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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just picked up an 08 KLR and a friend informed me that a number of guys he rides with have complained about Air Filters clogging up after only one day on gravel. He also said that the Air Intake area can get clogged with grit as it is above the rear wheel well. Has anyone experienced this? If so what made it better?
 

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Won't happen anytime soon.

You'd have to be at the back of a group ride kicking up a lot of dust to clog a filter
that fast. The intake on my '09 (same as yours) is well divided and deflected from
the wheelwell. It's been cleaned three or maybe four times now in 5 thousand miles
and I ride thru a lot of crud. That's also riding mostly alone.

I hope a few others toss in their .02 to see the cleaning intervals we all use.


Welcome to the site,
Cheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeap
 

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I don't think there is any downside to cleaning the air filter frequently when driving in dusty conditions. But more to your question, I find when I drive 75-100 miles on dusty dirt roads alone, with little if any other traffic, I start to lose some performance. Dust is dust and clogs any filter quickly. I'm sure I could let it go for 500 miles of dusty roads, but there is no need - she runs better and its better for it when I clean it frequently. I haven't done it yet, but I've read of some folks carrying a clean filter with them in a zip-lock so they can change out the filter in the midst of a dusty day or two. That sounds like a great idea and I plan on ordering a second foam filter for next year's adventures.
 

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Mine clogs up quickly now that u mention it. I HAVE TO clean mine bout every three weeks or 500 miles even if not on dusty roads. Just FYI, U.N.I. has a kit, foam oil and cleaner for 15.00 bucks. Prolly get it cheaper at Wal-Mart but would carb cleaner be the same thing?
 

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Mine clogs up quickly now that u mention it. I HAVE TO clean mine bout every three weeks or 500 miles even if not on dusty roads. Just FYI, U.N.I. has a kit, foam oil and cleaner for 15.00 bucks. Prolly get it cheaper at Wal-Mart but would carb cleaner be the same thing?

No-Toil is the stuff to use for air cleaner maintenance trust me. Works way better than anything else I've used. I bet the vast majority of dirt riders use it.

Carb cleaner will probably eat the foam/glue.
 

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Carb cleaner will probably eat the foam/glue.
I'd bet you're spot on with that comment.. Carb cleaner's nasty stuff...

I clean my air filters with hot, really soapy water. A couple of squirts of Dawn and rub it in and get it good and sudsy. Rince.. Wash one more time and rinse and dry..

Spray/or soak, depending on what you have with air filter oil and squeeze out the excess.
 

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I've ridden in some pretty dusty conditions here and in Moab following other bikes and never had an issue with a clogged filter. Does it get dirty, you bet but never to the point of compromising motor performance. I took an extra preoiled filter with me on my last Moab trip but really didn't need it even after four days of off road riding. For cleaning I will use a little bit of gas to break the dirt and oil then finish cleaning with Castrol Super Clean.
 

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I clean my air filters with hot, really soapy water. A couple of squirts of Dawn and rub it in and get it good and sudsy. Rince.. Wash one more time and rinse and dry..

Spray/or soak, depending on what you have with air filter oil and squeeze out the excess.

What filter do you use and how do you like it?

Also, the No-Toil says not to use with Uni brand air filters so what would be best for that?
 

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What filter do you use and how do you like it?

Also, the No-Toil says not to use with Uni brand air filters so what would be best for that?

Yea the old formula was said to harm the Uni somehow I used it though didn't seem to hurt it.

They have a new formula oil that says it's safe for all type filters : No Toil Evolution. I've been using it for awhile now, works great.

The cool thing about No Toil is that you just dump a bit of the cleaner in some warm water and the filter almost cleans itself! Really makes cleaning the filter super easy. Some people even clean the filters in the dishwasher, not me I want to stay married!

If you've been using another type of oil you have to remove it before going to No Toil products. The cleaner will only work on the No Toil filter oil (say that 5 times fast!)
 
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What filter do you use and how do you like it?
I use UNI and stock.. I switch back and forth, cleaning and lubing one, and sticking it in a ziploc bag until I need a clean filter. Then I can just pull out the dirty one, wipe the mounting surface, stick the clean one in and I can go ride.

I wash the dirty one at a later time, then dry, lube and stuff it in a ziploc bag. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks

Thanks for the quick responses and great discussion. I'm new to this and appreciate the perspectives of y'all. (Even if I'm Canadian can I say y'all?)

Cheers,
 

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No Toil looks like a great deal and keeping a second filter is a great idea as well!

Zin, do you have any experience with those covers?

Paper, how do you judge when to change the filter while on the road (milage, conditions, power)?
 

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I have 2018 klr and going through dusty conditions on TAT trail I would have to stop between 50-75 miles to clean the KN filter. It was so clogged the engine shut done. I was lead bike but it didn’t matter if I followed same thing. Did anyone reroute the air intake from the air box to a more protected area with cleaner air instead of by rear wheel. 👍
 

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I have 2018 klr and going through dusty conditions on TAT trail I would have to stop between 50-75 miles to clean the KN filter. It was so clogged the engine shut done. I was lead bike but it didn’t matter if I followed same thing. Did anyone reroute the air intake from the air box to a more protected area with cleaner air instead of by rear wheel. 👍

Not a fan of K&N's; dubious filtration quality and poor airflow in the KLR as proven in flow tests. Anyhow, you shouldn't be loading up the filter that quickly, especially if you're the lead bike. The KLR filter is sadly very small but all you can do is clean as required. Some have opined that doing the L mod allows the air to ingest cleaner air than the stock snorkle location, but I doubt it makes much difference. If I'm following a pack in dusty conditions for several hours, I will carry a pre-oiled clean filter and swap it out as necessary.....but it hasn't been needed yet. I remember racing in dusty races behind dozens of riders where the dust was so thick you could only see about 10' in front of you........races were about 60 miles long and I only recall the filter getting plugged enough to hamper engine performance once or twice......on a dual sport ride, there is no way I'd stay that close to a rider in front in those conditions.

Dave
 

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Riding the TAT or similar route you would mostly be on the Pilot jet & mid-range Needle of the carb.

If you have richened those 2 circuits inside the carb to try to alleviate trailing throttle after-fire / popping out of the exhaust pipe it is probably running too rich even with a fresh air filter.

I've ridden dusty routes with friends and many times prefer to ride 'drag', in case less prepared riders have a flat or such and have never had to change an air filter during a single day ride. Which for my circle of friends can be a 200-500 mile day of mixed roads. So a restricted air filter would show with poor performance on the asphalt sections heading home.

I prefer Oiled Foam air filters and am one who believes that four or five, 1&1/8inch holes in the "L" shape of the top of the air box allows longer service intervals due to breathing Less Dusty air from under the seat vs all the dust OFF of the rear tire.
 

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Not a fan of K&N's; dubious filtration quality and poor airflow in the KLR as proven in flow tests. Anyhow, you shouldn't be loading up the filter that quickly, especially if you're the lead bike. The KLR filter is sadly very small but all you can do is clean as required. Some have opined that doing the L mod allows the air to ingest cleaner air than the stock snorkle location, but I doubt it makes much difference. If I'm following a pack in dusty conditions for several hours, I will carry a pre-oiled clean filter and swap it out as necessary.....but it hasn't been needed yet. I remember racing in dusty races behind dozens of riders where the dust was so thick you could only see about 10' in front of you........races were about 60 miles long and I only recall the filter getting plugged enough to hamper engine performance once or twice......on a dual sport ride, there is no way I'd stay that close to a rider in front in those conditions.

Dave
Riding the TAT or similar route you would mostly be on the Pilot jet & mid-range Needle of the carb.

If you have richened those 2 circuits inside the carb to try to alleviate trailing throttle after-fire / popping out of the exhaust pipe it is probably running too rich even with a fresh air filter.

I've ridden dusty routes with friends and many times prefer to ride 'drag', in case less prepared riders have a flat or such and have never had to change an air filter during a single day ride. Which for my circle of friends can be a 200-500 mile day of mixed roads. So a restricted air filter would show with poor performance on the asphalt sections heading home.

I prefer Oiled Foam air filters and am one who believes that four or five, 1&1/8inch holes in the "L" shape of the top of the air box allows longer service intervals due to breathing Less Dusty air from under the seat vs all the dust OFF of the rear tire.
Ok. I will run it around in dust down here with the factory filter and see what happens. Dude , I had simple green to clean it and spit water from my camel back to wash it out. I know it was still wet but ya gotta do what ya gotta do. Still a great trip. Thank you for the input. Be safe
 

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[QUOTE="pdwestman,

I prefer Oiled Foam air filters and am one who believes that four or five, 1&1/8inch holes in the "L" shape of the top of the air box allows longer service intervals due to breathing Less Dusty air from under the seat vs all the dust OFF of the rear tire.
[/QUOTE]

Plus there is the capability of adding a charge of methane gas for that "boost" in power.
 
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