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94 Posts
Add me to the list of happy clutch bypass modders. Installed a paper clip for a test run. Game changer for sure, the bike drives like it should now, shifts smoother too. Enjoyment factor increased x 10 fold. I even ordered the fancy $12 one from 3D.

My previous 2020 Tracer 900 had the same fueling issue, even worse. I didn't want to flash, so the solution was a BoosterPlug for (then) $159. It worked pretty well, but depending on ambient air temps and selected power mode, effectiveness varied from "good" to "meh". (but still worth the money)

I'm glad Booterplug doesn't make them for the KLR 'cos I surely would have gone ahead and bought one right away, only to later find out there is this better fix for free.

Thanks for posting this thread! ! ! (y)(y)
 

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2022 Kawasaki KLR 650
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69 Posts
I went ahead and did this mod and do see an improvement. With the clutch lever released, the clutch switch circuit is closed, and when I pulled the clutch lever in, the circuit is opened. So is this mod preventing the bike from leaning out the mixture as I pull in the clutch, or is it preventing the bike from giving an extra squirt of fuel when the clutch is pulled in, to help with drivability? If there's more popping on deceleration, it's creating a lean condition and probably preventing the squirt of fuel maybe. Ether way, it's the kind of mod I like.
 

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381 Posts
I did the clutch bypass but did not gain anything...oh wait I've got one of those antique antiquated carburetors.

Out of my last 9 bikes, 7 were fuel injected. Only my WR 450 and now KLR have a carb.

No doubt FI has a lot going for it. Much more efficient and tunable than a carb. With the right tools and expertise one can finely tune AF ratios to a nat's eyebrow. Adjust ignition timing. Change rev limiter rpm, and the list goes on and on. I miss many of these things but I don't miss having to pay someone $300 to $400 for them to flash/tune my ECU. Plus the added complexity of removing all the additional wiring harnesses and goodies that go along with FI when I need to get to the top of the motor for maintenance.

Sometimes less is more. Especially as we get older and hopefully wiser.
 

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2022 KLR 650ABS
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11 Posts
Thanks for the heads-up on this mod. A quick 25 miles around a couple of townships and country roads with plenty of on/off throttle and I'm a disciple. Totally smooth. Bike is downright civilized now.

I just made a small "staple" jumper from copper conduit wire then wrapped it with self-healing silicone tape. $0.20 and 15 minutes.

Anyone have the part # of the male terminal....just to make a proper plug & prevent the open unused plug from becoming a crap-catcher.

Bicycle Automotive tire Bicycle handlebar Motor vehicle Bicycle frame
 

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212 Posts
The first 2-3k on my 22 had me wondering what was wrong. What needed to do to fix it if anything. High, erratic idle especially intil warmed up. Even after that, at a full stop after sustained speeds it would idle high momentarily. Never bypassed the clutch switch. Fast forward to current mileage at 13xxx and what a tamed idle it has maintained. Never idles up when clutch lever pulled in. Maintains a lower almost perfectly consistent idle. The solid engine braking is stll there which I fully enjoy and rely upon for my mostly street use. Besides being past fully broken in, curious what's changed. Could it be as simple as that ? Time will tell. This should have absolutely nothing to do with the idling, but coincidently after putting on the 16t front, it has really mellowed out even more. My usage is the same. Commuting the same roads at the same speeds (so the speedometer says 🙄). Anyone else experience the same ? I don't feel that anything is wrong. Fuel mileage has been consistent. I've needed to add 4oz of oil once between changes. Still doesn't use any commuting at sustained highway speeds 65ish. Did I get lucky and get one with a low oil diet ? Time will tell as well. I'm still pondering the differences in clutch switch experiences here.
 
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