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Parts plus what I would guess to be about a two hour labour job at the shop.
 

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if it wasn't over-torqued (or worse, lock-tited), you can probably loosen it with the springs still in the fork. sometimes a small electric impact driver and extra compression of the spring helps.

then use the tubes like a slide hammer to remove the seals.

if you're not successful, you can then take them to your shop and save that $100.
 

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So with the top nut still in place I should try to loosen the bottom bolt?
Then put the spring and top nut back before tightening when reassemble?
yup, i've recently been doing my blackbird forks like this (same design), chasing a persistent leak on the left fork...

it's been a few years on the klr, 1st time i was successful by myself, 2nd i just couldn't get the bottom bolt and had my local shop bail me out...

watch a youtube video or two to see what you're in for.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I've done seals on my Kwak Z750 years ago and I can't remember what I used to hold the nut but I wasn't careful putting the new seals. It was scratched and leaked not long after. That's why I am not too confident. Although now I know I should put a plastic bag before sliding the new seals.
 

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i like the plastic bag idea, you don't want to nick the seals as you slide them over the top of the tubes, which can have a sharp edge.

i've also used electrical tape.

at risk of going slightly off topic, anyone had a seal failure due to bent tubes and / or a fork brace?
 

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Heck for 200$ you can get a complete other set of forks with good seals. Just saw some for sale in the classifieds...;) With shipping you'd still be less than what it costs to replace just your seals. Best wishes
 

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Last fork seal I replaced I took off the gaitors, removed the clip holding in the seal and put compressed air in the fitting at the top of the fork and the leaking seal popped out. Took the top bolt and spring out, emptied the fork of oil, fitted the new seal, filled oil up, refitted fork leg, done.
 
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