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Just bought a 2008 Klr. On the way home (about 90 miles) I noticed the temperature seemed to be rather high, right near the top of the gauge. Shame on me for buying used and not checking coolant and oil levels before heading off. Anyway I parked it for a week and got some supplies to do oil, coolant, filter and plug changes this weekend. When I drained the coolant it seemed to be more oil than coolant, which was horrifying. I figured I'd flush the system with water before panicking. I started filling the radiator and it never seemed to fill up but it also didn't seem to be leaking anywhere.

I started the bike up to let it warm up so I could change the oil. Had trouble getting it started, no matter what it just wouldn't catch. So I pulled the plug and the spark plug was wet and covered with oil. Now I'm definitely starting to panic.

Drained the oil and before any oil came out some water poured out, maybe about 1/2 of a cup. Oil was milky whitish/green.

Could it be as easy as the pump seals as I'm hoping or do you think I've maybe got worse problems on my hands?

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I will suggest that you have worse problem on your hands.

The water pump shaft engine oil seal is separated from the coolant seal by a void of maybe 1/2 an inch. In the bottom of that gap is a drain hole, with skid plate removed one can see it. So the coolant can't mix with the engine oil nor engine oil mix with the coolant from that area.

Most likely area of your problem is a bad head gasket. You need to perform or have a shop perform a cylinder leak-down test with the radiator cap removed. And then maybe a cooling system pressure test with the spark plug removed.
 

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I will suggest that you have worse problem on your hands.

The water pump shaft engine oil seal is separated from the coolant seal by a void of maybe 1/2 an inch. In the bottom of that gap is a drain hole, with skid plate removed one can see it. So the coolant can't mix with the engine oil nor engine oil mix with the coolant from that area.

Most likely area of your problem is a bad head gasket. You need to perform or have a shop perform a cylinder leak-down test with the radiator cap removed. And then maybe a cooling system pressure test with the spark plug removed.
That was pretty much what I was preparing myself for. If that turns out to be the definite problem do you think it's worth upgrading to one of the eagle Mike kits since I'm tearing it all apart anyway?

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Absolutely!

Confirm the source of the problem. You may have to have both the head & cylinder surfaces re-surfaced. And EM can perform that service as well.
 

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Absolutely!

Confirm the source of the problem. You may have to have both the head & cylinder surfaces re-surfaced. And EM can perform that service as well.
Awesome!

I was kinda hoping that was going to be the answer.

I'm not the most skilled mechanic in the world, is this doable for someone with a minimal skill set and a clymers manual?

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With care and the right tools some help you should be able to do it.
I'm only an average mechanic but I've just got my 2008 back running again after it was reduced to the frame and wiring harness late last year. I was doing some routine maintenance and discovered that the frame was cracked in a couple of vital places.
See my thread 'Swing Arm Pivot Bolt'.
Took my time (after an expert welder did the job on the frame) read the manual, watched stuff on youtube, and now it's back on the road just the way it used to be.
 

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I would drain all the coolant and oil completely, then take off the valve engine cover and flush the engine from the top down, letting it drain straight out the open sump drain plug with a litre(pint) or 2 of kerosene or diesel or some other light oil to remove any trace of water and water condensate, then maybe heat the whole engine up with a fan heater blower or something with every orifice open to evaporate any moisture inside. What you don't want is rust forming on the inside components. Then remove the head and see WTF has caused the problem!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
With care and the right tools some help you should be able to do it.
I'm only an average mechanic but I've just got my 2008 back running again after it was reduced to the frame and wiring harness late last year. I was doing some routine maintenance and discovered that the frame was cracked in a couple of vital places.
See my thread 'Swing Arm Pivot Bolt'.
Took my time (after an expert welder did the job on the frame) read the manual, watched stuff on youtube, and now it's back on the road just the way it used to be.
Thanks for the confidence boost! I'll update this thread in a couple weeks once I get everything done

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Thanks for the confidence boost! I'll update this thread in a couple weeks once I get everything done

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Finally had time to dig back in to this today. I took the water pump cover off and realized the impeller bolt is sheared off. I can't find that bolt in the parts diagram anywhere. Anyone have any advice?

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Finally had time to dig back in to this today. I took the water pump cover off and realized the impeller bolt is sheared off. I can't find that bolt in the parts diagram anywhere. Anyone have any advice?

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Waterpump shaft is a permanent part of the forward balancer shaft.

Purchase a service manual. But this 'cheater step from Eagle Mike' is probably not printed in it.

One must remove both engine covers on the LH side & the clutch cover on the RH side. Disengage balancer flyweights & sprocket. The shaft and RH bearing can then be removed & replaced from the RH side.

Before pulling the engine covers off, you still need to perform a cylinder leak down test & cooling system leak down test to check for head gasket leakage between combustion chamber and coolant passages!!!!!
Just connect the lower radiator hose straight to the bottom cylinder spigot.
 
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