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Discussion Starter #1
I ordered a magnetic drain plug, figuring it couldn't hurt to remove iron-based grit from the crankcase. The plug came with a crush washer--not reuseable. Can't find replacement crush washers online. Does anybody know of a source of replacement crush washers? NAPA or Carquest, maybe? It's 260 miles, round trip, to the nearest motorcycle dealer, so not really a viable option for a .25 cent part. Can I just use the stock washer that came with the KLR? New bike--First oil change, so I haven't seen the stock washer, yet.

Coyote
 

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Napa or any car parts store will have aluminum or bronze crush washers. My only problem is that I don't know what size to tell you.. I bought a box of them a long time ago and I don't remember what size they are..
And now I'm sitting in a hotel room in Vicksburg, MS, a long ways from my motorcycle and toolbox..
 

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Thanks, guys! I will be making a run into Plentywood this afternoon and will stop by the NAPA store. See if they have that size.

Vicksburg, MS? Lots of Civil War history to be found in that neck of the woods! I would enjoy that.

Mark
 

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Just an FYI, in my experience you can reuse the crush washers over and over again.
We rarely need to change them.
 

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Kent, that depends on the type of washer right? I use hollow copper ones and once they are crushed, they are CRUSHED...like a sheet of paper. I assume you are using washers like the stock ones?
 

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I've been known to reuse them a few times. Usually I'll flip the washer when I reuse it, and when it's getting thin, I pitch it.. I'm a KLR rider, so I'm cheap.. :)
 

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Cool, that's what I thought Kent...just wanted to clarify for all the folks out there. ;) I like the copper ones...they're pretty. And I bought like 100 of them so they were pretty cheap.

The only time I tried to reuse one of the OEM ones, I stripped my shit. Totally unconnected, but I feel cursed now. :18: And I have a crapload of the hollow copper ones.

Coyote, I would have offered to send you some of the ones I have, but they aren't the right size cause I have a sawed off iron bolt as a drain plug. Very KLR.

BTW, Mrs Lockjaw uses KLR as an adjective for any cheap fix now. :16a: And a verb: "Ah, just KLR it." :16a:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well, I did the first break-in oil change at 260 miles. Keeping the rpm's below 4,000, per owner's manual. Drained the oil and pulled the filter.

Yikes! The filter looked like someone had been running a machine shop in there, with all the metal grit that the filter caught.

Glad I got that magnetic plug. Went to CarQuest and picked up some washers. Also got a dedicated set of metric sockets and combination wrenches. Separated out all my metric and SAE and put them in separate tool boxes. Never hurts to have tools organized for maintenance.

Very pleased with how easy everything on the KLR is to access, so far.

Changed the oil and filter, checked bolt tightness everywhere, lubed the chain, WD-40 on the cables. Took maybe 45 minutes!

Plan next oil change for 1,000 miles, then 2,000. After that, switch to synthetic and change about every 2,000. Hopefully, the oil filter will start showing up a lot cleaner.

BTW, the Fram filters are now marked "Made in Korea". Used to be Canada.

Mark in Montana
 

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Mark -

You may find it worthwhile to go online and buy a case of Emgo filters and just stock them up. Emgo is a fairly major filter manufacturer in Taiwan. I believe they make a lot of the Pac Rim OEM stuff. Their own brand is pretty good, and economical by the case.

Another good filter is the NAPA, which is made (in the US, I believe) by Wix. You can buy Wix by the case on line, as well.

Tom
 

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Good call, Tom. I have a case of the Emgo filters on Paper's recommendation, and they are nice and absurdly cheap when purchased in bulk.
 
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