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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I got my 22 yesterday, woohoo!!
I work nights and got home this morning and unloaded her off the trailer.
it was -4°C (24°F) and -9°C (14°F) with windchill. Not exactly cold, but she was outside all night in it.
enough so that the seat was frosty, and such. I did consider not starting it, but my quads have always started and ran in up to -25°C (-15°F), and I didn’t expect an issue.
Well, it wouldn’t even start. The battery didn’t sound like it was new with a full charge, but I’m also new to 650 thumpers.
It started instantly at the dealership, nice and toasty warm, inside. My Engine light came on, and after 3-4 attempts, I left it alone.
Are these bikes hard to start in the cold? -9°C doesn’t seem too cold to start a brand spank bike. I don’t plan on riding in that, but it’s not out of the realm of what I might wake up to in the spring / fall up in the mountains.
I’m always skeptical of dealers and their abilities to set up bikes. Right off the hop I noticed both brake lines not fully snapped down onto a clip. Not an encouraging sign.
I’m going to turn her over here in a bit, now that it’s a lil bit warmer and she’s been in the sun.
The image of the rings scraping the cylinder with molasses oil flashed through my mind. Gave me the whillies. lol.
 

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sounds like you need a thermal blanket for your bike at night, just leaving her out in the cold like that. i tuck my bike in almost every night.
nonetheless thats a bummer. hope you figure out the reasoning
 

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sounds like the dealer didn't charge your battery, put it on a charger.

there's no point starting the bike, especially in the cold like that unless you're going to fully warm the engine and oil and take it for a ride.
 

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You're under warranty; fuel injection, some say, accommodates changes in ambient temperature and altitude. Maybe not. Sounds like a job for the selling dealership (or maybe, ANY Kawasaki dealership).
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So I watched a video with a guy and his brand new 22 KLR650, 2-3 months ago and his battery was dead-ish and it wouldn’t start.
Thinking about it, I can imagine this bike sat in some port for months, and maybe a ship for a few weeks, with all these delays and such.
So the service tech calls me and mentions that the batteries ship dry, but if they sit too long dry, one or more of the cells can completely dry out, and be dead. He said they had a bike with that issue a few months ago.
It had .11,.6V outside. Its Been 1° since I last tried to start it. I brought it in and let it warm up and it went up to 11.9V. I’m charging it now, and they dealer said they charged it. They have to fill them and charge them, and they only had the bike a couple weeks, so I imagine it was charged. Yet I’m sure it does have a dead cell. A new battery shouldn’t be as weak as it is.
And ya I wasn’t starting it just to hear it run, lol. It was supposed to be my maiden voyage. I probably wouldn’t even have gotten back yet if she started.
 

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The dealership is correct, the batteries are shipped DRY with the new bikes.
But the 'tech' is incorrect about a cell 'drying out'! The batteries are 'vacuum packaged'. Nothing gets into or out of them until they are first opened!

Then they are supposed to be promptly filled with acid and allowed to Absorb the acid into the separator plates for an hour and then FULLY Charged with a 1 - 2 amp charger for 4 - 20 hours (depending on size) until an AGM battery reaches 15.25-15.5 volts while on the charger (a flooded Cell, add water type battery needs 14.5volts of initial charging).

Too many dealerships & too many owners (purchasing a new battery from wherever) never FULLY charge their new batteries & they perform poorly & fail early because of it.
Many of them put the new battery on an Automatic "charger" / Maintainer hoping it will suffice.
Which it Can't! Because they go into Storage mode at after achieving about 14.25 volts.

Bring me your mis-serviced near new battery & my old fashioned 1amp trickle charger will Probably Resurrect your insufficiently charged near new battery in 10 - 36 hours for a $5 fee.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
$5? Deal! Great info, thanks for that. My mother in-law has a ‘dumb’ charger. Not sure if it has 1A charging, but likely 2A.
If this battery is already damaged, I’ll be expecting the dealer to replace it. I waited over 2 months for my local dealer to get me a bike, then gave up and went to Edmonton, a 3 hr drive to get this one. Obviously getting them to check and fix things they’re responsible is complicated. Yet they got back to me instantly and they’re not a huge dealership and sounds like they take care of customers.
My local big bike dealership feels like an Apple store. More employees than customers, yet you have to ‘bother’ someone to get anyone to any help.

Anyways, thanks again.
 

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Did you check the electrolyte level in your battery cells?

Just askin'!

New battery with adequate electrolyte content, running the engine for a while oughta charge the battery. Can't start? Jump with known hot (e.g., from your automobile) battery.
 

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Did you check the electrolyte level in your battery cells?

Just askin'!
As I understand it, the 2022 has an AGM battery. Can't check acid/fluid level or gravity of the fluid.

They can only be voltage tested & load tested.

Speaking of which, an AGM battery is normally considered Fully Charged if it can measure at-least 12.8 volts, one hour after removing from charger. And probably Not Less than 12.6 volts after 24 hours!
11.9 - 11.6 even in the cold is way too low, IME.
 

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News to me! About time Kawasaki installed maintenance-free batteries!
But it Shrunk! The FTX9 is to be tested as an 8 amp hour battery!



If it’s an AGM the recommended charging temperature is between 32° and 104°F. Like other modern rechargeables it won’t even perform well outside these temps.
If an extremely weak or dead flooded cell or AGM battery is frozen or slushy, ya' danged right it needs to be thawed out before attempting to recharge!

And you are incorrect about AGM batteries not performing well at below freezing temps, as long as they are of sufficient amp hour & cold cranking capacity.

It is the lithium batteries that don't like the cold.
 

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But it Shrunk! The FTZ9 is to be tested as an 8 amp hour battery!
Fascinating! Generation 1s have 14 amp-hour batteries; Generation 3s have 8 amp-hour batteries. Quite puzzling, because Generation 1s use no battery power for ignition, unlike the latter-day (Generation 2s, and, I presume, Generation 3s) electrical configurations.

What, do you suppose, CHANGED, electrically, between the generations?
 

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More electrical crap to power.

But battery technology has also advanced. The amp-hours tell you how long you can hold down the starter button before the battery discharges, whereas the CCA tells you how much peak current it can deliver to get the bike started when cold. I always thought 14AH was overkill. Save a little cost and trim a little weight by going to an 8AH battery. (Yes, Damocles, I know you know this, but not everyone else does)
 

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I always thought 14AH was overkill. Save a little cost and trim a little weight by going to an 8AH battery.

IMO, my 1987 KLR650 single cylinder engine takes more cranking power to turn its engine over than does my 1974 Z-1 900 4 cylinder engine, even thou the KLR650 has an Automatic De-compressor to assist starting!
My right leg will tell you the same story, as both bikes have Kickstart levers.

The Z-1 has only one 225cc piston approaching TDC of compression stroke per every half a rotation of the crankshaft.
Even if that 1st cylinder doesn't Fire, its compressed air/fuel mixture assists Pushing the crankshaft thru the next half a rotation of the crankshaft.

Both bikes used the same 14L-A2 battery size from the factory.


The 14L-A2 battery should have a Cold Cranking Amperage of about 190.
The FB brand FTX9-BS should have about the same CCA as a Yuasa brand YTX9-BS (for which I have a chart), so the new battery in the New 2022 KLR650's has only 135 Cold Cranking Amps if and only if, the Dealerships properly and completely charge them coming out of the crates (which MANY Won't/Don't!). They need a low amp extended time Initial Charging to achieve maximum strength / maximum life, not a one to three hour 5-10amp 'quick charge'.

(I've been reading this same under-charged/early failure of batteries in new bikes since I joined the forums in November 2009! When we were the local Kawasaki Dealership thru July 2016, I never had a problem charging batteries the full 4-24 hours necessary depending on their size.)
 

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From my above posting, I think it shows that I am.

The starter motor is only Capable of consuming 'X' amount of amps. But I don't know what 'X' is and I have no way to measure it. But the longer one cranks on a starter motor the Less amps there are available from any battery, correct?

Would one be in total error to suggest that we might consume 10% of possible maximum CCA with each 5 second cranking cycle of a starter motor at 0 F? Maybe 5-8% consumed at 32 F?

It may be kinda' hard to find a 190+ CCA battery to fit in the space intended for a TX9 battery size.

I personally feel that PlayDoh's dealership OWES him a brand new battery that has been filled & allowed to absorb the acid into its plates for 1 hour & then Charged on an old fashioned 1 amp charger for about 8 hours or until 15+ volts is confirmed while still on the charger. Allowed to rest/stabilize for 1 hour & confirm voltage is still above 12.8 volts.

They can install his mis-serviced battery into one of their own personal bikes if they can recover it, or not!
 

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I personally feel that PlayDoh's dealership OWES him a brand new battery that has been filled & allowed to absorb the acid into its plates for 1 hour & then Charged on an old fashioned 1 amp charger for about 8 hours or until 15+ volts is confirmed while still on the charger. Allowed to rest/stabilize for 1 hour & confirm voltage is still above 12.8 volts.
I thought PlayDoh has a Generation 3 (2022) model KLR; I thought you said these motorcycles have AGM batteries (no cells to fill, right?).

Regardless, assume his purchase remains under warranty; hope the selling dealer stands behind his product.
 
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