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Discussion Starter #1
So I bought a 2013 KLR in really good shape yesterday with a bad motor. It lost oil pressure and destroyed the head, piston and the upper rod hole dont look good.
My question is: What is the difference between crankshafts of 08-10 and now? It seems they changed part number in 11. I was wondering if the 08-10 cranks will fit right in my 13? I know sometimes part numbers change for very little differences and google doesnt seem to have very much info for me on the subject. I have found that topends are interchangeable from even before 08 to my year. Someone correct me if I am wrong on this. But I can find a used crank on ebay for less than I can even buy a new rod for mine. And I am all for recycling parts if I can. So I was gonna do that but cant find a newer than 11 crank for a reasonable price.
Anyone know?
Thanks in advance!
 

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They use the same Rod Kit #13044-5073 / fits 1988-2015, same RH bearing. They don't sell a LH bearing, cause most can change it.

The 2011 screen doesn't show the Left and Right main shaft individual part #'s. Just a complete crank or a rod kit.
I think they changed the paint color on crankcase again, so different part #. Probably just to keep us all confused!

I see 2 different spacers, outboard of the RH bearing.
92026-1280 (30x50x4) '08-'10 / 92026-0150 (no descript) '11-'15

I see 2 different 'claw' washers, under the RH nut.
92200-1157 '08-'10 / 92200-0557 '11-'15

I'd guess a vendor change for the spacer and claw washer.

If I was buying a used part, I'd suggest interchangeable.

If I was needing a crank for my 1987 -A1, I'd have to risk it. They don't supposedly sell a crank to fit the 1987 -A1. Sold Out / No Longer Available / No Superseded Part #!!!! But they all (1987-2015) use the same bottom rod pin or superseded Rod Kit #. :)
 

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Would it be cheaper (and easier) in the long run to just hunt for a good used engine? I'm just thinking that by the time you source all the needed used parts you might have exceeded the cost of a replacement used engine that runs well. Heck, heads alone are $$$!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hey thank you for the quick reply!
I found the same thing with the matching part #'s on the rods.
I pulled the right side cover off tonight looking for a reason this thing lost oil pressure but I didnt really see anything weird. It had about 3qts of oil in it but I am wondering if I did not get the whole story from the PO. When I got it the topend was apart and to me it looks like he ran it out of oil because everything from the base gasket up is destroyed. He took it to a shop that disassembled it and he told me the mechanic said it was a bit low on oil but not enough to cause such a problem. The whole thing just doesnt make sense. I pulled the oil pump off and it is a little scarred but should have still been pumping. So I'm wondering if he ran it out of oil and when it started losing power and making noise then changed the oil to try and "fix" it. Oil filter was full of metal as well as the oil screen. The thing only has 4500 miles on it though, so its hard for me to believe it ran itself out of oil even if he never changed it in that time.
I dont know maybe its smarter to call this motor junk. I am up to a head, exhaust cam, piston, rod and now probably an oil pump and any other bearings that I havent found yet that were being ran with chunks of oil in them. I can get a pretty new pre-08 complete motor for $1000 off ebay with only a couple thousand miles. Im probably past that at this point just for used parts.
Anyway thanks for the info!
 

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Yup, if he was doing lots of high speed highway travel and not keeping tabs on his oil level he probably ran it out and cooked it, then topped it up hoping it would be ok... (not a chance!)

If you do start hunting for used parts like the head, be sure that you buy a complete head with the camshaft caps as they are all machined together and cant be interchanged from one head to another. Not sure what the current market is, but at one time I saw heads with matching cam caps going for $600 and up!
 

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Are new/ replacement guts available for the existing castings?

Maybe you can put your already bought parts into the existing shell. The cases n'
head shouldn't be too bad off not to be cleaned up.
Just being positive and hoping for the cheapest n' easiest path to running.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yeah the PO lived in a rural area buthe said he had never been offroad. Its a ll highway miles. Guess that's what happened. Ran low on oil and dint notice then topped off trying to get it to fix itself.
With the prices I'm seeing for used stuff I am leaning towards a different complete motor. I was kinda looking forward to putting a 685 kit in it though. If I get a good running used engine, should I just ride it or should I do a 685 anyway you think?
Just to verify: I thought I read somewhere I can use a pre-08 motor as long as I change the left cover,rotor, stator, pick up coil. You guys know if this is correct for sure?
 

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Just to verify: I thought I read somewhere I can use a pre-08 motor as long as I change the left cover,rotor, stator, pick up coil. You guys know if this is correct for sure?
I have read the same thing. Seems correct because of different type of ignition system. But have no personal experience.

It'll give you another reason to confirm or install an Eaglemike Doo-hickey and torsion spring.
 
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................ I was kinda looking forward to putting a 685 kit in it though. If I get a good running used engine, should I just ride it or should I do a 685 anyway you think?............?
If you get a good running engine, there is not much benefit in the 685 other than a noticeable reduction in vibration. I would wait until you wear the replacement out before going to the 685.

You will want to remove the gen2 Air Injection System and plug the vacuum line to it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
If you get a good running engine, there is not much benefit in the 685 other than a noticeable reduction in vibration. I would wait until you wear the replacement out before going to the 685.

You will want to remove the gen2 Air Injection System and plug the vacuum line to it.
Thanks for the advice! Maybe Ill wait on that then. Plugging the vacuum line is no problem. Thanks for letting me know. Guess I'll search for a complete motor, check the doohickey, and ride it then. I'll keep the good parts off this one and scrap the rest. Sad, but its the most practical solution.
Thanks for all your help fellas!
 

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Well wish me luck you all! I just bought a motor from ebay for $750 including shipping. they say it has 3100 miles on it. Looks really clean. Even if it has 6100 miles I'll be happy. I think thats a pretty good price for a complete engine dont you guys?
 

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Well wish me luck you all! I just bought a motor from ebay for $750 including shipping. they say it has 3100 miles on it. Looks really clean. Even if it has 6100 miles I'll be happy. I think thats a pretty good price for a complete engine dont you guys?
That's a great price! Heads alone can cost close to that in these parts. Did the seller say it was a good runner?
 

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He said it was in good working condition. Has 99.8 positive feedback out of 4400 transactions. Seems OK to me. He had it listed for 1000 on eBay with a "make offer" button. I figured what the heck, worst he could say is no, so I offered 750 figuring he would counter, but he took it. I hope it runs OK. Kinda scary sending money like that and just trusting all is good. Wish me luck!
 

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Here's wishing you GOOD LUCK!

Sorry, I couldn't find the 'Cheer with a Beer' icon.
Good Luck.
 
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