic screw plug on the LH engine cover & use a 19mm socket to turn the engine CCW two full revolutions.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
It is a single click from the starter Relay and a lighter almost inaudible click from the relay relay at the exact same time. You can only notice the quieter click of you disconnect the top starter relay.

If little Sparks fly and pop when the two nodes are connected w pliers and start button is pushed a good or bad thing?

Beginning to suspect the problem is whatever is not letting the (brand new)spark plug get spark. It used to have spark so I must have jostled something putting the engine back on??
 
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