[MTScott1]

I recently saw a video post by 2TallTim Touring on youtube about bypassing the clutch safety switch on the 2022 KLR. I have considered this in the past but just as needed to over ride a busted sensor to get the motorcycle started in a pinch. Tim talked about changes in the motorcycle response and performance as a result of the bypass.

Video here -

I was skeptical but he indicated the bypass fixes some annoyances with throttle response and idle. I share some of the same frustration with the KLR but I did not know they originated from the input from the clutch switch. I completed the bypass and all I can say is wow. The bike now responds to clutch and throttle inputs more inline with my preconceived expectations. For me this is a big improvement.

After my positive experience I ordered the plug and play by pass from 3D cycle. Currently I have the switch bypassed with a section of wire. The plug from 3D will clean this up and make it very easy to reverse if needed.

Kawasaki Clutch Switch Bypass - KLR650

Once the clutch switch is removed or broken the bike won't start in gear, unless you plug in this bypass. Used if you are running an aftermarket clutch perch and/or lever which don't usually come with the switch. Simply plug this in to the connector that goes (or used to go) to your clutch...

www.3dcycleparts.com

I had know idea the clutch switch input was modifying as much as it does. For me the bypass is a very positive modification.

- Scott

 

[Restless]

Here’s another discussion on it.

Fixed The '22 KLR650's Abrupt Throttle Response

 

[Tom Schmitz]

Paging @OCL to the white courtesy phone...

 

[MTScott1]

Here’s another discussion on it.

Fixed The '22 KLR650's Abrupt Throttle Response

I looked for a thread. I was looking for something named "clutch safety". Did not see the throttle thread. Did not intend to duplicate.

- Scott

 

[Tom Schmitz]

No worries, man! You brought a new video into the discussion.

 

[MTScott1]

No worries, man! You brought a new video into the discussion.

I went back a read through the original thread. So far my experience agrees with the positives listed related to the bypass.

- Scott

 

[Restless]

I looked for a thread. I was looking for something named "clutch safety". Did not see the throttle thread. Did not intend to duplicate.

- Scott

Just added it in case there may be other interesting info to you or someone that may see this thread and hadn’t found that one.

 

[ZZnoTop]

Found a solution toady as the fast idle was driving me insane.
There is a connector under your clutch lever, just jump the connection on the cable end and you're good to go.

This was actually the first time we heard about the bypass on the FORUM. Props to Yackos back in April 🤣

 

[ZZnoTop]

With all of the info being added it would be hard not to duplicate. The info is all good and all of these links to the other discussions helps people that are searching. Let's link them up✌😎👍

 

[ZZnoTop]

And Yackos was referring to a post from 2012 that Tom made!✌🤣👍

Gen 2 Safety Switch Bypass

The KLR has two safety switches, one on the kickstand and one on the clutch lever. The potential problem is that crud may get into the switches causing them to fail, leaving you trailside with a bike that won't start. To get it going again you'll need to either perform a trail-side bypass or...

www.klrforum.com

It's all good info!😎👍

 

[kurtfriedrich]

the plug and play by pass from 3D cycle looks like just a wire? Is it really any better than a simple wire?

 

[ZZnoTop]

My piece of wire works great & a Piece of tape... Lol😎👍

 

[Dread]

the plug and play by pass from 3D cycle looks like just a wire? Is it really any better than a simple wire?

Just a wire looped into the appropriate connector. Easy to reverse, but if you know wiring you can loop it yourself easily.

 

[Reveille]

No wire needed guys. Just slip a mini fuse in the back of the plug where the wires enter the harness side of the plug. Done.

 

[KLR-Mule]

Or bypass all that jargon and connect the 2 wire ends. I soldered them together and placed a 1-inch length of shrink wrap over it. Very reliable and clean way to go about it….but it’s a more permanent mod if done this way. I also removed the clutch switch assembly underneath the lever.

Cost me $0 and has been an awesome upgrade so far, as previously posted on OCL’s thread.

 

[ski9826]

I did mine with a bent paperclip, then used electrical tape to keep the (now) unclipped wire from flapping as well as to hold the paperclip in there. Works fine. No need to buy a spendy adaptor. Also, I'm pretty happy with how it changes the way my motorcycle behaves.

 

[MTScott1]

Any potential negative feed back from others who have completed the mod? After running the bike with the mod for about a week and ~300 miles. I periodically notice a mild deceleration pop. I am running a stock exhaust And no other engine or air modification. It also looks like I might have a slight reduction in gas mileage but would need to run another tank of gas. Might have been a little more ham fisted in the commute.

Anyone else have any potential negatives?

 

[OCL]

My fuel efficiency increased 3 mpg but I believe that was due to freer flowing exhaust and snorkel removed improving torque in the low and midrange requiring less throttle to do the same acceleration. Disabling Closed Throttle Fuel Cut does not increase fuel consumption to any noticeable degree.

 

[ZZnoTop]

Any potential negative feed back from others who have completed the mod? After running the bike with the mod for about a week and ~300 miles. I periodically notice a mild deceleration pop. I am running a stock exhaust And no other engine or air modification. It also looks like I might have a slight reduction in gas mileage but would need to run another tank of gas. Might have been a little more ham fisted in the commute.

Anyone else have any potential negatives?

I noticed with the cheaper gas it has an almost stall while shifting to second or third gear... Sometimes... Before the anti stall would dump fuel so I didn't notice. Now I can see a major difference between the low & mid octane levels. The mid grade octane levels don't seem to stall out like that. I accepted it as how it should be because I know I probably should always follow the recommendation on octane levels🤣👍 but With the anti stall activated it didn't seem like a big deal even though it apparently is. Totally my CHEAPSKATE issues though 🤣. Not the bikes issue 💪😎👍

 

[KLR-Mule]

Anyone else have any potential negatives?

I’m also hearing more decel popping, although mine is probably a lot less than yours with the removal of the air injection system.
It doesn’t bother me, and mileage has stayed the same.