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I just wanted to point out that you don't need to spend that much money; you can get a DDC kit and an Adventure shock for $838.90 and get 95% of the functional difference as going all out./QUOTE]


You can, but you can’t get adjustable compression damping without it and that was something I decided I needed in regard to my kidney transplant. Truthfully, I really wanted high and low speed compression damping adjustments, but Touratech doesn’t offer that for the KLR. They do for the BMWs though. If they would have made one for me I’d have been willing to put 2K into it, but alas they didn’t have a suitable shock body for it.

I’ll be honest, I have some health issues aside from my kidney transplant. If I want to ride long term, I need to do all I can to build a suitable platform. It’s just money. I have enough to do what I need to the KLR so I can ride for another 10 years or so. Maybe more if I’m lucky. I’m not willing to not ride if the only obstacle is money. What I’m doing to the KLR is not something everyone needs or wants, but it is what I need and want if I’m going to keep riding.


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Understood; you're needs are unique and you don't seem to be overly bothered with budget constraints. My comment was for others reading; they don't need to spend $2k+ on suspension mods to get the bulk of the improvement.

Cheers,
Dave
 

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Ok interesting. You mentioned a Gen 1. How about the difference for a Gen 2 NE? I understand the hard parts are pretty much the same but they firmed up the settings quite a bit. I also realize that Gen 2 NE still have the limitations of damping rods regardless.

The ultimate pro kit is out of the range I would spend but the other one is reasonable for me considering the very low purchase price of my used bike.
The change (stock to Cogent) is still dramatic on either Generation but it is certainly more noticeable on a Gen1 vs. a 2014.5+ Gen2 because the newer Gen2's have much better springrates and damping than earlier models.....as you've said the qualtiy (or lack of) is still an issue on all KLR's regardless or year and the damper rod forks are severly limited by the progressive damping curve inherent in the design. Still, the 2014.5 stiffness upgrades have made the KLR a better bike stock for more riders than it was previously.

I've ridden stock Gen2's and Cogent equipped Gen2's and the Cogent version seemed quite good even compared to my lighter and longer travel Gen1's but to be 100% honest, I didn't put any of the borrowed Gen2's through the same paces that I do with my own Gen1 bikes ( I did ride them offroad though)

Nobody NEEDS good suspension and the value calculation is always a personal one. I know that I would be riding an orange bike if I didn't upgrade my KLR suspension but as an ex-offroad racer, I know what good suspension feels like, I have certain minimum expectations and I ride relatively fast on moderately difficult offroad trails. That said, you don't need to be a pro to benefit from the advantages of a better suspension system. To me it's telling what people say after the upgrade; 99.9% of people are extremely positive about the upgrades and while there is always a certain amount of placebo effect or confirmation bias, the almost complete lack of any buyers' remorse is telling IMO.


Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Understood; you're needs are unique and you don't seem to be overly bothered with budget constraints. My comment was for others reading; they don't need to spend $2k+ on suspension mods to get the bulk of the improvement.

I have to agree. I’d have taken a step down shock wise to just the Moab if I didn’t have done medical issues. The rest of the add-ons to the shock are nice, but not required. These include the preload adjuster and the diamond coat. Although I’d think the needle bearing add-on would be worth it’s price as it makes manual preload adjustments easier.



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Although I’d think the needle bearing add-on would be worth it’s price as it makes manual preload adjustments easier.



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Yes, I did the needle bearing on my Moab which made it nicer to adjust than my Adventure that didn't have it........of course the Pro-Series' RAP is awesome but hard to justify unless you have constantly varying loads to a large enough degree that you'd need to change preload/sag.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Well, it’s installed, but I haven’t tried it out yet. The only way you’d know it is installed I’d from the left hand side where you can see the remote reservoir and remote preload adjuster ...



Sorry for the poor picture quality though. Ambient light wasn’t quite good enough. I’ll get a better pic tomorrow.

It was an interesting install as it doesn’t come with instructions to install it, but there is one video. I’d planned to remove the swingarm anyway, but for those that don’t know, it’s a requirement. As is removing the crankcase breather hose and removing the remote preload adapter from its mount. After that it was a breeze as it only fits one way.

The only change I’d like to make is to rotate the remote reservoir a degree or two more toward the rear so the crankcase breather tube doesn’t touch it. I’ll call Cigent on Monday and see if it’s possible. IIRC the top mount can be twisted a bit to accommodate minor changes like this.

I also checked the swingarm and linkage bolts and sleeves. Didn’t check the lower swingarm people mentioned yet as I was out of time. Did find some minor corrosion on the bolts and sleeves. The lower bolt where the linkage attaches too was very corroded - white - from excessive red loctite. It cleaned up fairly easy though.

I’ve decided I’m going to buy all new rebuild kits for the linkage, swingarm, and lower swingarm along with new bolts and replace them while my engine is having the machine work done. That’s a good use of idle time so far as I’m concerned and the PO over torqued every bolt I’ve touched so I’ll sleep better knowing I’ve got good bearings, sleeves, seals, bolts, nuts, and washers.

I also couldn’t loosen the lower linkage nuts due to the excessive red locktite so I’m now a happy owner of a Dewalt 20v LiIon combo set. It had a 3/8” impact wrench and after a few try’s successfully broke the nut loose. For a minute or two I thought I might have to buy a 1/2” impact wrench or a pneumatic version.

I suppose I could have tried heat, but would have had to buy a torch and I’d already been thinking of buying a new Ryobi combination set to get a couple additional tools. I liked my Milwaukee set - drill, 1/4 impact bit driver, and light - but the cost for that and a 6 1/2 circular saw was almost the same price as the Dewalt set I bought - $499 at Home Depot on sale, regularly $899. I think I got a good deal on the tools so both my wife & I are happy. She got my old set. :)

One thing I really have to say is I’m really happy with the KLR. It may be 30 years old technology, but as I thought, it’s technology I can maintain with my skill set! Yay! I don’t think there is anything on it I will not be able to cope with - aside from machine work.

Oh, I also want to thank everyone that posted for their consideration. Their ideas. And their insight. It has been greatly appreciated and valued.


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Discussion Starter #26
Well, first ride this morning on my way to work. All pavement. Mostly cement strips. Usually the ride is kind of bumpy as the motorcycle hits each seam.

Today though, I didn’t notice the seams. No bumpity, bumpity, bumpity, ride at all. Even the front end was more subdued. I expected to feel the bumps in the front more, but while I felt the road, it wasn’t as bad as it used to be and I did not expect that at all. Particularly as I only changed the rear shock so far.

Cogent did a great job with the setup. Guess all those questions are worthwhile. I didn’t change anything and even the ride height was the same as my stock shock.


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How it's feel drive the bike with this rear shock??? It makes differences???


My Cogent Moab Ultimate Pro rear shock and complete DDC kit arrived today. It was due on Monday. So yay!

I can put the rear on relatively easily over a 3 or 4 day weekend I have coming up. As I’ll be removing the tire, I’ll also be taking the time to service the swingarm & linkage, but it occurred to me that maybe it might be a good idea to also replace the bearings in the swingarm and linkage. My 2009 has 14,000 miles on it. And the All Balls bearing kits are not that expensive. So replace them or just grease them? What would you do?

FWIW, the front is going to wait until Thanksgiving as I’m going to completely rebuild the forks with new bushings and seals. Probably replace the steering bearings too while I’m at it.

Thanksgiving is my projected time to remove the engine for my disassembly and ship out the parts for the machine work. I’ll finish the rebuild over Christmas and use the time between Thanksgiving and Christmas to install a fuse block and wiring for lights, dash, etc. since the gas tank will be off with all the plastic too.


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Discussion Starter #28
How it's feel drive the bike with this rear shock??? It makes differences???

Oh yes! I haven’t ridden it off road yet, but on the slab - it’s concrete in places with horizontal cuts - all the bouncing and jarring was gone. I barely even felt it on the front. That surprised me the most as I have progressive springs on the front and haven’t put the DDC or Cogent springs in it yet. So for the front “feel” to change surprised me.

Progressive springs may stop the front-end dive, but honestly suck as a suspension upgrade. I’ve had them in two motorcycles. One I paid for. This one came with them. I don’t think they are worth the money. Better to put that money toward emulators and better springs. Or a monotube replacement - though I hear they stick sometimes and the warranty is kinds hit or miss. It’s why I went with Cogent instead.

If I had no other option, I’d go for a higher oil level. Maybe a bit heavier. Add a preload - pvc or external preload - or just air them up. The PO modified my Gen2 to support air, but I’m not sure they even work as they held no air when I checked them. Gen1 have air valves for preload as a stock item.
 

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Reading through this article for shocks. Can you just update the front with the cogent kit then upgrade the rear at later date? Will they work together?
 

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Reading through this article for shocks. Can you just update the front with the cogent kit then upgrade the rear at later date? Will they work together?
I see no reason that one can't. My bike has had the Race Tech Emulators and Progressive Springs in the front Years. And still using an OEM rear shock.

All that matters is what works for you & your budget.

I wish I could afford a lot of things, but I usually get by with what I can afford.
 
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