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Discussion Starter #1
Hi.
My recently purchased 2014 KLR has an issue with the clutch cable. It jams under the inginition switch as I turn the handlebar from one side to other.

I suspect it was installed in failure. I do not have a shop manual, but I have shop manuals showing cable routing for my other bikes.

The way it is installed now will not last, cable is chaffin and sounds like an old hinge.

Any insight is appreciated.

:meme:
 

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I gotta' ask, did some inexperienced assembly and prep guy at the dealership route the clutch cable THRU the little 'loop' on the handlebar? Instead of the choke cable thru the little loop?

Properly routed, from the lever adjuster to Large metal loop Left of the ignition switch. Over the fairing mount, in front of the steering neck. Down the RH side, to a bolt on loop at the top of coolant reservoir to a bolt on loop at the bottom of reservoir. Under the exhaust and between the Two coolant hoses to the lower adjuster bracket!

Might be easier to check from the Bottom-UP, sorry.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I gotta' ask, did some inexperienced assembly and prep guy at the dealership route the clutch cable THRU the little 'loop' on the handlebar? Instead of the choke cable thru the little loop?

Properly routed, from the lever adjuster to Large metal loop Left of the ignition switch. Over the fairing mount, in front of the steering neck. Down the RH side, to a bolt on loop at the top of coolant reservoir to a bolt on loop at the bottom of reservoir. Under the exhaust and between the Two coolant hoses to the lower adjuster bracket!

Might be easier to check from the Bottom-UP, sorry.
Thanks for the info.

That is exactly what was done (loop on handlebar and rest).

Will correct it as you said. thanks again.
 

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Glad to help. Sorry for the inconvenience / aggravation.
 

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I gotta' ask, did some inexperienced assembly and prep guy at the dealership route the clutch cable THRU the little 'loop' on the handlebar? Instead of the choke cable thru the little loop?

Properly routed, from the lever adjuster to Large metal loop Left of the ignition switch. Over the fairing mount, in front of the steering neck. Down the RH side, to a bolt on loop at the top of coolant reservoir to a bolt on loop at the bottom of reservoir. Under the exhaust and between the Two coolant hoses to the lower adjuster bracket!

Might be easier to check from the Bottom-UP, sorry.
Seriously??? I'm glad I read this post.
I've had my 2003 KLR since 2004. I've ridden it for ~72,000km's with the clutch cable routed WRONG as it would turn out... Mine routes from the clutch lever through the Large metal loop Left of the ignition switch, down the left side by the left fork, down under the exhaust and between the coolant hoses to the adjuster bracket.
When i replaced the cable, both times because it snapped, I just routed it the same way. I wonder if it snapping has anything to do with how it is routed?
Through compression on the front forks, the cable gets squished a bit between my fork brace and the bottom of the faring/steeing mounts. I keep moving the cables to the outside of the fork leg, but it always winds up back on the inside.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Good you finally realized it. From what I know from my street bikes wiring and cable routing diagrams ....( many times after bike going to shops Ifound electrical and other cables wrongly routed. Following diagrams -which I have none for the KLR- I was able to correct it) ....cables and wites have specific routing positions. Cables can peel off causing short circuits,bind and jam as in clutch cables , and mechanics (bad ones) care less or are ignorant sbout the matter Always watch out. Wish I had a source f diagrams like I have seen gor other bikes.
 

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Seriously??? I'm glad I read this post.
I've had my 2003 KLR since 2004. I've ridden it for ~72,000km's with the clutch cable routed WRONG as it would turn out... Mine routes from the clutch lever through the Large metal loop Left of the ignition switch, down the left side by the left fork, down under the exhaust and between the coolant hoses to the adjuster bracket.
When i replaced the cable, both times because it snapped, I just routed it the same way. I wonder if it snapping has anything to do with how it is routed?
Through compression on the front forks, the cable gets squished a bit between my fork brace and the bottom of the faring/steeing mounts. I keep moving the cables to the outside of the fork leg, but it always winds up back on the inside.
Korruptor,
Ya' also have to Know differences between your Old model and the New '08 and ups.

The large round metal loop to the left of your tach mount on the 2003 is for the Front brake hose!
The clutch cable Should pass Between said loop and the tachometer mount, NOT Thru the loop. Then over the fairing mount to the RH side, and down thru the small loops.

And bar risers or taller bars can make all this "null and void".
 

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Did the same thing and crunched it when adding risers. I tried creative rerouting
to give some slack for the additional height of the lever/ cable stay.


As soon as I felt resistance steering to one side it kinked the cable and
started the weak spot for the next failure. Replaced with a longer unit
and factory routing. It's all good last few years, and hopefully a few more.

Lesson learned,
Cheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeap
 

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Not clutch cable-related, but cable-related anyway:

After installing 1-1/2" Eagle Mike risers for my Generation 1's handlebars, at full lock, the choke cable was just barely nudged by the handlebar excursion.

At idle, if the choke cable is just barely nudged on a warm, running KLR650 engine, the engine will die (try it). This effect was most interesting, as in when making a U-turn in stopped traffic on a crowded street . . . straighten bars, find neutral, and start the bike, hoping to escape oncoming motorists . . .

Some minor re-adjustment of handlebar hardware, and the consequent re-orientation of the choke cable, solved the problem. Rather daunting, 'til I discovered the cause and cure of the sudden unexpected flame-outs..

[/Thread Hijack]
 

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Korruptor,
Ya' also have to Know differences between your Old model and the New '08 and ups.

The large round metal loop to the left of your tach mount on the 2003 is for the Front brake hose!
The clutch cable Should pass Between said loop and the tachometer mount, NOT Thru the loop. Then over the fairing mount to the RH side, and down thru the small loops.

And bar risers or taller bars can make all this "null and void".
Good to know. I plan on doing some cable re-routing today at lunch. Thanks.
 

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PLEASE HELP .Feel frustrated! Clutch plates all good, but I have to much cable slack. I need help on a clutch cable route for an 89 klr 25.
 

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89klr250,
I think we need some more info. The 54001-1225 clutch cable is used on all years of KLR250, '85-'05.
So what is too long? The inner wire, and you don't have enough adjuster threads, even with the top and bottom adjusters extended to the MAX? Is your bike missing the adjuster on the hand lever perch?

Or the outer jacket seems to long? Therefore you have a big loop that gets in the way of things? Maybe someone put narrow Mini-bike handlebars on it?
 

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Thanks,
It seems like I got to much cable, or not long enough housing. This is the same cable I always had. However I did replace, the handle bars this year! They are from Kawasaki, and for that bike. I wonder are they shorter, and that's causing the extra cable? Is there away I can re-route I wonder to take up the slack?
Thanks again
Dale
 

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Dale,
Do you still have the receipt for the handle bars?
#46003-1174 supersedes to #46003-1392. Both should be about 855 mm or 33 3/4" from tip to tip. (maximum width of the bike in manuals.)
 

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No I don't, I checked earlier and they 32inches. Matter of fact about inch longer than the old ones since the throttle side was bent. Going to try and re route the cable again this evening. but an extra 1 3/4 would do it!
 
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