I don't know about that. One day when I was riding in 105F heat, my fan blew a fuse. I didn't know about it until I glanced down at my temp gauge and saw that the needle had risen to the red. (Gen 1)
I don't know about that. One day when I was riding in 105F heat, my fan blew a fuse. I didn't know about it until I glanced down at my temp gauge and saw that the needle had risen to the red. (Gen 1)I do agree with removing the temp gauge.
Dave
A picture is worth a thousand words. A picture with text is even better.So the thermostat will open when coolant in the block reaches 165F, but that's the only limit associated with the thermostat, meaning the coolant temperature can climb from there without reaction from the thermostat. So the stock operating temperature of the KLR varies to either side of 165F regularly, causing the thermostat to cycle between opened and closed? I might argue that because the Tbob includes a 30F higher thermostat, it does raise the max coolant temperature particularly under cold-weather driving conditions because as you said, the thermostat does that. Having looked at Watt-Man's documentation, I deleted some of my earlier ignorance from this post and I see that with the Tbob, operating temp is indeed ~30F higher out of the top of the block and temperature differential between top/bottom of the block is reduced to ~20F from ~40-60F, if his data is to be trusted.