Kawasaki KLR650 FULL Body crash bars, POWDER-COATED. Fits 1987-2007 2007 and earlier KLR650 crash bars. POWDER-COATED FINISH. Includes durable, high quality, chip resistant electrostatic coating! Heavy Duty, hand crafted in Canada from 1 inch steel tubing. Not imported. Simple Bolt-on...
Kawasaki KLR650 standard crash bars, Fits 2008-2018, UNPAINTED. Heavy duty standard crash bars for 2008-2018 KLR650 Hand-crafted in Canada, made from 1 inch steel tubing. Not imported. Protects your engine and radiator, will not interfere with your legs. UNPAINTED, as seen in first picture...
A Givi crashbar cage popped up on my facebook for $50 within 50 minutes ride from me:
With the crashbars on a KLR, either Gen1 or Gen2, They basically attach in two places; the subframe bolt behind the engine, and the top of the skidplate to the frame in front of the engine. Attaching at only two points the assembly is strength compromised before you even drop the bike. Three points forming a triangle would make it much stronger. There are lots of accounts of crashbar cage bending, and causing trouble being bent and squashing something.
The Dirtracks full-body crashbar cage (that I did not buy) has a bar that goes up under the headlight and across to the other side, thus bracing one side to the other and thus it would probably be quite a bit stronger. Plus all that steel pretty much cages around the whole bike.
If you look closely at the pic of that used Givi crashbar cage, you can see the brackets of the bar that go from one side to the other to the rear of the cylinder just underneath the carb. The side-to-side bar is missing from the photo, but by the brackets you can see where it goes. Thus bracing one side to the other and adding strength. The other thing about the Givi bar is the contiguous tube going across the front, which would be stronger than bolted and bracketed tubing joined at that point of the frame. The Givi crashbar cage being all in one piece, I have no idea how you get it wrapped around the bike, do you take the bike apart and reassemble it inside the cage? Go to the Givi site and download the instructions for the 2008-2018 carshbar cage, it can't be that hard or no one would buy them.
In looking around for a crashbar cage for my 2008, I too found that the information from the "buy me" sites about any/all crashbar cages was sketchy at best. How do they mount? How heavy are they? What is the wall-thickness and steel composition of the tubing used? For Gen1 does the hardware kit provide for drilling out the subframe bolt for the use of a larger diameter mounting bolt?
Based on my looking at closely and carefully in person, and meeting and talking to the owner and installer of the Dirtracks crashbar cage, that is the one that I purchased.
The next-best thing to actually looking at a crashbar cage yourself, is to query those who have them to find their actual experience. Making a decision about which one based only on what you can find from the "buy me" sites would be a crapshoot at best.
A Canada Post snail has my Dirtracks crashbar cage strapped to its back, and is on its way to me. When the snail gets here, I will post my findings.
The snail caravan finally got my DirtRacks crash bars for my Gen2. Quite heavy duty. Thick steel mounting brackets, good quality welds, ground, polished, and clean ready for paint. Yes- I cheeped out and got bare steel instead of the extra $30 for powder-coating. Painted them with primer then bedliner and installed. Sturdy stuff. Quick easy install. The only - very tiny - annoyance is the bolts they supply, they have 13mm heads and nuts. As I recall, the 8mm bolts on this bike are 12mm heads and nuts. Thus more items in my tool kit. Either that, or get bolts with socket-heads, thus nullifying the hardware supplied by DirtRacks. The fit of the bars to the frame is perfect. Put the rear subframe bolt in loose, and the other two front mount bolts line up perfectly. No prying or forcing or bending necessary. Really first-rate. Raining like crazy today, my shop is not good for photos. Will post photos next time its outside.
13mm is standard for m8 bolt here in EU, Japan bolts usually have 12mm heads, as You said it is one more socket or wrench in inventory, or buy the bolts with 12mm heads, or go allen head all the way around the bike, which I personaly hate when they rust inside of the head.
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