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134 Posts
I wouldn't think octane has much to do with idle speed rpms, more about pre-ignition at high rpms???
Clutch safety bypass = rides like a different motorcycle
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2022 Khaki no abs, Thermobob 2, tusk panniers gen2, modified crash bars gen2, Tusk D-flex, 16t front
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428 Posts
Yeah... I have no idea...? If I use 89 octane it doesn't happen between shifts. It's weird. Our regular is 86 sometimes 85 octane though. I'm thinking maybe it's a little bit harder for the system to burn or predict the burn rate of that Lower octane crappy gas? IDK... I know I'm not supposed to use it anyways but it felt fine🤣. Like I say with the anti stall plugged in it doesn't do that to me with the 86 octane... Granted the damn idle is all over the board with that anti stall so how would I know?🤣
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134 Posts
Did mine today. Couldn't make the min-fuse work easily, so I just stripped some copper wire, made a U and pushed it in. At first it was giving me a bit of a headache; I am now riding around telling my ECU that the clutch is always in - that just doesn't make sense. Then I thought it through, the system does not constantly test if the clutch is in, rather, pulling in and letting out the clutch causes "events" , notifications to the ECU about the change of the clutch state. With the switch disabled, we are not creating the event to tell the ECU that the clutch was just engaged. So the ECU assumes the clutch is not engaged, and now using the lever does not generate an event to tell the ECU otherwise. If it were not for the no-start-without-clutch in circuit, I think we could have just disconnected it. But that circuit is being used both by the safety circuit and by the ECU.
So how do you like the performance change? I really like the slow technical improvement and smoothness.
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134 Posts
Only got 20 miles on it, didn't notice any big change. We'll see.
I’ve got about 600mi on the bike since the clutch switch bypass. Headed on another 300mi ride today.
As previously mentioned, there are more positives than negatives. However, this sucker does LOTS of decel popping when riding in high altitude. I was up past 8,000ft yesterday and the bike was incredibly vocal going downhill lol.
I’m wondering why it’s so much worse with the simple bypass of this switch….
As previously mentioned, there are more positives than negatives. However, this sucker does LOTS of decel popping when riding in high altitude. I was up past 8,000ft yesterday and the bike was incredibly vocal going downhill lol.
I’m wondering why it’s so much worse with the simple bypass of this switch….
Yes, the air injection system has been deleted using EM’s block-off plate.
Exactly. Having said that, the decel popping was minimal even at higher elevation with a functioning clutch switch.
It took me a while to notice...maybe 50 miles. And that was on pavement urban riding. I had to re-check to see if I was imagining it.
The BIG difference became apparent when I hit the trails.
I have a favorite local trail that is single lane, rough, with very tight blind turns, with elevation changes. Suffice it to say I was either in 1st or 2nd about 50% of the time. Not only that, I was on the throttle then off the throttle A LOT. Before the bypass, there was no way of riding this trail smoothly without modulating the clutch. No way! I was jerking and bucking as I went on and off the throttle and I was really hating the bike. So much so that I really didn't want to ride the trail as much. With the clutch bypass, it was bliss. I would shut the throttle to slow down, and it didn't feel like a hit the brakes. So when standing, I didn't have to brace myself for the Jake Brake action! Same with second gear On/Off throttle. Very smooth transitions. I can literally just feather in just a little throttle, if I wanted to. Could not do that at all before the bypass.
I believe folks who mostly ride on pavement and are on throttle most of the time, won't notice much. Also, folks that have learned to just modulate the clutch at slower speeds, won't mind the functioning clutch switch. The being able to start the bike in gear is not a concern to me. I've learned to always check for the N light before hitting the starter, or just pulling in the clutch beforehand.
Was it loud popping?
I've ridden at 5k feet ASL many times already and I'm not getting any popping, just burbling on decel. FYI I still have the PAIR on the bike and is functioning.
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180 Posts
It’s interesting that in the US you are able to purchase such low octane fuel, here in Oz we have only four choices ( that I have ever seen anyway) 91, 95, or 98 octane. I run 91 in the KLR and the Triumph but 98 in the VFR. Not sure why I run 98 in the VFR as I’m sure it would run fine on the 95 and probably the 91. If you choose the E10 (10% ethanol) it’s rated at 94 octane, but I never use it. At the moment we are paying around AUD $2.10c a litre for 91 octane 😢
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180 Posts
It’s interesting that in the US you are able to purchase such low octane fuel, here in Oz we have only four choices ( that I have ever seen anyway) 91, 95, or 98 octane. I run 91 in the KLR and the Triumph but 98 in the VFR. Not sure why I run 98 in the VFR as I’m sure it would run fine on the 95 and probably the 91. If you choose the E10 (10% ethanol) it’s rated at 94 octane, but I never use it. At the moment we are paying around AUD $2.10c a litre for 91 octane 😢
I will suggest that in Oz the government requires the fuel companies to Only post the Research octane number of the gasoline. Which is Always Higher than an actual measured Motor octane number.
The USA uses the R+M/2 average octane posting. Research octane is usually 2-5 points higher than actual tested Motor octane number. So your 91 could actually be 89-86 motor octane?
The USA uses the R+M/2 average octane posting. Research octane is usually 2-5 points higher than actual tested Motor octane number. So your 91 could actually be 89-86 motor octane?
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180 Posts
😔 I won’t say that in front of my bikes, what they don’t know won’t hurt them. 🤫🤭🫣
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