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Hellow there. I've got a 2006 KLR650 with 3k miles on it. I got stuck in some mud a few weeks ago and in my zeal trying to extricate myself from the mud by walking the bike out in first gear, I completely and utterly smoked my clutch. Fried it. TOAST! (pics available upon request.

I took everything apart this weekend and I cleaned for hours. It took a lot to get the basket clean. So now I am looking at what parts to order for the rebuild and I was wondering if I could get some help. Here's my list. PLease let me know if I'm missing anything.
1. Factory plates and steels. I'll get these from Ron Ayers probably.
2. GASKET for the clutch cover / side cover. The big one. I imagine I'll get this from Ron Ayers as well unless anyone has any better suggestions. Old one isn't torn, but with the age I figure it's smart to replace it now.
3. Water pump housing gasket. This one tore when I was pulling the water pump off, so it clearly needs replacing. Ron Ayers.
4. Clutch Springs. Old ones have paint or some sort of coating coming off them and they probably got hotter than the handles on the gates of hell when I smoked the clutch, so I figure good to replace. I was going to go with OE from Ron Ayers, but Happy Trails as well as some other folks have claimed the stock springs are a little weak. Suggestions? Thoughts?
5. O-ring that resides INSIDE the water pump impeller.

Am I missing anything? There's that complicated seal / housing thing that the water pump impeller shaft goes through. I've left that alone. Can I just leave that be? No need to replace? Anything else I'm missing?
THANKS MUCH in advance for any guidance.
 

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I'm not 100% sure on what's all involved with a clutch change but have you considered a Recluse clutch at all? If I was in your situation and I cooked my clutch that is probably what I would look at. All depends on the price comparison but I don't imagine that OEM clutch parts are cheap.
 

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I'd never heard of Rekluse. Just did a quick search and that looks to be in the $600 range. Friction plates and steels run about $100 total from Ron Ayers. PLus the cost of gaskets. Honestly, it's not like i'm out racing motocross or something high tech like Rekluse might be in order. I was just stuck in the mud and didn't know when to quit. That's on me. But while I've got it apart, I just want to know what all seals and gaskets and o-rings it's imperative to change before I button it back up.
Thanks much. I appreciate the input.
 

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Looks to me like you got it covered. While you are in there you should clean the oil screen if you haven't done so already. The water pump mechanical seal should be okay. Don't mess with it. If you damage the contact surfaces you'll have a leak.
 

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Oh yeah... I cleaned the oil screen already when I cleaned the coffee grounds (clutch fibers) off of EVERYTHING inside there. It was a hideous mess. The oil I drained out of there smelled like barbeque sauce - no lie.
As for "damaging the contact surfaces" on the "water pump mechanical seal", I don't think I have. I was careful removing the side cover. The mechanical seal stayed in place. It looks to be in good condition just from looking at it....what I can see of it. But I have not inspected it closely or removed it.
Thanks for the input.
 

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Be wary of aftermarket clutch springs; some are, "Extra Heavy Duty." They hold well, but . . . you may need to develop a mighty grip (think, Arnold Schwarzenegger's) to squeeze your clutch lever!

In my view, the OEM KLR650 clutch is rather robust from the factory. Unless you get stuck in the mud again, you may not need any clutch component parts hyped beyond OEM design and manufacture.
 

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DAMOCLES....
THANK YOU... That's one of the things I really wanted to know. I saw some Barnett springs out there but read that they're like a third beefier (210lbs stock to 280lbs on the Barnetts). And my clutch wrist already hurts at the end of a long day. Eagle Mike sells some after market springs on their site, but I haven't heard back on whether they're stiffer or not.
A friend of mine (the one who winched me out of the mud) suggested I just go back with all OE stuff and that's the direction I am leaning.
 

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Thanks for the help, fellas. I went ahead and ordered from Ron Ayers. Parts are on their way.

If anyone sees anything I missed, HOLLER! I think Ron Ayers would allow me to add items to my order if I make those updates within the next 24 hours.
 

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scrabble,
Use some 'emery cloth' on the taper of the Water Pump Shaft to smooth and polish the tapered tip. Use some 'Dielectric' silicone grease to lube the shaft, oil seal AND the water seal for re-assembly. Try to install the clutch cover as perfectly 'straight' as possible while gently fitting WP seal onto the WP shaft.
Use a proper 'low torque value' Torque Wrench.

You could consider drilling a new "dirty oil" inlet hole in the middle of the oil filter cavity and plugging (with epoxy glue) the old hole at the edge of the stamped steel oil filter cap.
This will give your engine 100% oil filtration. The mod may eventually become know as the "pdw oil mod". As shown here,
http://www.klrforum.com/1987-2007-wrenching-mods/15458-oil-pressure-how-much-ya-got-42.html
Primarily post #'s, 413, 415-417, 1st pic of #418 and all of #419.

The crankshaft oil control orifice, PRV mod and banjo bolt mods or replacements can be considered "optional", but the KLR does seem to appreciate them also.
http://www.klrforum.com/1987-2007-wrenching-mods/26490-camshaft-oil-pressure-2hr-ride-data.html
 

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PDWESTMAN...
Thanks for all the helpful tips. I looked over everything last night. At least one thing stumps me and that's the o-ring INSIDE the impeller itself. I ordered a new little o-ring to go in there, but I cannot begin to imagine how to get that o-ring out of there short of smashing it with a 3 pound sledge. But then I would have other issues. :) I imagine it's a matter of removing the white thing on the back of the impeller, but it seems pretty snug and happy in there. I wonder if I'm opening a whole messy can of worms trying to disassemble the impeller. The o-ring that's in there appears to be intact. Perhaps I should just leave that little o-ring alone. How important is that on a 10 year, 3k mile bike?

And you're saying to apply / slather that water pump mechanical seal and shaft and everything with dielectric grease? Basically everything except for the impeller itself?

Thanks!
 

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scrabble,
If you un-screwed the impeller from the water pump shaft, like one is supposed to do, the o-ring should be fine. Been quite awhile since I replaced one, but I think I used a dental pick. Does Not Help to remove the white ceramic / rubber insert for o-ring access. Besides you don't need to replace the WP water and oil seals to do this job. So don't damage the white ceramic or the rubber, can't buy them separately.

As to dielectric silicone grease, a "little dab will do ya'". Thinner coat is better. Oh yea, lube the o-ring also.
 

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pdwestman...
Honestly, I cannot recall if I unscrewed the impeller or not. It was only AFTER the fact that I read that the impeller needs to be unscrewed from the shaft to prevent damaging that insecure, bastard of an o-ring. I would hope that I instinctively unscrewed the impeller when I met resistance removing it, but who am I kidding? :)

Thank you for explaining that I don't need to worry about the oil seal and mechanical seal... I had been reading around and people were going on and on about how hard it is to replace those and getting the new seals to seat. I honestly didn't understand what the heck they were talking about... Then I realized I didn't disturb any of that stuff since I removed both the water pump housing AND the side cover. I admit that I am intrigued by that little mechanical seal since it appears to be spring loaded, but I will try to not let my curiosity get the best of me.

ALSO, thanks for explaining that I don't need to try and remove that white ceramic thing on the back of the impeller. My gut told me to leave well enough alone. Glad I listened THIS time.

ALSO THANKS for the suggestion to use a dental pic. Good thinking.
For what it's worth, I put a tiny screw driver in there and ran it from the front of the impeller to the back and you can feel that the o-ring is a raised bulge in there. In other words, it's not shrunk up and recessed into its little channel. That would lead me to believe it still has life in it and maybe I don't need to replace it. I placed a few drops of 3-in-1 oil down in there last night....just kind of thinking that would help it stay supple.... That's probably wishful thinking just shy of magical thinking.

Thanks again for the help!
Much appreciated.
 

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Thanks pw

Thanks, PDWestman! for the tip on using a dental pic to get that tiny little o-ring out of the water pump impeller. I stopped off at Harbor Freight yesterday after work and bought a 6 piece dental pick set for $4. AMAZING! I was so worried about trying to get that little o-ring out of there, but having the right tool for the job makes ALLLLLLLLLL the difference in the world. Got the old one out and the new one back into the impeller in no time flat. Peace of mind knowing I changed that little bugger like I was supposed to. Got the clutch all back together last night and all seems good.
THANKS AGAIN!
 
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