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Could you point in in the direction of this disabling the secondary air injection I keep reading about?
You tube isn't narrowing it down and neither is the search here. Lots of dead links.
Follow this link. I did a tutorial. Scroll down and you'll see it.
 

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Follow this link. I did a tutorial. Scroll down and you'll see it.
Thank you sir.
Great tutorial.

I doubt I'll do the mod, no decel popping (yet). But no lighter and better exhaust either.
If I change my exhaust and experience the popping I'll know where to go. The running cooler someone mentioned piqued my interest.
 

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Thank you sir.
Great tutorial.

I doubt I'll do the mod, no decel popping (yet). But no lighter and better exhaust either.
If I change my exhaust and experience the popping I'll know where to go. The running cooler someone mentioned piqued my interest.
The air injection is supposed to flood the exhaust with fresh air when the throttle is closed to go ultralean and Hypothetically burn off unused fuel. What happens is the oem catalytic converter and muffler also gets really hot. We can thank commiefornia for this gem.
 

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I mean is it improved throttle response, or how "rides like a totally different bike'?
 
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Been wanting to try this mod and very happy I did. So simple, I used a 15amp mini fuse and bent the prongs 90 degrees to plug into the clutch switch connector. I do most of my riding on the street, through urban traffic and on highways and it's made the bike much smoother to ride. Gone is the herky-jerky on off throttle and abrupt engine braking. On my regular commute there is a long downhill on a major bridge that exits with a big right hand sweeper. Before this mod, no matter how gently I feathered the throttle or clutch the bike would engine brake hard on the downhill, then lunge as I tried to transition into the turn. Trying to hold a smooth steady line was really difficult. Today I took that same exit without hesitation or issue. I also found that the bike is easier and smoother in stop and go traffic. Before the mod, the engine rpm would climb slightly as you let out the clutch while in gear. I got used to it eventually, by now without that annoying increase in rpm I find slow speed riding is easier, smoother. Some people have mentioned a lower idle speed but I did not see a difference on my tachometer, still idles around 1500 rpm. What I did notice is if you pull in the clutch without touching the throttle at higher rpm it drops quickly to the point that I thought the engine had stalled. A slight blip of the throttle then bounces back up to 1500rpm. So overall for my kind of riding, I find this mod makes a big difference to smooth out that jerky throttle. My only concern is any long term negative effects it might have on ECU or warranty. Any high mileage 2022 KLRs with this mod??
 

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Glad you like it like so many of us do.

It won't break your ECU. All it does is tell the ECU the clutch is either ON or OFF. Closed Throttle Fuel cut is just an emissions related code in the programming to basically zero out engine exhaust emissions during those moments when the throttle is closed. It does not create any condition wherein the motor is being forced to run badly, nor will the ECU go haywire on you. As a matter of fact, now the motor is running like it should, and not being forced to act a fool any time you close the throttle, then re-open it.
 

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Engine braking is simply the rear wheel working through the transmission and against the natural compression of the engine in a closed-throttle situation. It will have a .00001% effect on engine wear. The amount of engine braking an engine will have will be dependent on its natural compression ratio and its valve timing. For example, the highly-touted but bereft of proof MC Mod involves advancing the exhaust valve timing. That removes a lot of engine braking as a side-effect (while at the same time increasing cranking compression due to mistiming of the KACR).

Engine braking exists in all engines. It is not unique to the KLR except that closing the throttle shuts the fuel off completely, so there is no fuel combusting to help turn the engine over. With carbureted engines, it is almost impossible to shut fuel flow off entirely due to the design of the idle circuit. Shutting off the fuel in the FI is done for emissions and was poorly executed (by all accounts) with the '22 KLR design.

Engine braking was invented by that Greek guy, Thermos Dynamikos, shortly after the Big Bang. Vehicles pretty much operate in accordance with his first and second laws.
 

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For example, the highly-touted but bereft of proof MC Mod involves retarding the exhaust valve timing. That removes a lot of engine braking as a side-effect (while at the same time increasing cranking compression due to mistiming of the KACR).
You need to make a correction Tom. The MC Mod involves Advancing the exhaust timing.
 

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Shutting off the fuel in the FI is done for emissions and was poorly executed (by all accounts) with the '22 KLR design.
This Closed Throttle Fuel Cut became a thing for emissions on bikes that needed to pass the 2008 standards. So many bikes of that era, ended up with that crap and so many of them ran like crap during that transition on/off throttle. I recall, manufacturers struggled with smoothing it out. I recall, my 2007 VFR800 was horrible, until I fixed it using a Power Commander. I also had other bikes and they all sucked like that. My friend's 2006 BMW K1200S was a freakin' beast during that On/Off throttle transition. It wasn't until manufacturers started fitting secondary throttle control, using electronics to smooth out the transition, was it almost fixed. Even early models of the Yamaha FZ09, Suzuki GSX1000S, and others, struggled with this abruptness. It was a hot topic of discussion in their forums.

So it really boggles my mind why Kawasaki did not address this situation in the 2022 update. They knew it was an issue. They know how to fix it, as they have on many other bikes they sell. But they released the KLR as is anyway. :rolleyes:

Oh and now the Euro 5 emissions is worse. If you read up on the '22 KTM 690/Husky 701's that are Euro 5 compliant, those bikes have this extreme abruptness to perfection. Their forums are on fire with it. Owners of those bikes are struggling with it too. Some owners say the bike is extremely difficult to ride at slow speeds.
 
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